To Gene51: The print adjustment is "brightness" in the Lightroom front module. To my eye, a +30 brightens the print about a third of a stop. Most descriptions call it a tool of last resort. That's why I suspect it's a bad thing. Thanks for your detailed reply. A lot of food for thought there.

I've calibrated my monitor by trial and error with pretty good results. In Lightroom, I need to bump up the print adjustment to +30, and I suspect the colors might be a little less vibrant than they could be. But, the print is really close to the monitor image. Close enough that I can adjust from a test print and be very happy with print #2. Softproofing doesn't help or hurt, especially with reds -- if it's out of gamut, HSL adjustments don't pull it fully back into range. Seems to me, the LightRoom +30 print adjustment is a bad thing that I need to get away from.

So, the question is: Do I need to buy a calibration system? The reviews for Spyder and ColorMunki seem to say that getting close is all you can expect. Well, I'm already close, even though I'd like to be closer.

But, I don't trust online reviews, either. Maybe the software really does suck, or maybe the reviewer was well into his third Scotch, or maybe it's a competitor in disguise. I'd trust you guys more.

For those who care, Windows 10, Epson Artisan 1430. Dell SE2416H. Room is adjusted to 5000K light. Red River Paper with ICC installed ( but Epson Paper ICC also needs a +30-35).

Thanks for any thoughts.

Merlin1300 nailed it. These records were broadcast over the post loudspeaker system before they went to tape then digital. Most Army installations still play calls during the day. Nice touch of nostalgia. Back in the day when there was an actual post bugler, the calls were used for all activities from wake up to meal time to water your horse time to get out of the bars time. Lots of Cavalry troops got injured because the horse knew the bugle commands better than the rider and would respond to the command, often leaving the unprepared trooper with no horse under him.

Anybody know of a good guide for this flash and it's 622 controller? The pigeon English in the manual is frustrating. Questions range from basics (What are the two included cables that don't appear to do anything) to advanced multi-flash capabilities. I've got it working well on and off camera, but neither Mr Google or Mr YouTube have anything past basic use.

As for the manual, things like "When loosing the button, the groups have been selected of flash will be tested for once" makes my head hurt.

Maybe this explains why my insurance dropped CVS a few months back.

Thanks, all. I'll tell the store you sent me.

Spending a few days in Chicago, in the Lombard area. It would be fun to visit a good photo store. I see Helix Photo is nearby. Does anybody have experience with it, or are there other recommended shops?

Thanks for any advice.

In regard to Melk Abbey photo rules: I was there just two weeks ago and the chapel and some other rooms were prohibited. The guide always told us where it was OK and where it was not, and the chapel was clearly marked. Shame about the chapel -- only a novice would use flash, but we all pay the price.

To my mind, the question is how much time will you spend in Prague and Budapest. For the "tour" part (hopping on and off the boat), you will probably be happy with a good pocket camera, something wide to normal range. But the cities are fantastic and you'll want to roam after the other tourists are in bed with the best equipment you have. Also remember many indoor locations don't allow photography (Melk Abbey is a good example). So, for me, the big camera stays home unless there are free days scheduled in the cities. Then it's worth toting along the wheelbarrow.

Also, check your print quality (in the driver). I get the lines if I print from a "non-photo" setting. They go away when using "photo" or "best photo" quality.

I bought a used one from B&H, came in perfect condition, focus and sharpness is dead-on with my D7200. Highly recommended. I assume (yeah, I know), since you only want to carry one lens, you will not be dragging around a tripod or a good monopod. If so, you might want to think about including something small and fast since the Tamron only opens up to 3.5. I travel with the D7200 and a fast pocket camera (RX100 iii). Both usually get a workout.

Also, just to nit-pick, the Tamron is not quite a true macro (close, though). Enjoy your trip!

After four river cruises, I've learned that my best camera support is my left forearm (I'm a righty). Tripods are nearly useless during the day - if on a tour, your guide will move to fast for you to set up; if in a town, too many people; if in a building, most places don't let you use them. Your left arm is always with you, just find something to lean on or against. I still travel with a cheap monopod I bought decades ago that can convert to a tabletop tripod, primarily for night shots or long zoom shots, but even that gets little use. On those rare occasions where you need absolute support, there is usually something around to put the camera on and use the timer delay.

But, that said, if anything is worth the hassle of carrying a tripod, it would be Prague, along the river, at midnight or dawn.

With most of my cameras, I see a huge difference between raw and jpeg once I get them into Lightroom, except for a travel camera, the ZS50. Even at 100% zoom, the images appear almost identical. Interesting.

Here's a tip: The monopod I travel with looks like a pipe bomb under the security scanners. After several delays, I've learned to put it out in the open, right next to my shoes and other dangerous articles.

Thanks Linary and N4646W, that seems to have done the trick. Who do I send the check to?