elliott937 Loc: St. Louis

Okay, let's see how I can share all of what I learned, especilly tody, by a number of you, and by my experimenting. I even have two images I want to share.

First, I tried the shadow idea with the camera on the tripod, and it didn't work. However, I took the camera off the tripod, then looked at the shadow of --> the camera-base-plate. There is a gap below it, so I moved the tripod head up and down (in the vertical plane) until a straight/focus show image was seen on the concrete. (I must remember to take a white/light colored sloth in case I end up on a grass field.)

Then reattach the camera. You are right, focus with minimum magnification. I'm using a 100-400, then through a Canon 2.0 multiplying extender. On minimum magnification, I actually found the dim small dot. (The sun was beginning to go behind a cloud.) Once I found it, I took lots and lots and lots of time moving the dot toward the center. Very small movement of the camera was essential. When I believed it was centered, I began to move the zoom ring, slowly. Lost it, but noted where it slipped out. For me, it was the 10 o'clock spot, so slowly moved the camera to get it back in the center, what I hoped was the center. Then move the zoom ring some more, and just continue the process until I was at 400mm on the lens (actually 800 due to the 2.0 extender). With more very very carefully moving the camera, both horizontally and vertically, I was able to get the sun image in the middle of my screen, since I could (finally) see the focus ring and center box.

By the way, two notes. I was slowly manually focusing the image. When focused, I could clearly see the circular edge of the sun. This tells me that I'm going to do all manual focus on Eclipse Day. Second note, Dennis is correct, you may get lock-neck looking through your view finder. Several years ago, not know if I'd ever benefit from the right-angle eye piece, I finally realized its value. It was the best way to do this Eclipse work. The camera is pointing nearly vertically, yet I'm looking horizontal. My neck likes me a lot today. It's worth the price.

Okay, I'm going to try to upload two images. I've never done this before, so be patient with me if you see no images or silly images.

Okay guys, I may know well my physics, but I don't see what to click on to upload an image, and these two are pretty cool. Feel free to jump on my and tell me what I'm missing.

elliott937 Loc: St. Louis

Oh, I forgot to add to my already long previous post. With the Right-angle viewer, and lowering the tripod, definitely use a small stool. Definitely. I even was able to note the movement of the sun (earth actually, but you get the idea.). OH, one more thing, with the right angle viewer, you must be viewing perfectly along the vertical line. In a regular view finder of the camera, it is 'forgiving'. You can be off Perfectly Vertical Line, and you'll still see an image. Not true with the Right-angle viewer. I thought I 'had' the sun, then 'lost' the sun. It was still there, but I moved slightly off perfectly vertical viewing. And, one more thing and I'll shut up. My right angle viewer has two magnification setting. Sooo, it should be set for weakest magnification until you have the sun in the best center position you could find. Then kick it into max magnification.

Okay, time shut up. I'll read and hope someone will tell me how to upload an image. I think you'll like the 'before' and the 'after'.

ggttc Loc: TN

There should be a choose file box underneath the send button on your post. Also a store original check box.

You will get a preview of the post and then you still have to send it to see it on the page.

D810 auto focus

(Download)

Canon sx50 bridge.

(Download)

elliott937 Loc: St. Louis

Okay, let's try this. Under the text box that I'm typing in, I see a "Send" button, and ('after replying, watch this topic') button to click. I never see a 'choose file' box. I'm using Chrome, is that what is making the difference? [I've always wondered how you guys have been uploading images.]

skywolf

I tried ordering some welding hood lenses, but every place I tried said they were backordered. I'm using recommended solar film. I can't afford to buy a $200 (cheapest I've found) 95mm solar filter, especially to most likely use it one time. Until the film gets here, I'm reading every word I can find about the eclipse. I'm going to Nashville, TN to shoot it.

SS319

Look at the shadow of the camera and lens on the ground! When all you see is the camera - no outline of the lens barrel - you are close enough to find the sun in the frame. The shadow should be a crisp image of your camera outline as seen from straight in front or straight behind.

Good enough technique to find the sun for the Venus transit (2004).

Here is the challenge for you - et.al.: someone, somewhere along the eclipse pathline the space station will pass between earth and the sun - capture the image as it touches the moon and you will have "THE" image of the day.

Sorry, I forgot we have a grammarian aboard, that sentence above should have the word "someone" deleted, and the remainder should read "...the sun - if you can capture the station as it touches the moon, you will..."

ggttc Loc: TN

Lower left corner

SS319

The Bader film is very delicate! Do not touch it with anything! A single fingerprint or any abrasion whatsoever will destroy the film. Always hold the film up and see if sunlight comes through anywhere - if so - even a tiny tiny needle prick and the film will destroy your camera. I have had my Bader film since before the turn of this century for two telescopes and a 500mm cat lens and never touched it.

Did I mention that the Bader film is very, very delicate.

elliott937 Loc: St. Louis

SS319, the Totality is the only image I want to capture. I won't remove my Eclipse filter until -after- the disappearance of the Bally's Beads. So, if the totality is your exclusive goal, you don't need an Eclipse filter. However, remember, while you 'generally' aim your camera, you cannot remove your front lens cap until Totality. I just checked for you, and in Nashville, you'll have 1 minute, 59 seconds of totality. You'll have to be quick, but you could do it.

Remember, anyone using Chrome as your browser, can you give me a hint on how to upload an image.

ggttc Loc: TN

Scroll up... I sent you a screen shot...and I am using chrome.

elliott937 Loc: St. Louis

GGTTC, I've always 'just typed in the bottom box', but never clicked on REPLY. Now is see an option for Choose File. To that, I thank you. I always enjoy learning something new.

Okay, I'll going to post the two images. The first is when I found the sun, just going behind a cloud. The second is what I captured about ten minutes later, after the slow process of moving...moving... everything.

And, by the way, the second was shot at 1/15sec, F=11(I think) and the iso set to 400.

turp77 Loc: Connecticut, Plainfield

See in your picture your camera is pointing close to the correct spot now if you look at the shadow of your camera on the ground you can now adjust the camera until you get the smallest shadow (not moving your tripod up or down) your camera will be lined up with the sun. We do this with telescopes

BBurns Loc: South Bay, California

You will need to observe and learn the arc that the sun moves across the sky. You want to set your gear up so that you only have to track on one axis.
The higher the magnification the faster the sun will move out of view. You will be very surprised how fast it moves.

Get very good at setting up so that you are pointed just in front of the sun so that once you are locked down solid, the sun will move into your field of view. Similar to leading your target on a long rifle shot.
The sun will be fairly high in the sky so a right-angled eyepiece on your viewfinder can be beneficial. Do not use the rubber feet on the tripod, screw them up out of the way. They will induce vibration.

Here is a very important quote from the Thosand Oaks Optical Site:

…Our filters also protect the camera sensor. Safe to view through the viewfinder with SLR’s that focus through the lens.
Solar filter MUST be first in line from sun and in front of any telescope or camera lens or mirror.
Filter should NEVER be used behind any lens, eyepiece or finder. This includes camera drop in holders behind lens…”

See my previous thread: Solar Eclipse Planning

elliott937 Loc: St. Louis

B, you are correct on all counts. Today was my second consecutive day doing my practice. I plan to do many more before next Tuesday, for I want everything to become second-nature. For us, the Totality will occur at about 1:17PM, so I'm doing all my practice between 12:30 and 1:30.

Months ago, I asked the folks at Canon about damage to the sensor. Yes, the instantly assured that the sensor would be damaged by direct sunlight. Hence, why the Eclipse filter can be taken off ONLY during the Totality.

Oh, the placement of the filter? Our local major newspaper is doing stories about the eclipse, I'm sure every paper is. They had a link that took me to a website that showed a man beside his telescope. With no eclipse filter on the front of his telescope, he held a pair of Eclipse glasses at the exit port of the eye piece. In less than 10 seconds, the plastic eclipse glasses were burned, with a hole the size of a pencil. I worry many people will assume that they are safe if they wear eclipse glasses while a.) looking through telescopes, b.) looking through binoculars, c.) looking through any camera.

Is there a reason to take a course in Physics? In the study of light and lenses, when convex lenses (e.g. cameras, optical devices) are used, there are six cases. Case #2 is our world of photography, telescopes, et. al. There is more to the story, but in Case #2, all incoming light pass through a focal point and converge on a very small surface, our camera sensors. Moral of the story? After the lenses, the light concentration is exponential, along with its intensity.

Dennis in Texas Loc: Katy, Texas

Hi Elliott937 - I wondering what lens was used for the shot taken with the D810? The clarity is a lot better than I'm getting with my older D90 (12.9 Mp) and was wondering if you would attribute this clarity to the 810, the lens, or maybe just better precision focusing. The first photo is as shot and the second is cropped and blown up. The second photo shows a sunspot but make it any bigger and it becomes pretty pixilated. Thanks for any insight.