I have a Canon EOS7D with an 18-270 Tamron lens. The first photo is one my daughter took. No movement. The second photo I took and it shows blurred movement. What setting do I use for this? The photos of the jumping coyotes one other photographer took is what I want. Stop action. Help......
Mac
Loc: Pittsburgh, Philadelphia now Hernando Co. Fl.
OregonSue wrote:
I have a Canon EOS7D with an 18-270 Tamron lens. The first photo is one my daughter took. No movement. The second photo I took and it shows blurred movement. What setting do I use for this? The photos of the jumping coyotes one other photographer took is what I want. Stop action. Help......
You want a fast shutter speed. 1/250 - 1/500.
Okie dokie.. how do I do that?
Mac
Loc: Pittsburgh, Philadelphia now Hernando Co. Fl.
OregonSue wrote:
Okie dokie.. how do I do that?
Set your camera to Shutter Priority (Tv), and set you shutter speed. I don't use Canon so I don't know the exact steps for setting the Shutter Speed, but you will find that in your user's manual. If you don't have a manual, you should be able to find one online at CanonUSA.com. You should also set you ISO to 400-800 for indoor shots or even better set your ISO to Auto.
I hope this helps and I'll be looking forward to you photos.
p.s. The book "Understand Exposure" by Bryan Peterson is great for learning how to get the perfect exposure.
Thank you so much!!! I will work on this. Appreciate your information.
If you'll post the originals with 'store original', it will be easier to explain by pointing to the technical details contained within each of these two examples.
To answer 'how do I do that?', try Tv (Shutter priority) and set the speed first at 1/250. You may need also to select an ISO but it depends on the lens and the available light at the event. Again, with the details of the pictures above, we could give a better explanation based on pictures from your camera and lens combo.
See also page 102 of your 7D manual.
Sue, stopping fast action indoors is gonna be tough with your lens. Since your lens has a zoom ratio of greater than 3:1 it's likey in the 3.5-5.6 stop range. That is a pretty slow lens if you're looking for speed.
Can you use a flash? That's what flash is for, stopping action.
Assuming you can't use flash, 1/500 is the minimal speed needed. To get things really crisp you need 1/000 but that is pretty fast indoors.
1/500 will work if you can anticipate the stops in the action as your daughter probably did. But at full motion it won't do it.
Set your speed and try Auto ISO to see if it will stay withing whatever range you need to keep the noise tolerable. The camera will likely shoot wide open so you also will have to keep your dof in mind as well. If that fails and the expensive 2.8 zooms are out of you price range then you may need a shorter, faster but less expensive prime such as the 85 1.8.
Shooting fast indoor sports is as expensive as it gets because of the fast glass and high ISO cameras needed. Good luck.
SS
OregonSue wrote:
I have a Canon EOS7D with an 18-270 Tamron lens. The first photo is one my daughter took. No movement. The second photo I took and it shows blurred movement. What setting do I use for this? The photos of the jumping coyotes one other photographer took is what I want. Stop action. Help......
The blur in the second shot is not bad though, as it shows movement.
But... "Event Photography" is a genre that includes things like indoor sports such as gymnastics. Typically it involves poor lighting and possibly fast moving subjects. Needless to say that makes thing difficult.
What you need is a lens at about 200mm focal length that is "fast", meaning it has a large maximum aperture. F/2 would be wonderful, and such beasts have been designed specifically to take pictures of Olympic gymnastics events! For example, Nikon has a 200mm f/2 that is sharpest when shot wide open, rather than stopped down a couple fstops like most lenses. It only costs $6000 or so... ! :-)
So what's a normal person who wants pictures of their kids to do? Commonly the 70-200mm f/2.8 lenses are very commonly used. They aren't cheap, but not as bad as the f/2 lenses. An older used version might be in your budget range? Less than $1400 if you look around.
Otherwise find a 200mm f/4. Either way, be glad that today's digital cameras can shoot at obnoxiously high ISO values! You'll get too much noise, but that can be lived with.
Try keeping shutter speeds as high as you can. Shoot Shutter Priority at 1/400 to 1/1000. And use Auto ISO.
OregonSue wrote:
I have a Canon EOS7D with an 18-270 Tamron lens. The first photo is one my daughter took. No movement. The second photo I took and it shows blurred movement. What setting do I use for this? The photos of the jumping coyotes one other photographer took is what I want. Stop action. Help......
Use the same settings your daughter used, and catch the peak of action as she did.
OregonSue wrote:
I have a Canon EOS7D with an 18-270 Tamron lens. ... I want. Stop action. Help......
the information on speeding up your shutter, raising your ISO, faster lens, are all good but you are missing the most important part.
Gymnastics is a series of static poses which are held and judged.
Learn to anticipate and shoot during that static pose.
Most of your motion problems will solve themselves.
What is the aperture range of your Tamron: for example, my Canon 100-400 is 4.5-5.6? 1/250-1/500 will usually result in some image shake in sports photographs. I generally use 1/1000-/1250 and recommend the use of a tripod as that will help with crispness as well. If you have auto-ISO, I would use that indoors so you not getting a lot of underexposed images
Also, turn off the IS as at 1/1000 or 1/1250 IS is irrelvant.
davidrb
Loc: Half way there on the 45th Parallel
OregonSue wrote:
I have a Canon EOS7D with an 18-270 Tamron lens. The first photo is one my daughter took. No movement. The second photo I took and it shows blurred movement. What setting do I use for this? The photos of the jumping coyotes one other photographer took is what I want. Stop action. Help......
Sue, you are getting into an area that requires some additional instruction.. Try looking at: photzy.com. This is a free site operated by our "down under" friends. There you can find several videos that explain shutter speed and how to photograph objects in motion. In these videos you will learn one of the reasons the daughter's feet are blurred is because you are closer that the other shot. By moving closer you put your camera in a situation where it needed a faster shutter speed. These are the little things that make DSLR popular, the camera can be used to capture all kinds of things unavailable to fixed lenses. Photzy also has a great video that explains the exposure metering. All this for a great price!!! Enjoy.
mcveed
Loc: Kelowna, British Columbia (between trips)
OregonSue wrote:
I have a Canon EOS7D with an 18-270 Tamron lens. The first photo is one my daughter took. No movement. The second photo I took and it shows blurred movement. What setting do I use for this? The photos of the jumping coyotes one other photographer took is what I want. Stop action. Help......
The difference is timing. Sports photographers study their sport so they can anticipate the moment when movement stops or slows. You daughter took the shot when the acrobat's body was stopped in mid air, just as upward movement had stopped and downward movement hadn't started yet. The basketball shot taken when the athlete is at the top of the jump, the soccer goalie when he is at the top of his leap to catch the ball etc etc. Shutter speed is, or course, important but timing is the difference between the two shots you posted.
Drfache wrote:
What is the aperture range of your Tamron: for example, my Canon 100-400 is 4.5-5.6? 1/250-1/500 will usually result in some image shake in sports photographs. I generally use 1/1000-/1250 and recommend the use of a tripod as that will help with crispness as well. If you have auto-ISO, I would use that indoors so you not getting a lot of underexposed images
Also, turn off the IS as at 1/1000 or 1/1250 IS is irrelvant.
The 7D starts to get pretty noIsy past around ISO 800. The maximum aperture of this lens is f/3.5-6.3. I believe it's up to f/5.6 somewhere between 100-150mm. Getting 1/1000 second indoors without a strong flash or substantial lighting will be impossible.
I SOOOOOOOOOOO appreciat all your help. Still working on it. THANK YOU MUCHO!!!!!!
If you want to reply, then
register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.