twindad wrote:
I've done a lot of work in those buckets. I strongly suggest you wear a harness attached to the bucket. If this is already part of the plan, then you're in good stead. A friend of mine fell 25ft from a lift, and he was never the same after that (coma for six weeks, and rehab for 2 years).
OSHA requires fall protection above 6 feet.
https://www.osha.gov/doc/outreachtraining/htmlfiles/subpartm.htmlYour 'friend' was not following the rules.
tainkc wrote:
Do we really need all of that crap just to shoot a snapshot of a flower? Lol.
Rube Goldberg
For a 'snapshot'? No.
To get a better image? Definitely.
I use a 5 way collapsible reflector/scrim, like this:
http://www.adorama.com/FPPR5122.html
MT Shooter wrote:
Saving a RAW file as a JPG with no processing before saving is a waste of time. RAW files NEED to be processed. If you are not ready to spend the time processing your RAW files, then I suggest just saving as RAW and let the cameras settings process the image for you. The JPG parameters used in the camera can be adjusted by you to obtain your desired result, but it does take practice.
If you shoot Nikon, then they are just about to release a FREE RAW processing PP package.
http://www.nikon.com/news/2014/0626_nxd_03.htm
romanticf16 wrote:
You say 1600 watt seconds, but it says 640watt seconds right on the body of the unit?
Most people get confused by that.
Most other manufacturers part/model number indicates the W/S rating of the unit. PCB does not.
zneb240 wrote:
Hint: if using off-camera flash you must use a cable from the camera hot-shoe to the flash - not commander mode as the pre-flash when using commander mode startles the bird moments before your shutter fires.
Warren :thumbup:
You can put an IR cover over the pop-up flash to make the light invisible to the naked eye, but stills sends the necessary information to the remote speedlite.
http://www.semsons.com/airpaforonca1.html
Rancher38 wrote:
I have a pair of D100's, one of which still works just fine and use it as back-up; however, the other has a "sticky" shutter or is some how set on "bulb,manual shutter" I can't get it reset.
Any suggestions?
I have problems with the shutter on both my D100's AND my D200's if the battery is low/getting bad. Even having a battery grip with a known good battery in one slot doesn't keep a bad one in the other slot from messing up the camera.
Coyote9269 wrote:
In another discussion we were talking about using water marks to aid in deterring photo theft. Some people have mentioned that when they post to the Web they make photos not print friendly. I am wondering how this is done. In PSE or light room would it be save for Web ? Or done in image size? What would be the right amount of adjustment ?
Is the attached picture the right setting to change the picture ?
You can do it EITHER thru the Adobe presets, or, set a size manually.
*I* resize to 640 pixels/long side. That makes most pics 640x480. Looks fine on a screen, but, you need at LEAST 200 pixels/inch to make a decent print, so this equates to a 3.2x2.4 inch print. Anything bigger than that looks like @#$%.
amehta wrote:
There are quite a few options. I think SmugMug and Zenfolio are in the top group for this sort of use.
I, and a number of pro's I hang out with, have SmugMug accounts.
BUT, these aren't for enticing the public to find your work and order. More like an online delivery of photo shoots.
Sites like 'deviant art', and Fine Art America would seem more like what you're looking for.
http://www.deviantart.com/http://fineartamerica.com/
rlscholl wrote:
Several manufacturers make A-S compatible QR plates. I think Induro is one, and Really-Right Stuff another. Both are fairly pricey. I think Vanguard also does. If so, their prices are likely lower.
I've gotten quite nice AS compatible plates and sockets from some of the far-east outfits, like Cowboy Studio (US but far-east manufacture) and MKStudio (Hong Kong). And they AREN'T PRICEY!
Gpa-15 wrote:
Re: 'Digital Camera with Longest Auto-Exposure-Time'
Dear fellow foto fans,
A LOOOOONG time ago I took images of Home-Interiors in natural light using my Olympus OM 2T with a 17mm lens {94°-AOV); the F-stop was f-22; ASA100 film; Remote release; Camera on Tripod at 5'7" - located in corner, facing opposite corner; Automatic-exposure speed was in the MINUTES {Not a BULB Exposure). --- THE QUESTION:
"Digital Camera with Longest Auto-Exposure-Time" or "HOW to achieve the Same RESULTANT IQ ...with a Digital-Canera⁉️"
Re: 'Digital Camera with Longest Auto-Exposure-Tim... (
show quote)
Part of an answer to your question, is that there are plenty of camera bodies that quite good noise levels at ISO's of 800.
That's 3 stops better than your film.
And,
f 22 is totally unnecessary, if you understand 'hyperfocal settings'. That's the focal point that gives the best 'apparent' depth of field. Use the 'Search' button at the top of the page to find recent discussions of that subject.
With most current lenses, you'll get diffraction blurring at
f 22.
So, with an ISO of 800, and an
f stop of 16, it would require a shutter time of 15 seconds.
Double the time if you're reluctant to go above ISO 400 (30 seconds)
amfoto1 wrote:
There are very limited options using any of the proprietary Manfrotto QR plates and platforms.
That's why I've converted everything to Arca-Swiss (including installing or replacing existing Manfrotto platforms with A-S platforms on some Manfrotto monopods and ballheads).
A-S stuff is more expensive... But you only buy it once and it's a lot more universal and versatile.
Actually, I found that Arca-Swiss 'compatible' stuff is considerably less expensive than 'Manfrotto compatible'.
MW wrote:
Check out the link, above, provided by zundapp5. That is exactly what is going on in my case. Maybe that will be clearer than my description. The wierd part is that it is only happening with one particular lens. With all others (Nikons) all this glitch does not occur. Also note that it only occurs in aperature priority mode. I'm concluding for now that there is an issue in the interface between the Sigma lens and the Nikon body that huggers the metering when "A" aperature priority is selected.
The metadata shows that a shutter speed about twice as long is calculated and used for the photo taken when the optical viewfinder is used as when live view is used. That is the only difference between how the photos were taken.
At least there is a work around in that I can use Program mode and override the aperature selection. It functions virtually like aperature prioryy when used thusly.
Check out the link, above, provided by zundapp5. ... (
show quote)
When you're using 'live view', are you covering the eyepiece?
ed61115 wrote:
What do yo u have?
ed61115@gmail dot com
Can I ask WHY you want a D40x when there are so much better bodies out there?
BigDaddy wrote:
The FAT table does not need refreshed unless errors occur. If errors are occurring then anyone, particularly a pro, should be getting a new card or getting there camera repaired.
I have to doubt every pro does this as it makes no sense.
Doubt away, but the members of an international wedding photg forum I'm on, ALL format after downloading.
It *PREVENTS* FAT problems from messing with your files.
I'm not going to wait until I have a problem AND LOSE IMAGES before doing a format.
twowindsbear wrote:
Try making the highest quality print you can, at what ever size works out, maybe 4x6 or even smaller. . . then scan that image to make your enlarged poster. We used this technique to improve photos that customers brought to the sign shop where I worked.
That makes no sense at all.
Every time you scan an image, you LOSE resolution and detail.
What I think was going on, was that you did a bunch of PP to the scanned image to make it APPEAR better on the sign.