These were not all from the same trip, but all were from near the summit of Mt. Evans.

Mt Evans. 14,271’ On the east coast: 10,000 in a helicopter to photograph a commercial building in Patterson, NJ, in relation to the major roads near it.

I was photographing a wedding and suddenly had an obstruction on my 17-35mm f/2.8 lens. When I looked to see what it the problem was a found a glob of food was stuck on the UV filter. I would have been less than pleased had that been on the front element of the lens. Another time, I had a camera slide next to the rear hatch while driving. When the hatch opened the camera fell out and landed on the the front edge of the B+W filter. The filter shattered and was a little challenging to remove, but the camera and lens were undamaged. The filter took the shock and the brass filter rim protected the threads on the lens. I can't count the number of times I've been photographing outdoor events when it was raining and the UV filter protected the front element of the lens from getting wet. To each there own, but I generally leave the UV filter in place as well as almost always using the lens hood and using the lens cap when ever appropriate.

Thanks for the link. The article has some interesting data although the pricing appears to have changed in the 8 years since this article was written. When checking the prices of the top rated Hoya filter in 77mm it is currently 40% higher in price than the third ranked B+W filter.

Try googling "i1 Display" You'll find a lot of hits...B&H, Adorama, Amazon, E-Bay, and more.

This is an interesting article although pricing seems off in at least one case. The top rated Hoya is 50% more expensive than the top rated B+W at B&H photo (77mm size). Both filters have excellent reviews.

Nice job, particularly 1 & 3.

As was stated, you need a display calibrator. I'm using the X-Rite i1Display and have found it satisfactory. You may find that your current laptop's screen is old enough that you may not be able to be calibrated. I just had to replace the monitors on my desktop that were about the same age as your laptop because they were no longer able to be calibrated accurately.

I think the OP was talking about a monitor color balance issue. It might be better if we stayed on subject b

Great photographs! Isn't their camo amazing. I wonder how many times we walk past these fellows and never see them.

Neat photo. Imaginative and a great image.

The answers that say no image loss are right on. I’ve been shooting both full and APS-C sensor Nikons for years and the full frame lenses work well with the smaller sensor cameras for the reasons stated by others. I have one lens designed for the APS-C sensor and that’s because it is lighter and my wife much prefers the lighter weight.

I had the same problem with a pair of new 28” Samsung ‘QLED’ monitors. I calibrated the monitors and it looked great for A few seconds than it reverted to a pink cast. Repeated the process several times with the same result. Called Samsung support they suggested changing the cables or returning the monitor. I wound up switching from HDMI to DP cables, restoring the monitors to factory default settings, deleteing the monitor and its drivers from windows 10, rebooting and letting the monitors reinstall. After that I recalibrated the monitors (again) and this time it has held the settings (so far it’s been good for about 10 days so I think the problem is solved). I don’t know which one or what combination of things fixed the problem, but I was getting frustrated and about to return the monitors and tried everything I could think of at one time. The factory default settings are far to bright and blue is far to low.

Have you looked at the images on a calibrated monitor? Have you checked the histogram in the cameras? Does the Canon’s meter recommend a different exposure than the Seconic meter? How many stops off is the Canon’s exposure?

Thank you!