Has this happened to you?
I've had my Canon EOS R since they were first released. I had upgraded from my beloved 6D Mark I. For too many months I've been lusting over the R5 and R6 and often even wondered if I should have bought the 5DIV instead of the R.
However I've come to realise what a terrific and tough camera the R actually is - fantastic image quality, feels like a pro camera, so far has worked impeccably and has been a reliable workhorse for my real estate work. Believe it or not I actually love this camera and I no longer lust for any other camera. I'm saving my GAS for lenses instead.
Am I mad or have I come to my senses? Have any of you come to a similar conclusion my friends?

Longer macro lenses like 150mm, 180mm and 200mm give you more working distance, but are more difficult to hold steady and render shallower depth of field, which is already in short supply at high magnifications. As a result you have to stop down the longer lenses more, which in turn means slower shutter speeds or higher ISOs. There's a reason 150mm, 180mm and 200mm macro lenses come with a tripod mounting collar!

So, again, in my opinion for general purpose macro a good compromise is the 90 to 105mm range. That still gives you quite a few to choose among. The video linked in this article doesn't cover them all, but might help with some of the choices (a couple lenses in the comparison aren't an option for use on a Nikon camera, and one is manual focus only): https://petapixel.com/2020/04/15/macro-lens-test-canon-nikon-sony-laowa-sigma-and-tamron-compared/

To me the Sigma 105mm seems the best value. It used to be the most expensive, but the price was reduced significantly within the last year. Now at $570 it's nearly $330 less than the Nikkor 105mm. And the Sigma has among the best images quality and a full set of features.

At $429 the Tokina ATX-i 100mm is the least expensive true macro lens with auto focus available. It's a pretty good lens, with a couple quirks. For one, the Nikon mount version of it doesn't have a built-in focusing motor. As a result, on some Nikon cameras it's manual focus only. This isn't a problem with your D750, because that has the in-body focusing motor for lenses of this type (which also include the Nikkor AF 200mm f/4 and the Nikkor AF 60mm f/2.8D). While this won't effect your use of the lens, it may effect the resale value of the lens should you ever decide to sell it.

Another "quirk" of the Tokina 100mm is that it uses a "focus clutch" mechanism. The entire focus ring is slid forward or backward to switch from manual to auto focus. When it's set to the AF mode, you cannot override and tweak focus manually. You have to first shift it into MF mode. This is not the case with the Nikon AF-S, Tamron USD and Sigma HSM lenses.... all of those allow manual tweaks to focus while still set to AF mode.

Finally, the Tokina 100mm and a couple other lenses are not internal focusing. This means they increase in length when focused closer, which may reduce working distance between the front of the lens and your subject. Other macro lenses that aren't internal focusing include the Nikkor 60mm f/2.8D (but the AF-S 60mm f/2.8G is internal focusing). The older, less expensive non-VC, non-USD version of the Tamron 90mm also was not internal focusing.

Like all lenses, the specification of macro lenses list a "minimum focus distance", but this isn't the same as "working distance". MFD is the distance from the film/sensor plane to the subject when the lens is set to it's closest possible focus. With non-macro lenses this is fine... but with macro lenses those distances are pretty short so it can be significant that some of the MFD is occupied by part of the camera (approx. 1.75") and by the lens itself. When a lens extends a lot at MFD, it occupies more of that space.

Working distance has to be calculated deducting the length of the lens and part of the camera from MFD. What remains is the distance from the front of the lens and the subject at maximum magnification. (Without a hood or any other accessories installed on the lens.)

Price, MFD and approx. working distance for some of the popular options (least to most expensive):

Tokina ATX-i 100mm f/2.8.... $429.... 11.81" MFD... 4.09" working distance.
Sigma 105mm f/2.8 OS HSM... $569... 12.28" MFD... 5.26" working distance.
Nikkor AF-S 60mm f/2.8G... $597... 7.2" MFD... 1.95" working distance.
Tamron 90mm f/2.8 VC USD... $649... 11.81" MFD... 5.15" working distance.
Nikkor AF-S 105mm f/2.8 VR... $897... 12.01" MFD... 5.39" working distance.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/products/SLR-Camera-Lenses/ci/274/N/4288584247?sort=PRICE_LOW_TO_HIGH&filters=fct_a_focus-type_5738%3Aautofocus%2Cfct_lens-format-coverage_3332%3Afull-frame-lenses%2Cfct_lens-mount_3442%3Anikon-f%2Cfct_special-designs_3320%3Amacro

There are other things to consider, such as whether or not a lens has a focus limiter. Macro lenses need to move their focusing groups a long, long way to go from infinity to 1:1 magnification a few inches in front of the lens. Also, most macro lenses use a "long throw" focus design that emphasizes focus accuracy over focus speed. The limiter can help the lens perform better in some situations. For example, the Sigma 105mm has a three-position limiter with one setting that gives the full range of focus, another that's non-macro distances only and a third that's close-up and macro only. This can be a useful feature at times when you're shooting only macro... or using the lens as a short telephoto for only non-macro purposes. Check the specs on the other lenses to see what they have.

I have the Nikon Z6 with 24-70 and 24-200, as well as the Z50 with 16-50 and 50-250.
Should I keep my Fuji X100F as a 'general' walk around/street photography camera
(and for its B/W Acros feature) ? I do have issues and am somewhat inadept with its settings and features....
Appreciate any suggestions as to adding Nikon lenses, and/or ???
Thank you for your input. Ken

Google is your friend ......but here is my story. ( NOT much on the internet after now looking ! - only us old timers know about this stuff 8-(

Back in the day, when I was young and foolish and doing weddings/portraits, I used the Larson Soff shoulder bracket/reflector system quite extensively/successfully. At the time, it was being promoted by the glamour photographer Peter Gowland (now deceased) who had a flair for designing photographic tools/equipment for his glamour niche.

The Soff shoulder was manufactured by Larson Enterprises also known for their "Refectasol" line of umbrella fabrics/systems. As stock, the Soff Shoulder (SS) came with a 15 inch foldable square reflector that was suspended by a 20 inch arm attached to the camera body. The beauty of this arm was that you could swing it in an arc around the camera thereby changing the lighting angle in both landscape and portrait camera orientations ! You could use it with the fabric reflector or as a direct flash/light. Using the reflector you lost 3 stops of light - the reflector fabric was called "super silver". It could leave diamond shaped catch lights in the eyes .....

There are a couple similar systems today if you look hard but none have the arm that can swing in an arc AFAIK. I have adapted mine to accept the current efficient LED continuous light sources available. If you want one you have to look on ebay. AFAIK.

Gee, I HOPE this is "useful" .........you're welcome
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