Stopping movement in action shots
Jan 20, 2015 07:54:23 #
Mac wrote:
The book "Understand Exposure" by Bryan Peterson is great for learning how to get the perfect exposure.
I agree 100% with this. In addition I suggest you become more familiar with your camera controls. Many ways to do that. One is read the owners manual and another is to find a third party book about the camera. I have one written by David D. Busch that has been a real help for me to learn my camera and how to operate it effectively. Good luck and stick with it. Photography is so much more than just clicking a shutter release.
Jan 20, 2015 08:10:48 #
davidrb wrote:
Sue, you are getting into an area that requires so... (show quote)
I do have a couple of questions regarding this answer. First, how does moving closer require a faster shutter speed. And how does having a Single Lens Reflex vs a Viewfinder camera make any difference in having a fixed lens camera vs an interchangeable lens camera. Seems that you are mixing up specifications, but I am willing to learn...
Jan 20, 2015 08:23:07 #
Jan 20, 2015 08:43:07 #
sirlensalot
Loc: Arizona
Check manual, then set camera to "continuous focus" mode and shutter to " high speed".
Then explore options for using "back button focus".
Mcveed posted a critical part of sports shooting which is timing. The best part is how much fun it is to learn. You can do this.
I prefer a lens like the 85/1.8 for either a crop or full sensor camera. Remarkable lens at a reasonable price. Have also used the 50/1.8 on crop sensor. With a little more available light, the 70-200/4 is a teriffic option for the money. Budget does not permit the 2.8 version in Canon brand. You can get some tutorials on sports shooting from YouTube also. Good luck!
Then explore options for using "back button focus".
Mcveed posted a critical part of sports shooting which is timing. The best part is how much fun it is to learn. You can do this.
I prefer a lens like the 85/1.8 for either a crop or full sensor camera. Remarkable lens at a reasonable price. Have also used the 50/1.8 on crop sensor. With a little more available light, the 70-200/4 is a teriffic option for the money. Budget does not permit the 2.8 version in Canon brand. You can get some tutorials on sports shooting from YouTube also. Good luck!
Jan 20, 2015 09:53:00 #
sirlensalot wrote:
Check manual, then set camera to "continuous ... (show quote)
BBF? You're getting a bit complicated SLAL
Jan 20, 2015 10:06:52 #
OregonSue wrote:
I have a Canon EOS7D with an 18-270 Tamron lens. The first photo is one my daughter took. No movement. The second photo I took and it shows blurred movement. What setting do I use for this? The photos of the jumping coyotes one other photographer took is what I want. Stop action. Help......
Motion blur is not necessarilly a bad thing. I kinda like that the motion is not stopped but in fact emphisized. As above if you want to stop fast action indoors, you probably need a faster lens.
Jan 20, 2015 10:34:41 #
lporrel
Loc: California
If you are not interested in learning about shutter priority, aperture priority, and manual modes, and instead are OK with what your (very nice) camera is pre-programmed to do, you can also simply set the camera to "Sports" mode (or whatever Canon calls it). You'll generally get better results if you have mastery of the Camera, but you can get a good number of fine shots with pre-programmed modes (in the right conditions). In less than ideal conditions, there is no good alternative to knowing how to set up the camera manually.
Also, if your lens has Image Stabilization, ensure that it is turned on (unless you the camera is mounted on a tripod, in which case you'll want to turn IS off).
Finally, no matter what or how you are shooting, you need to practice holding the camera as still as possible while releasing the shutter. This is harder than it sounds and takes quite a bit of practice. The tendency, especially among less experienced photographers, is to jab the finger at the shutter release. (And even experience photographers can make this mistake in the heat of the moment.) This moves the whole camera and causes blurry images. (While this isn't what we see in your sample images, I thought I'd bring it up anyway.)
Also, if your lens has Image Stabilization, ensure that it is turned on (unless you the camera is mounted on a tripod, in which case you'll want to turn IS off).
Finally, no matter what or how you are shooting, you need to practice holding the camera as still as possible while releasing the shutter. This is harder than it sounds and takes quite a bit of practice. The tendency, especially among less experienced photographers, is to jab the finger at the shutter release. (And even experience photographers can make this mistake in the heat of the moment.) This moves the whole camera and causes blurry images. (While this isn't what we see in your sample images, I thought I'd bring it up anyway.)
OregonSue wrote:
Thank you so much!!! I will work on this. Appreciate your information.
Jan 20, 2015 10:39:40 #
i think the first picture was taken at a moment where there was no motion for a instant , the other was taken when quick motion was going on .
Jan 20, 2015 11:00:49 #
Jan 20, 2015 11:02:08 #
Got me scratchin'. Don't know the camera very well. Lots to learn. It was set on P. That's all I know.
Jan 20, 2015 11:05:07 #
Guess I will be reading the manual and getting some other information as suggested. Thank you all for your help!
Jan 20, 2015 11:11:05 #
agillot wrote:
i think the first picture was taken at a moment where there was no motion for a instant , the other was taken when quick motion was going on .
If you are shooting indoors at various sports events, be careful about using a flash. A lot of places don't want you using one anyway. You do not want to cause an injury to your daughter or anyone else. Flashes can be very distractive for some, and that is not what you want in this specific sport photographed above.
When I shoot, the thought I begin with is safety. Whether it is wildlife at a nest, people moving through a set path, vehicles, people on a stage, or whatever. Safety is the most important thing to consider... yours and theirs.
Others have provided some useful suggestions about your camera settings already, so I won't belabor that.
Good luck and be sure to share your results with us.
Jan 20, 2015 11:18:08 #
mwsilvers
Loc: Central New Jersey
OregonSue wrote:
Got me scratchin'. Don't know the camera very well. Lots to learn. It was set on P. That's all I know.
Much too good a camera to waste using on P all the time. Additionally, while the Tamron 18-270 is a nice do it all lens, it doesn't do the camera full justice. "Do it all" superzooms, by their very nature, have less than stellar image quality with high levels of various lens distortions, poorer light transmission, sharpness issues and small maximum apertures. This is not to say you won't get acceptable results from them, merely that over time you may realize their limitations and decide it time to step up your game.
Jan 20, 2015 11:20:14 #
Jan 20, 2015 11:24:46 #
mwsilvers
Loc: Central New Jersey
OviedoPhotos wrote:
In my experience a faster shutter speed indoors is based on more light.
Yes of course, either more light or a higher ISO setting, or both. There's no free lunch.
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