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Posts for: Dan R
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Dec 20, 2017 18:06:59   #
rdubreuil wrote:
Don't sell yourself short, both are fine images...


RDUBREUIL...Thank you!. However, there were some incredible pics posted. I like to see them, they help with my creativity and keep me striving for better.
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Dec 19, 2017 05:55:46   #
That lighthouse picture is incredible!
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Dec 18, 2017 17:49:14   #
Very nice pics! I want to plan a trip to Maine for their rocky coast, but it's about a 11 hour drive.
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Dec 18, 2017 17:45:39   #
l-fox wrote:
I think they are better than near as good.


I-Fox,

Thank you! I wasn't sure if I wanted to post them and then it took me forever to figure out how to.
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Dec 18, 2017 17:35:13   #
There have been some really inspirational and creative pictures posted!

While mine are nowhere near as good, here are two from Upstate NY. If you look closely at the one over the lake, you can see some stars. Unfortunately, there was a full moon out that night.




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Dec 17, 2017 19:10:58   #
Good information, thanks for sharing.
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Dec 17, 2017 14:59:21   #
I would like to recommend a book for you. I found it a huge help, when I first came across it years ago. It's easy reading, but it will get you to M, A, S, and away from P.

Bryan Peterson Understanding Exposure.

https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Exposure-Fourth-Photographs-Camera/dp/1607748509/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1513540566&sr=8-1&keywords=understanding+exposure

I hope it helps...Dan
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Dec 16, 2017 07:43:55   #
Apaflo wrote:
I have been using cameras in subzero temps for 50 years. Not occasional use either, but all winter in places with long cold winters. In Barrow snow that falls in early October melts eight months later in early June! Every day in between requires proper technique to avoid condendation.

Two significant comments that contradict commonly stated advice:

1) Warming a camera slowly does NOT help and does waste your time.

2) Ziploc bags work but are not recommended.

The most effective and safest way to warm up a cold camera is to use a tall kitchen size plastic trash bag. While outside in cold air put the camera (and/or other equipment) into the trash bag, squeeze out all the air and give the top of the bag a twist or two. Take the bag inside and place it in a warm place with good air circulation. Warm air blowing directly on the bag works best!

That proceedure will warm the camera as fast as possible. The thin plastic with no air inside (air is insulation and slows the process) not only allows quick heat transfer but lets you do other things if needed.

If a memory card or battery needs to be removed it is easy and safe. With a Ziploc bag warm moist air will get into the bag if it is opened. With a trash bag an arm can be run down into the bag without letting in external air. Just do it in a place with calm air, not under a fan, and keep the open bag top well above the contents.
I have been using cameras in subzero temps for 50 ... (show quote)


I don't know if anyone is still following this tread, but I tried this twice with water bottles that sat in single digit temps for hours and it worked! Alaska is on point. Learning is a life long experience!
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Dec 15, 2017 16:34:56   #
You can try "raw therapy". Its free and is similar to Lightroom.
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Dec 14, 2017 19:20:08   #
Those are great pics! Awesome scenery.
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Dec 13, 2017 17:32:13   #
Nice pics!
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Dec 10, 2017 15:25:39   #
The day a wedding photographer shows up with an IPHONE, well know the end has come.... :)
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Dec 10, 2017 09:46:19   #
Apaflo wrote:
I have been doing Arctic "winter photography" to the extreme and full time for 50 years. It happens that I don't do much fully automatic but I am still very familiar with how it works. Hence a suggestion:

Ignore that advice as meaningless and not at all important! Winter and cold have no connection to auto vs manual anything. Whatever you are already comfortable with will work in the same way it always has.

What you do need to learn is:

1) How to deal with condensation when you take a cold camera into a warm environment.

2) How to keep spare batteries warm and available.

3) How to avoid breathing on a cold camera in a way that fogs it up and makes it useless.

There are lots of articles available via Google that will give you very accurate information on items 2 and 3. Searching for info on item 1 gets more BS than can be imagined!

Do NOT use Ziploc bags and do NOT think warming a camera is best done slowly!

Use a kitchen size plastic trash bag. While outside in the cold put the camera and lens(es) into the bag and squeeze out all of the air. Twist the top once or twice and take it inside. Place the bag in a warm place with good air circulation. The faster it gets warm the better.

The disadvantage of a Ziploc bag is that opening it in any way will allow moist air into the bag. With a plastic trash bag you can run your hand down into the bag to retrieve a memory card or battery and it will not let air into the bag. The top does not need to be sealed, it just needs to be above the contents and not have air blowing down into it.

As soon as the contents are warmer than perhaps 40F they can be removed from the bag.
I have been doing Arctic "winter photography&... (show quote)



I'm going to give that a try this week. I see you are from Alaska, so you probably deal with this often. I'll let you know how it works out....Thanks
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Dec 10, 2017 06:23:15   #
I found a book (Understanding Exposure - Bryan Peterson) years ago that may be a big help to you. The book explains how to get started in Manual Mode and also understand most of the settings quite well. But really, you need to get out and practice. Since the camera sensor records in neutral grey, typically I'll overexpose, when the scene is mostly white and under expose, when the scene is mostly black. This helps me keep the whites white and the blacks black. I have nothing against bracketing, as there are times to do so and if set correctly, it will help with a good exposure. As far as using the Histogram goes, I'm sure there are others here that could better explain it, but if the lines touch the left, you are losing data in the shadows and if the lines are touching the right side, you are losing data in the highlights. I don't know about a colorimetric. You can set the white balance for the scene in your camera and if you shoot RAW, you can adjust the white balance in PP. I hope that helps a little...
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Dec 9, 2017 12:54:32   #
Very nice set!
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