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Stopping movement in action shots
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Jan 20, 2015 11:25:55   #
OregonSue Loc: Los Angeles, now Oregon
 
Thanks! Yes you are right about the flash at indoor sporting events. We were TOLD not to use a flash. Scares the critters too. Will work on this and see what I come up with.

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Jan 20, 2015 11:28:13   #
lporrel Loc: California
 
OregonSue wrote:
Got me scratchin'. Don't know the camera very well. Lots to learn. It was set on P. That's all I know.


In P mode, you can turn one of the wheels (not sure which one on Canon) to change the aperture and shutter speed simultaneously and relative to each other.

In P mode, shooting sports indoors, you'll generally want to crank up your shutter speed as high as you can. Note that indoors, this still may be too slow.

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Jan 20, 2015 12:23:22   #
OddJobber Loc: Portland, OR
 
davidrb wrote:
(snip) In these videos you will learn one of the reasons the daughter's feet are blurred is because you are closer that the other shot. By moving closer you put your camera in a situation where it needed a faster shutter speed.


nikonbug wrote:
(snip)First, how does moving closer require a faster shutter speed.

'tis true, as you move closer to the subject the blur becomes more noticeable. To take this to extremes, imagine shooting moving traffic on a highway 1/4 mile away at 125th sec. You probably won't notice any movement. Then move up to the curb by the highway and shoot again. The traffic will be blurred if recognizable at all. It's about how far across the frame the subject moves while the shutter is open.

That said, Sue was only a little closer, so in this case I don't think that difference was significant.

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Jan 20, 2015 12:26:04   #
CraigFair Loc: Santa Maria, CA.
 
OregonSue wrote:
I have a Canon EOS7D with an 18-270 Tamron lens. The first photo is one my daughter took. No movement. The second photo I took and it shows blurred movement. What setting do I use for this? The photos of the jumping coyotes one other photographer took is what I want. Stop action. Help......

Yes you do want a faster shutter speed, shot in shutter speed mode. In the first shot your daughter took the action was almost stopped at the top of the bar. Where in your shot the action is in full speed at her feet.
Craig

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Jan 20, 2015 13:03:58   #
Bill Emmett Loc: Bow, New Hampshire
 
The Canon EOS 7D, was the best wildlife/sports camera on the market. It has only been superseded by the Canon 7D Mark II, as its replacement. The learning curve of the 7D, becomes quite steep as photographers demands go beyond total automatic, and program mode. Adding movement to a photo needs a better technique to take successful photos. I suggest you get a copy of "The Digital Field Guide for the Canon EOS 7D" by Wiley Publishing. Place the guide on the table while reading, and the camera in your lap, and as you read make the suggested settings, and shoot some pictures. The results will make you aware of what the 7D can do, and the results of the settings. Also, buy a copy of Bryan Petersons "Understanding Exposure" that book will unlock the mystery of what light, and time does to effect your photos. The "Field Guide" will tell you how to set your camera, and "Understanding Exposure" will tell you why it needs to set this way. Every setting possible will be covered in both of these books, and why you need to make them. After reading both of these books and making and testing the settings on your 7D, you will never use "P" mode, nor "A" mode again to shoot your pictures.

B

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Jan 20, 2015 15:39:08   #
Dave R. Loc: PNW
 
Bill Emmett wrote:
The Canon EOS 7D, was the best wildlife/sports camera on the market. It has only been superseded by the Canon 7D Mark II, as its replacement. The learning curve of the 7D, becomes quite steep as photographers demands go beyond total automatic, and program mode. Adding movement to a photo needs a better technique to take successful photos. I suggest you get a copy of "The Digital Field Guide for the Canon EOS 7D" by Wiley Publishing. Place the guide on the table while reading, and the camera in your lap, and as you read make the suggested settings, and shoot some pictures. The results will make you aware of what the 7D can do, and the results of the settings. Also, buy a copy of Bryan Petersons "Understanding Exposure" that book will unlock the mystery of what light, and time does to effect your photos. The "Field Guide" will tell you how to set your camera, and "Understanding Exposure" will tell you why it needs to set this way. Every setting possible will be covered in both of these books, and why you need to make them. After reading both of these books and making and testing the settings on your 7D, you will never use "P" mode, nor "A" mode again to shoot your pictures.

B
The Canon EOS 7D, was the best wildlife/sports cam... (show quote)

Don't be surprised if Gene51 doesn't try to say your foolish for suggesting reading materials to assist in the learning curve. I recently suggested the same book by Peterson and was ridiculed by him. In following other posts by same I can't help but think his way is the only way. NOT

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Jan 20, 2015 15:58:47   #
Klsing Loc: Georgia
 
You have all helped me with the question I just posted. Thank you.

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Jan 20, 2015 16:25:19   #
Architect1776 Loc: In my mind
 
OregonSue wrote:
I have a Canon EOS7D with an 18-270 Tamron lens. The first photo is one my daughter took. No movement. The second photo I took and it shows blurred movement. What setting do I use for this? The photos of the jumping coyotes one other photographer took is what I want. Stop action. Help......


Is a flash possible?
The 580EX or 580EXII on the used market is a great deal now and would help.

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Jan 20, 2015 16:38:04   #
OddJobber Loc: Portland, OR
 
OregonSue wrote:
Yes you are right about the flash at indoor sporting events. We were TOLD not to use a flash.


Architect1776 wrote:
Is a flash possible?
The 580EX or 580EXII on the used market is a great deal now and would help.


:roll: :roll: :roll:

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Jan 20, 2015 17:27:57   #
davidrb Loc: Half way there on the 45th Parallel
 
OddJobber wrote:
'tis true, as you move closer to the subject the blur becomes more noticeable. To take this to extremes, imagine shooting moving traffic on a highway 1/4 mile away at 125th sec. You probably won't notice any movement. Then move up to the curb by the highway and shoot again. The traffic will be blurred if recognizable at all. It's about how far across the frame the subject moves while the shutter is open.

That said, Sue was only a little closer, so in this case I don't think that difference was significant.
'tis true, as you move closer to the subject the b... (show quote)


Sorry OddJobber but Sue moved much closer proportionately. Look at the girl's head very bottom center. The frozen leg photo was taken from left-rear of the second shot. The head (center bottom) gets much larger in photo #2. The fuzzy leg was taken too close to accommodate the same ss used in photo #! The eye don't lie (=;

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Jan 20, 2015 17:53:51   #
coco1964 Loc: Winsted Mn
 
Short and sweet you need a faster lens to get constantly get good shots!! When I shoot gymnastics I use a 50mm, 1.8 lens or a 70-200, 2.8 lens which usually hangs at my side!! I have that Tamron lens and for outside shooting it works great but you take it in a gym and it will focus slowly and need an ISO that will give you very grainy photos. Up until last year I shot for the newspaper and a baseball magazine so I did have press passes to get in position for good shots but fell in love with my 50mm and let my feet do the zooming!! Here are a few shots from my collection---see what you think.......


(Download)


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Jan 20, 2015 18:15:37   #
davidrb Loc: Half way there on the 45th Parallel
 
coco1964 wrote:
Short and sweet you need a faster lens to get constantly get good shots!! When I shoot gymnastics I use a 50mm, 1.8 lens or a 70-200, 2.8 lens which usually hangs at my side!! I have that Tamron lens and for outside shooting it works great but you take it in a gym and it will focus slowly and need an ISO that will give you very grainy photos. Up until last year I shot for the newspaper and a baseball magazine so I did have press passes to get in position for good shots but fell in love with my 50mm and let my feet do the zooming!! Here are a few shots from my collection---see what you think.......
Short and sweet you need a faster lens to get cons... (show quote)


Your shutter speed allowed you to freeze the athlete in motion in each photograph.

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Jan 20, 2015 19:01:08   #
coco1964 Loc: Winsted Mn
 
davidrb wrote:
Your shutter speed allowed you to freeze the athlete in motion in each photograph.
Exactly and in gyms trying to use a 3.5-6mm telephoto you'll go nuts trying to get that SS up while keeping your ISO down to prevent excess noise. I guess my bottom line is get a faster lens and stop trying to do something this lens is not capable of doing!! I must admit I didn't look into what that camera's low light capability is and I know nothing about Canon cameras since all I shoot are Nikons. These were shot with a D7000........

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Jan 21, 2015 00:03:57   #
Jakebrake Loc: Broomfield, Colorado
 
OregonSue wrote:
I SOOOOOOOOOOO appreciat all your help. Still working on it. THANK YOU MUCHO!!!!!!


Here's my Clyde. How about posting a picture of Bruiser? :thumbup:



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Jan 21, 2015 13:20:46   #
coco1964 Loc: Winsted Mn
 
Jakebrake wrote:
Here's my Clyde. How about posting a picture of Bruiser? :thumbup:
Just out of curiosity, does this photo look sharp to you??

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