Actually, you don’t have to move photos to iCloud manually. You can select an option to automatically upload from Photos to iCloud just like your iPhone or iPad does. I elected to not do that due to the number of photos I have.
Bill
I'm pretty sure that's what I said: photos in "Photos" are stored in the cloud, and shared with other devides if you set it up to. Photos from other sources can be sent there. I suppose it can be made the default option, but in my case It would have used up all my iClud storage a long time ago.
"Mac photos are stored in the cloud by default..."
Yes and no. pphotos from your cell phone are, and can be shared on other devices. Photos from your camera can be stored there if you like, but you have to put them there manually.
I use Time machine, but don't backup my "Pictures" folder which is in "users"/"my name"/"pictures" which is where I import all images from my camera, through lightroom.
I back those up manually to a pair of SSDs.
Backups don't take so longwhen you do it regularly, as it only copies new files.
More power to you Harry. I am 72 and have used Nikon , Canon , Leica, Hasselblad and many other brands for over 40+ years, and moved over to Sony back in 2017, and have never looked back.
I had read or watched someplace that the firmware in the OM-1m1 had to be updated so SyncIS works on it. It appears that none of the new features on the OM-1ii can be added to the original version.
The graduated ND can be rotated and moved up and down.
OM-D has very little capital...47 million last year.
The other companies spend more than that on just R&D alone.
They are using...the same OLD sensor...inventory they could not get rid of when it was Olympus.
Marginal updates here...very marginal.
Look...they aren't EVER going to tell you.
You can either read between the lines...or you cannot.
JIP doesn't turn companies around...they buy failing companies cheaper than their inventory.
That's how they operate as a business...they are not an optical company.
I'll assume you are talking to me. br br OM-D has... (show quote)
It doesn't matter to me. I have all their stuff I'll ever need. As long as it keeps working I don't care.
I don't get what your interest is in pissing on everyone's cornflakes every time there's a new thread on Olympus or OMD products. Everything in life is a gamble, I'll take my chances with a system I love. So what if it's a very small corner of the market?
"...The electronics was improved so you get SyncIS where the lens IS works in conjunction with the body IS, but only on the Mark II..."
Pretty darn sure both my OM1s IS synch with my 150-400's OS.
I haven't checked out all the specs on the mark II yet, but from what I've seen it's more than just firmware. The built in ND filter alone is very interesting. I wonder if you can rotate it?
I have used Datacolor Spyder X for the past year. I think there are so many variables for synchronizing a monitor to a PC it is tough and nearly impossible even for the best tools or programs.
After a bit of logic I decided to try something different and maybe simple.
I held a large grey card next to my monitor for the first time. The day was especially overcast and dark plus the room lighting was a factor. The match was not even close. But I used the best calibration tool available... hmmm
To the chase...
Go to Photoshop and create a 4000 x 6000 pxl adjustment layer. Then fill the layer with 50% grey and save it as a Jpeg. Also kept the layer from Photoshop open on the monitor.
Next, open the grey jpeg layer just created on your Mac or pc. Now you can see the same 50% grey image displayed on both screens. You will most likely see two different shades of Grey like I did... and a different shade than the gold standard physical grey card you have in your hand making it three...
Do this... manually adjust the monitor color to the physical grey card. Next adjusted the Mac or pc with its custom color adjustment to the physical card and adjusted monitor. All will now match perfectly and you will be able to adjust easily for the effects of ambient and room light at any time.
The most important point is you can get perfect white balance between the two screens with out buying expensive calibration gear that doesn't work.
If someone says their fancy calibrator gizmo does work, then try comparing your physical grey card to you calibrated screen, you may be amazed...
I verified the results on another pc, a tablet and my Samsumg fold for comparison under the same ambient and in the same room lighting. I also re edited another layer and checked it with the eye dropper in Photoshop and it was perfect...
Oh, and all of those pre programed white balance options like I have on my Macbook Pro M2Max are useless...
I have used Datacolor Spyder X for the past year. ... (show quote)