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Dec 21, 2014 11:43:06   #
gvarner wrote:
I know, I know. This has been kicked around like forever but here's my 2 cents

Want to preserve ALL the data in a photo?
Want to HAVE to do at least some minimal post processing on your photo?

If yes, then shoot RAW. You can add a laundry list of variables but this boils it down for me. RAW maintains all your options and changeing interests into the future but requires an initial learning curve into post processing.


Would you want the camera to "automatically" change the quality of your image? Would you like the camera to throw out data? Wouldn't you prefer to make all changes yourself? These are the questions you need to answer before deciding to shoot in raw or jpeg. Once you shoot in raw, you have ALL of the data in which you can create a Jpeg file. Raw is data, a set of instructions telling you what you captured when you shot the image. Do you really want the camera to change all of that data to a compressed altered pixel file? Data vs Pixels? Would you like to have the choice of what image size you want to print? The larger the print the more defects can be seen! Printers print JPEG files, Cameras capture Data (RAW)!
There is however one exception in which I choose to shoot in JPEG, & that is shooting sports. I shoot exclusively in JPEG. Why you ask, simply because I shoot in rapid servo mode (IS off). That means many times more images, to assure one is the best and I don't have to keep changing my CF card all of the time.
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Dec 20, 2014 13:25:52   #
Hi everyone. I have LR3 and would like to update to the latest LR. My question is do I have to purchase a new edition or can I update my LR3?
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Dec 17, 2014 18:51:57   #
DirtFarmer wrote:
Fluorite coatings on lenses have been around for decades. The coating is on the glass, not the lens body. The purpose is to provide a graded index of refraction interface between the glass and the air that reduces reflections (and flare). Has nothing to do with absorbing heat.

Newer lenses use newer materials for the coatings.

And as far as starting something, don't worry. Some of these threads take on a life of their own, reaching far afield from the original topic. Guess this is one of them.

I suppose people on this forum like to practice their typing skills.
Fluorite coatings on lenses have been around for d... (show quote)


Thanks for your reply. Yes it does seem that we do get off topic a lot. But I did learn something about whats inside my lens. I think maybe the white color is for guarding against heat from the sun. I do notice that when shooting outside for a long time that my lens gets hot. That cant be a good thing. When on a tripod I do cover the camera/lens with a towel and when not on a tripod, I always keep it out of the sun.. Thanks everyone. It is good to know that some here are really smart.
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Dec 17, 2014 18:43:12   #
GoofyNewfie wrote:
I always thought the fluorite was used as a lens element, not a coating.
This from Canon's website: Link Here

"Fluorite, which boasts a very low dispersion of light, is capable of combatting the residual aberration that standard optical glass fails to eliminate. Canon succeeded in artificially creating crystal fluorite in the 1960s, producing the first interchangeable SLR lenses with fluorite elements. In the 1970s, Canon achieved the first UD (Ultra Low Dispersion) lens elements incorporating low-dispersion optical glass. This technology was further improved to create Super UD lenses in the 1990s. A combination of fluorite, UD and Super UD elements are used in many of today's super-telephoto L series lenses, telephoto zooms and wide-angle lenses."
I always thought the fluorite was used as a I u ... (show quote)

Thanks for the research. It is getting much clearer. Thanks again.
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Dec 17, 2014 11:02:29   #
lbrandt79 wrote:
I have been shooting for a long time with Canon, white to keep the heat down, anyone else ever heard that? I have never heard it. Can always be educated but that is the first time I have ever heard that.


Oh my, what have i started? I still don't know why canon's lens barrel is white. I am not a physicist! Canon uses "FLUORITE" coatings on some of their zoom lenses, & that supposedly absorbs solar heat. So is it UV,IS or Fluorite?
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Dec 17, 2014 00:21:23   #
unclestu wrote:
If this is in the wrong section please accept my apology. I feel that i need to get some sort of software to use for editing and correcting my photos and doing some creaative things in the computer. I see a lot mentioned about two different products. Photo Shop and Lightroom. I am not a pro photographer with a large nuber of photos to process. This is just my hobby. Which do you think would be best for a person such as myself, Photo Shop or Lightroom?
Thanks
Stu

LR is designed for large amounts of photo selection/processing, where PS is more editing pixels (moving pixels around). PS would be good for you now, since you do not take lots of photos. LR is more of a refined editing(exposure,WB,white/blk levels, shadows,& highlights,etc) since you would be editing in RAW. LR takes care of 90% of my editing, with the exceptions of those few images that need additional editing. I would suggest that you look further down the road, in that you will be taking more shots, lots more shots. I would suggest that you buy for the future and get LR as well as PS. Believe me you will need LR sooner than you think.
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Dec 16, 2014 14:55:02   #
JFO wrote:
Ah, here we go again. As you should know, Mr. Pigott, the reason Canon lenses stand out in a sea of black lenses is simply their color. I suspect Canon originally chose the color for that very reason; to make their lenses stand out in a crowd for no other reason than a fancy paint job. Also, a rumor has been circulating for years that Canon gives the pros those lenses, either outright or on an open ended 'loan', just for the product recognition value. That said, both companies make suburb optics and cameras. Granted Canon does a little better job marketing to the non-pro market but don't get hung up on a particular brand. I have a nephew living in Manhattan who is a well paid professional photographer and whose bag contains both Canon and Nikon equipment.

The new member who initiated this thread should 1) join a local camera club where will be found photographers of many levels of experience, 2) take a few basic courses at a community college or 3) sit down with a friend who has as many years as a serious amateur as he can find in his community. No pro or serious advanced amateur should espouse the notion that either N or C is better than the other. I have been using Nikon since 1960 when I got a model F in Japan. I've stuck with the brand for 54 years simply because all the lenses still fit all the bodies. Same could probably said by a long-time Canon owner. (BTW: That Nikon F is still alive and well and has never needed any maintenance in its life.)
Ah, here we go again. As you should know, Mr. Pigo... (show quote)

I understand the Canon's long zooms are white to keep the lens heat down when shooting in the sun. I have a canon EF70-200mm as well as other zooms, & having it white does in fact draw attention. Maybe it is white for heat issues or not , but I will give Canon the benefit of the doubt.
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Dec 14, 2014 10:45:55   #
reevescm011552 wrote:
I am new to this hobby. I would like to explore options on equipment - i.e. - brands, etc. - which is best? - Nikon, Canon, Pentax, others? - looking to purchase something soon - but so many choices. Looking between DSLR - Nikon - D3100, D3200, D3300, D5100, etc., etc. - or Canon EOS - as I say so many choices? - Where do I start and what should I look for? Looking for general photography - exploring options on which direction I would like to go.
Would appreciate any pointers? Thank you.


Welcome. Both Nikon and Canon are good cameras. It is the photographer that takes good pictures. It is also important to know what you want to photograph and also to think about the future. Camera bodies get upgraded but lenses are collected ( and are a once in a lifetime purchase) according to the type of photography you are interested in. As to the camera body, consider either full frame or APS-C before purchasing lenses. Study up on zoom lenses to see if you need a "fixed aperture" lens. To cover all the bases you need WIDE, LONG FOCAL, as well as PORTRAITURE. Consider Zoom lenses too. If you choose Canon then I recommend a good all around zoom EF24-105mm F2.8/4 L If weddings/family are your thing, then this is perfect. EF70-200mmF4/L prefect for sports/birds . ( The new EOS7D MKii has been upgraded for sports shooting). If you are thinking of earning money( sometime in the future) then think ahead about what you will eventually be shooting and buy for the future. I do not recommend buying based on a low budget, but save till you can afford the right equipment. It is not a good thing to buy and then in a little while post it on CraigsList for sale and lose 50% of your investment.

Now some here are stuck on one brand of camera for many reasons. Put the camera in your hands and get a feel for it. Cameras are a personal thing. Many camera stores will rent you a camera so you can spend a week-end checking it out.
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Dec 6, 2014 13:23:35   #
farrokh wrote:
I used to shoot photos in RAW format recently and have to convert them in JPEG in PP and again need to reduce the size of the photos to be able to post them in order to shorten upload time. Is there a better way both to preserve the quality of images along with faster time of upload ?
Many thanks in advance.


Keep shooting in RAW! If you do a lot of post editing save to a folder as a TIFF, as this will preserve all of the layers and data. I use LR because I shoot large amounts of images and LR speeds up the process of editing. Unlike Photoshop, LR can export large amounts of images to a folder all at once, where in PS you have to do one at a time, hence saving you lots of time. Editing in Raw does not take away from the original file but simply changes the values (numbers as in digits) of the data. JPEG on the other hand you lose pixels each time you make additional corrections. LR edits the data,( RAW is a set of instructions about the image, not a picture) JPEG converts to pixels which compresses and throws away pixels creating a picture. Never edit in JPEG if it can be avoided. You also can migrate from LR to PS to make other edits, then you can go back to LR, all with one key selection. LR edits 90% of what I need, but once in a while I do need to go back to PS. I hope this has been helpful. Feel free to ask our other knowledgable photographers here for more info. They will be most helpful.
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Dec 6, 2014 10:36:06   #
2011steeny wrote:
Hello everyone,

My name is Nick and I am new to this digital photography thing. I have been collecting coins for many many years, and I've decided to sell a few, but getting good pictures has been a problem for me.

I purchased a Sony Alpha A58 DSLR Camera and SEVERAL different lenses, and I have tried to create the good coin macro photo's by trial an error, (mostly error). I just recently purchased a BUNCH of books on "Beginning photography", "how to do macro photography" etc. etc. and I will be reading them as soon as they come in. I've looked at several links on macro photography on coins and got some help there, but I'm sure it is going to take time for me to get really good at it. I know I can't become a professional overnight, so I'm going to do whatever it takes to get good at this.

If anybody has any suggestions that would help me out, or if you are having the issues, I would love to hear back from you. Anyway, that's about all for now, and I wish everyone a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! Nick
Hello everyone, br br My name is Nick and I am ne... (show quote)

Hi Nick and welcome to the forum. Have you tried scanning them in a scanner?
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Dec 2, 2014 10:42:45   #
Mogul wrote:
Stupid word games! So you didn't like the title of the thread. Neither did I. We have all been moaning and groaning about that for quite a while. BUT the OP did give a good explanation of her needs, which you, as usual, chose to ignore. Instead you answered with a completely senseless comment about her ability, about which, I'm sure, you know nothing. Now Admin has gotten rid of JR1 (Kourtesy Kop), you show up as a ghost of horrors past (JR1/2, The Title Torquemada, the Subject Sheriff).

Ron, you're smart enough that, if you put your brain in forward gear, you could be a valuable asset to this forum, but you choose to be the Titular Troll. Give us all a break, please. Help us make this a better forum. Thank you!
Stupid word games! So you didn't like the title o... (show quote)


Amen! I left Craigs List because of caustic trolls and came here. I love this sensible informative forum. PLEASE keep this free from arrogant know it all trolls.
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Dec 2, 2014 10:34:24   #
Mrsmoses wrote:
My photography partner has a Cannon 7D and has been getting a lot of request for portraits..her question is what is the best portrait glass for her camera..my choice of camera is Nikon so I'm no help to her..


Something not mentioned concerning focal length. I use Canon 24-105mm mostly, but some times I use Canon 70-200mm with subjects like children, pets, etc., because with the longer focal length I can back away in order to not be too close. This makes some very comfortable.
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Nov 24, 2014 14:01:38   #
I have experience shooting new borns and children, I have found that to capture a natural look you need to back away. Getting too close ( even for adults) changes from a natural expression to a fake one, and the longer they try too "look natural the worse the look becomes. It is best to back up & there in is a problem with 50mm non zooms. You may not be able to back up in order to frame the shot. Select a lens that you can zoom in from a distance and still get as sharp a pix as you can. Babies constantly move, so you need a fast lens ( a fast lens is one that will let a lot of light in, e.g. 1.4~2.8 wide aperture, wide open allowing for faster shutter speeds ). I do a lot of portraiture, and use 70`200mm in a studio set up. You may be able use a bounce flash as long as you are some distance away from the subject. More light is a good thing. Technically the majority of photographers here are correct on their technical advise, But I come from a practical direction, and know what works and what does not . A purchase of a zoom will allow you to shoot other subject other than children. I use a Canon 24~105 ( yes I know you have Nikon ) as my go to lens for most of my shoots. If you decide to shoot wedding , this lens is a must.
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Nov 22, 2014 16:11:55   #
Jer wrote:
I'm surprised at the number of people trying to get you to do this on this forum. stand your ground and say no. this isn't a situation for on-the-job training. if you want to practice with family members sometime that's all right. however, this is a situation where people are expecting good results. not a practice session. we need to keep high standards in this profession.


Hi Jer I understand where you are coming from " stand your ground", However I was encouraging him to get better at photography. If you stand your ground Jer, you are not moving forward and understand that he will always be asked to take photos of people. Quote" SCARED IS STAYING THE SAME" Gordon Ramsey! I am not saying he is scared but it is a hell of an excuse.
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Nov 22, 2014 12:51:35   #
AKPanda wrote:
HELP!! I am, hopefully, a budding outdoor/nature/landscape photographer. It seems most folks do not grasp the idea that i do NOT do portraits, even though i can show them many, many portrait images i have taken that, quite frankly, suck. How in the world do i convince people i do not do this kind of photography and it makes a difference? i have politely declined and referred them to someone i know who would do a much better job and will not charge them much, yet they still insist i am the photographer they want. The last thing i want to do is ruin someone's student photos or event photos. I am sure they think i will do it for no cost, which is probably their motivation. How do others handle this kind of situation??
i don't want to come off as a snobby photographer, but if i don't have the skill or inclination to learn portrait techniques more advanced than snapshots, i will only produce poor images for them.
HELP!! I am, hopefully, a budding outdoor/nature/l... (show quote)


It is a wonderful thing that people select you rather than to go to other photographers.( except for the cheap skates that want something for nothing and take advantage of you). I have a few questions; Why don't you want to take portraits? Why would you not want to get paid for your portraits? Do you think portrait photography is difficult to do? I do portraits as well as special events, & I would love to have more and more people contact me to do the shoot , because they want me and no one else. That is a photographers dream, at least for those that want to make money. Photographing people is not as daunting a tasks you may suspect. It will teach you how to use your camera. You have something special that people see in you, why not take the time to learn more and give them what they want? I am an artist/photographer that started out like you just wanting to take pictures of scenery, to get reference shots for my paintings. I guess I am a curious person and wanted to know more about a camera, so I started doing weddings. OMG a whole new world opened up to me. I began studying the camera ,still to this day. I guess you may say I am hooked. LOL I would consider being upfront with a high price, and watch the cheapskates run. LOL If you do portraits it will subsidies your hobby so that you can buy that lens you have been yearning for.
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