GENorkus wrote:
Generally it's desired to find a photographer that has an acceptable style you like. Even if some people steal photos, why would you not put your work up to show?
Lets say, the photographer knowingly used "free" photos on the webpages that is not theirs. Someone loves the style the website portrays and hires you. After receiving the prints they are disturbed at them.
Whats to say that the website is not misleading and a legal hassel brewed from it.
Has this world gotten to the point that nobody cares?
Generally it's desired to find a photographer that... (
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I agree, a photographer should not use stock photos as examples of their own work.
Also one of my pet peeves is photographers using other people's photos for their avatars on this site, after all this IS a photography forum.
BobHartung wrote:
Everyone needs to try reading the #%&(!@#$ manual just once.
And what #%&(!@#$ manual are you suggesting?
Canoe50d wrote:
can and will admit some of you or most have lost me with your responses. Am I reading that when I edit, I need to know what size Im going to want to print?? When I offer the photos for sale, the options of size offered is many. I can't know what size they will want when I post them. I shoot with full frame and crop cameras, does that effect me ? I see that in LR CC I can pick size when I export. If I size for 8x10, does that mean they wont be able to click on 4x6 or 5x7 ? My fear as I learned yesterday that when they click buy, and choose size it shows them what the photo will look like with red lines showing the crop. Assuming they do and part of the photos or person in the photo is cut off they might not buy and just move on and not contact me =lost sales without knowing why. Is there anyway to insure that all sizes will work ??? thanks
can and will admit some of you or most have lost m... (
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First cropping and resizing or sizing are two different things.
If you want to sell on zenfolio or any other site and want to offer different formats, (4x6-5x7-8x10) etc. then you should CROP NOTHING, RESIZE NOTHING and give them the full file. Then your clients can choose whatever format (size) they want and Zenfolio will show them what the crop will look like.
Every time that you change the aspect ratio something is going to get crop off. So let the customer do the cropping so that photos only get cropped once. Also it helps to shoot a little "loose" to allow for some cropping or matting.
ps. As I was typing other have given the same advice.
jerryc41 wrote:
Sorry about that. Why would someone make a video, post it, and then make it private?
Because it was a crap video. Complete with misinformation on using a blower to clean the sensor.
The canon 1DX and Nikon D3X and the like are much more capable to use "very" high ISO with very little noise. That's why people pay six thousand dollars for a camera with a relatively low pixel count.
dmeyer,
The late moon sets that you quoted do not give you much dark time to shoot stars. You also quote that twilight is at 6:30 am, 6:30 am is dawn, sun light, and probably lots of it. You would be best to try when there is a "new" moon, meaning no moon. or at least a late rising moon. As to the location of the Milky Way, you live in the Milky Way, so just look up on a dark and clear night and you will see it:)
oneillj
If you have an Ikea store close by they sell a black glass table top. Having it ship will cost a bunch but if you can pick it up, that may be your best option. I my self use a window from an old storm door, covered the back with black background paper it is about 24x60 inches, or a old mirror that I got from somewhere? about 30X30 inches. Although, the trouble with the window glass and mirror is that it creates a double reflection, but the price was good.
As for what size you will need all depends on what size object you are shooting. Some times all you will need is a 12x12 inch black marble floor tile.
If you want to see an example of objects shot on the storm door window you can go to my smugmug site and look in the musical instrument alblum.
jerryc41 wrote:
I have a basic Skil router and a basic Skil router table. I'm trying my hand at making picture frames, and I realize that, just like in photography, better tools make the job easier and the results better. I'm thinking about getting a new router and router table. The one that gets high marks is the Bosch RA1181.
http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000H12DQ6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1K6S0U4KGY5NH&coliid=IRES51BVRLS2R&psc=1#Ask
I'd also like a better router, one that lets me adjust height of the cutter from the top of the table, rather than having to reach below. I've read lots of reviews, but the reviews and the specs don't always mention above-table adjusting. And, of course, the router must be compatible with the Bosch table. I'd prefer not to spend much more than $150.
So, if you have any router advice to pass along, I'd be glad to hear it.
I have a basic Skil router and a basic Skil router... (
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You may want to make your own router table. A scrap or "surplus" counter top works great. There is a company called Eagle America, they sell router accessories, extra thick bass plates, longer screws, height adjuster knobs etc. and of course router bits.
Have fun:)
Bird Lover wrote:
??? What am I not understanding ? The lens on this Sony is a 50X zoom. Very short focal length??
50x zoom in not the focal length.
our camera has a
ZEISS® Vario-Sonnar® T* Lens
F-number (Maximum Aperture) F2.8 (W) - 6.3 (T)
Focal length of 4.3-215 mm
It seems that this thread has gotten a bit off the subject (funny,that's never happened before)
Your original question was about the changing aperture. Your lens has a MAXIMUM aperture of 2.8 at the wide, (short) end and an MAXIMUM aperture of 6.3 at the telephoto,(long) end. So if you have your camera set at 2.8 at the short end , then zoom to the long end your aperture will change. It is what it is, there in nothing wrong with your camera. I would like to point out that this variable aperture thing has been answered by several other people on this thread.
THEN, someone made the comment about not getting a shallow dof because of the small sensor. I just pointed out that it is not so much the small sensor size but the short focal length of the lens (4.3mm is pretty short). Of course, you never asked about dof ,and, not being able to get a super shallow dof is not always a disadvantage.
Your camera has a Zeiss lens and gets good reviews as far as "super Zooms" go,it is probably as good if not better than other "super zoom" cameras.
Happy bird shooting:)
Perhaps the op is referring to the Behance app that comes included with photoshop cc.
http://helpx.adobe.com/creative-cloud/kb/behance-integration-faq.html
It is not so much the small sensor, but the very short focal length lens that accompany small sensor cameras. I am talking about the real focal length not the "35mm equivalent"
DOF is a product of focal length, aperture and distance to subject. Kind of like, "The DOF triangle":)
TriX wrote:
Ouch! If you had it repaired, do you mind me asking the cost to repair?
It cost me 125.00 plus my shipping.
amfoto1 wrote:
Heck, I'm Scottish... and even I'm not that cheap! :roll:
Good fitting, permanent lens hoods typically ain't all that expensive!
Well, except for the carbon fiber hoods for my 300/2.8L and 500/4L that cost $450 or more apiece.
I also balk at the $45 to $55 apiece they want for the OEM EW-72 and EW-65B hoods for the EF 35/2 IS USM and 24/2.8 IS USM lenses. Thankfully there are now cheaper third party clones of those ($13 to $15).
But I also doubt a paper lens hood would provide much physical protection for the lens against bumps and bruises... the way rigid, high-impact plastic ones do.
Heck, I'm Scottish... and even I'm not that cheap!... (
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Well I guess the Irish must be cheaper than the Scottish:)
Of course a paper lens hood would provide no physical protection for the lens against bumps and bruises, just thought it mite be a fun "project" for the op. and, as you pointed out some of the OME lens hood can start to add up to some real bucks.