To find 'that dang sun'.
Dennis, I used my Canon 5DII, and my 100-400 Canon L lens. Not the top expensive one, mine is the 4.5-5.6 lens. The camera has 25mp, and the lens is the Canon L series. I also used the Canon 2.0 Tel extender.
Don't conclude I'm wealthy, I'm not. But I saved for the 5DII, and three L series lenses. One came with the body, and the other two are used lenses from my local camera shop. While I like Amazon more than perhaps I should, I support my local camera store, and urge all UHH members to do so. That's the only way I would be comfortable buying a used lens, from a respected camera store, and with a guarantee along with it.
These are the ingredients behind the sun image on here, and I hope I can capture an equally good image during Totality.
Hi. I'm in OR. I'll be using either my 18-55mm, or my 55-200mm. What kind of filter are you using? I have a -10 stop ND filter that still shows the Sun. Don't forget when Totality hits, take the filter off. You'll be in low light condition. Depending on what you want to set your ISO to, you'll have to change back once totality ends. I'll be shooting a burst of 4-5 second exposures. Also, set up another camera to film flowers closing and opening.
gjgallager
Loc: North Central CT & Space Coast Florida
My 95mm Solar filter for my Nikkor 200-500 arrives tomorrow (by end of day of course). I'm going to try wi-fi to my Android tablet with live view to start, find the sun then turn LV off. I'm thinking of programming the intervalometer (sp?) to take a sequence of photos automatically, then pull the filter at totallity then replace it for the last phase. I played with the tablet and wi-fi when I first got my D750, (will be using my D7200) set it on a tripod a few feet from a birdfeeder, then from my living room couch started taking pictures, blue jays, cardinals, the male painted buntings being too elusive. I know totallity will last about 2'30" at the centerline, not sure what the total time start to finish is though. Like previous posters have said, practice, practice, practice.
Tomorrow there's a rocket launch from pad 39A at ~12:30pm with the first stage returning a few minutes later.
elliott937 wrote:
GGTTC, I've always 'just typed in the bottom box', but never clicked on REPLY. Now is see an option for Choose File. To that, I thank you. I always enjoy learning something new.
Okay, I'll going to post the two images. The first is when I found the sun, just going behind a cloud. The second is what I captured about ten minutes later, after the slow process of moving...moving... everything.
And, by the way, the second was shot at 1/15sec, F=11(I think) and the iso set to 400.
GGTTC, I've always 'just typed in the bottom box',... (
show quote)
I am using a Nikon P900 with a Thousand Oaks SolarLight film filter and have pretty much settled on using ISO 100, f-8, and 1/200; that gives my an image that is an orangeish image; I may try f-5.6 to lighten the image somewhat. Still experimenting every few days trying different things. Biggest problem is trying to focus manually.
Elliott - you mentioned earlier that you were planning to focus on shooting the eclipse during totality and if you haven't run across something like this, I thought I'd suggest the link below for some guidance on camera settings and other considerations. It appears the author knows what he's talking about but since this will be my first attempt at photographing an eclipse, I don't have any personal experience to confirm the details shown.
http://www.mreclipse.com/SEphoto/SEphoto.html
OneEyedLarry wrote:
Hi. I'm in OR. I'll be using either my 18-55mm, or my 55-200mm. What kind of filter are you using? I have a -10 stop ND filter that still shows the Sun. Don't forget when Totality hits, take the filter off. You'll be in low light condition. Depending on what you want to set your ISO to, you'll have to change back once totality ends. I'll be shooting a burst of 4-5 second exposures. Also, set up another camera to film flowers closing and opening.
Do not use your ND filter. You need a solar filter.
For an easy filter, go to one of the hardware stores that sells welding equipment. They sell spare #10 hood lens that work very well. Hold or tape it on the camera lens. $4.00 at Lowes.
ordered 6x6 filter from 1000 oaks the other day be here wed. Got to figure out how to mount it,so it won't fall off while i'm looking thru it.
Thanks Dennis, I saw that website months ago. I will shoot full aperture, camera in manual mode, and then take many shots starting with 1/30 of a second. Since I'll be sitting on the stool, I will be able to look up at the LCD screen during that automatic display of new image. I thought of using AEB (auto bracket) but I'm concerned about camera shake. While I'll have 'only' 41 seconds, actually 41 seconds will be lots of time. I'll be near a school where they will have students outside, and they plan to use one of those compressed can air horns to indicate the start and end of the Totality period. I spoke with one of the science teachers and recommended sounding the horn for a 38 second period, to keep the students safely inside the Totality period. I'll be shooting in RAW, so you know it is nicely 'forgiving'. I'll be able to draw information from even a somewhat dark shot to make a nicely bright shot.
One week to go, and I'm going to go out at noon several more days yet, practicing the "skill" of finding the sun. I'm glad my classes don't begin until the week after the Eclipse.
BTW, everyone, keep reminding all that neutral density filters is very dangerous, even if you stack them. Filtration must be Eclipse filtration, and all Eclipse filtration must go BEFORE any and all lenses.
This was taken with my Nikon D3100 55-200mm, ISO 200. f/9 1/2000 sec on Aperture P.
OneEyedLarry, your image is not forming on my screen, but I'd love to yet see it.
Great hints and advice here, I'm using a 150-600mm Tamron lense with a 18 stop eclipse filter, so the advice of doing some shooting before hand is going to be put to use, thanks all!
elliott937 wrote:
GGTTC, I've always 'just typed in the bottom box', but never clicked on REPLY. Now is see an option for Choose File. To that, I thank you. I always enjoy learning something new.
Okay, I'll going to post the two images. The first is when I found the sun, just going behind a cloud. The second is what I captured about ten minutes later, after the slow process of moving...moving... everything.
And, by the way, the second was shot at 1/15sec, F=11(I think) and the iso set to 400.
GGTTC, I've always 'just typed in the bottom box',... (
show quote)
Why are you using 1/15?
Why not 5.6 at 1/60th ?
Or even a higher ISO for more speed.
At 1/15, you might be begging for motion blur.
SS
Edit:
Oops, I saw you're using a 2x. maybe f8 at 1/30 or even bump up the ISO a half stop or more?
Valid points, especially about motion blur. A reason why I'm practicing, to include post production so I see my results. Why not 5.6? My zoom lens is wonderful, great glass, but it's also 'only' a 4.5-5.6. I'll try the 5.6 at 1/60 at noon today. Higher ISO? I've promised a librarian where I teach that I'll donate a 2'x2' wrapped canvas IF I get a good capture. So I'm wanting to keep my ISO low.
Don't think I don't appreciate your suggestions. I'm taking note of all of them. Rain is in our forecast for Tuesday thru Thursday, but it still leaves me tomorrow, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday to practice. Just in case you might be wondering, they are forecasting clear and sunny for next Monday, but who can accurately forecast seven days out?
This was taken about 5:20 pm PDT no fried sensors.
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