need professional advise
Oct 6, 2014 15:47:56 #
I am not expert by any means.. I think I am one step above a novice. I shot this photo with a Olympus 420 e. Which does not have image stabilizer... in manual mode and my settings were iso 400, f6.3, shutter speed, 1/400 and at 179mm. The day was very cloudy with rain off and on. Try setting the camera on program and shoot a shot. check the settings that the camera decided to use and see if that's what you are after... good luck
Oct 6, 2014 18:52:59 #
And you truly expect to get better Rodeo shots than the ones you posted. Good Luck. Rodeo action is fast, low light, and unpredictable.
Both my Sister and my Nephew are active rodeo event riders. Have never seen images much better than those you posted. On an 8 second Bronc ride, there is no time for much manual overriding and mechanics.
Again, Good luck, or try SCCA racing events... Don't stand in the track or on the outside exit of corners.
Both my Sister and my Nephew are active rodeo event riders. Have never seen images much better than those you posted. On an 8 second Bronc ride, there is no time for much manual overriding and mechanics.
Again, Good luck, or try SCCA racing events... Don't stand in the track or on the outside exit of corners.
Oct 6, 2014 20:28:21 #
Kuzano wrote:
And you truly expect to get better Rodeo shots than the ones you posted. Good Luck. Rodeo action is fast, low light, and unpredictable.
Both my Sister and my Nephew are active rodeo event riders. Have never seen images much better than those you posted. On an 8 second Bronc ride, there is no time for much manual overriding and mechanics.
Again, Good luck, or try SCCA racing events... Don't stand in the track or on the outside exit of corners.
Both my Sister and my Nephew are active rodeo event riders. Have never seen images much better than those you posted. On an 8 second Bronc ride, there is no time for much manual overriding and mechanics.
Again, Good luck, or try SCCA racing events... Don't stand in the track or on the outside exit of corners.
Best rodeo photos on UHH are done by ACE-MT.
Oct 8, 2014 17:21:30 #
Just a layman here...as other readers have mentioned, if you are truly in manual you have full control over your camera. Unlike our old film SLR we were stuck with which ever ISO film sensitivity we decided to use in the camera. Personally I've never purchased a roll higher than 1600. With your t5i digital you can set your ISO from 100-12800 sensitivity and it extends to ISO 25600. You mentioned AV which makes me think you were aperture priority/value. Which means that even though you were setting you aperture wide open you were allowing you camera to do the thinking by automatically setting you Shutter speed to get a proper exposure. Set you dial to M to have full manual control over Aperture and Shutter to get the depth of field your looking for and the level of 'stop action', then ISO adjust your ISO to make up for the low light if applicable.
On a side note your t5i is newer than you 50D which Canon stopped manufacturing around 2010. So it's possibly a 6 year old camera. It's ISO capacity is 1003200 (6400 and 12800 with custom function)
I have an 8 year old XTI, 4 year old 50D, and a 2 year old t3i.
On a side note your t5i is newer than you 50D which Canon stopped manufacturing around 2010. So it's possibly a 6 year old camera. It's ISO capacity is 1003200 (6400 and 12800 with custom function)
I have an 8 year old XTI, 4 year old 50D, and a 2 year old t3i.
Nov 7, 2014 18:02:27 #
These were taken a number of years ago at the night rodeo in Cody, WY, using a Canon 40D (so an old body w/o good low light sensitivity) and a 70-200L f2.8:
http://allenh.zenfolio.com/p472514235
This was in very low light as the night progressed, so I had to use ISO 1600 eventually. They had quite a bit of noise, but that could be removed.
http://allenh.zenfolio.com/p472514235
This was in very low light as the night progressed, so I had to use ISO 1600 eventually. They had quite a bit of noise, but that could be removed.
Nov 10, 2014 09:22:13 #
Sorry to be this late to the discussion, however, I didn't see a couple of things in the excellent responses, and thought I might comment.
1. Prime lenses are generally less expensive than zooms, or generally have a wider aperture for less money.
I am not saying a prime is the way to go for rodeo, but a Canon 70-200 f/2.8L is $2,300 at B&H today while the Canon 200mm f/2.8L is "only" $780. That is significant and if you are going to be shooting at the full zoom 200mm anyway and then cropping, the less expensive lens is the way to go.
A lot of hobbyist sports photography is done from the stands, not from the sidelines, and therefore many of us us crop pretty heavily. So why not go with the sharpest lens you can, and that is a prime.
2. As for noise, it is better to have a grainy photo that has no blur (if freezing the action is your goal) than to have a blurry photo. Remember that most of your photos will probably be seen scaled way do to fit a web page or a 4X6 print, which in and of itself reduces the effects of the noise.
As has already been said, sports photography is the exception to the rule that equipment is not as important as the artistry of the shot. Sports requires lenses that let in lots of light and cameras with the ability to deal with high ISO. But unless you expect the cover of Sports Illustrated, bump up your ISO and enjoy freezing the action.
I have heard one of the top sports photographers in the US say that cropping is unavoidable. Because sports means capturing the shot, not making the photo. Well, for most of us anyway.
1. Prime lenses are generally less expensive than zooms, or generally have a wider aperture for less money.
I am not saying a prime is the way to go for rodeo, but a Canon 70-200 f/2.8L is $2,300 at B&H today while the Canon 200mm f/2.8L is "only" $780. That is significant and if you are going to be shooting at the full zoom 200mm anyway and then cropping, the less expensive lens is the way to go.
A lot of hobbyist sports photography is done from the stands, not from the sidelines, and therefore many of us us crop pretty heavily. So why not go with the sharpest lens you can, and that is a prime.
2. As for noise, it is better to have a grainy photo that has no blur (if freezing the action is your goal) than to have a blurry photo. Remember that most of your photos will probably be seen scaled way do to fit a web page or a 4X6 print, which in and of itself reduces the effects of the noise.
As has already been said, sports photography is the exception to the rule that equipment is not as important as the artistry of the shot. Sports requires lenses that let in lots of light and cameras with the ability to deal with high ISO. But unless you expect the cover of Sports Illustrated, bump up your ISO and enjoy freezing the action.
I have heard one of the top sports photographers in the US say that cropping is unavoidable. Because sports means capturing the shot, not making the photo. Well, for most of us anyway.
Nov 14, 2014 08:25:21 #
Nightski wrote:
Not sure, but I think the Canon 7D Mk II might be better for sports than the 6D. It has 65 AF points and goes to ISO 16,000. The 6D has 11 points and only one cross hair point. Plus the crop sensor on the 7D is going to have more reach, so you can go with a shorter lens. They are pretty comparible in price, so I guess it depends on what you want to use it for.
I think the operative phrase here is Mk II. I saw a review where there is a considerable amount of difference between the 7D and the 7D Mk II
Jan 8, 2015 12:10:55 #
jgreco wrote:
Recent trip to rodeo and used Canon T5i and not ha... (show quote)
I shot rodeo professionally for about 10-years for folks like
ESPN, Fox Sports and the major networks and there is no solution because the building light is normally so poor.
At the National Finals Rodeo in Las Vegas, which I worked for several years, the last time for Fox Sports, the still photographers came in at least 3-day ahead of time. They placed slave flash units, big powerful ones, around the arena. When they shot the entire arena "blew up" with light. That was the only way they could get clean photos of rodeo. Unless it's outdoors your camera, any camera, will behave exactly the same way.
It's not about the equipment, it's about the light because exposure, shutter speed, ISO are the same on any camera made - the nature of the beast.
Jan 8, 2015 19:35:29 #
jgreco wrote:
Recent trip to rodeo and used Canon T5i and not ha... (show quote)
In the Canon line the best cropsensor camera ffor sports and action is the 7dMK11. With a 2.8 70-200 sigma or tamron lens you will have the best outfit for sports. Problem is the over $3000 that the rig sells for.
Jan 11, 2015 14:17:29 #
One solution to the price issue is to rent a lens. I rented a Canon 100-600 L series zoom for a trip to Costa Rica for a very reasonable price. Rent a fast 2.8 lens for a week and learn how to use it before your trip. Much cheaper than investing thousands into glass you may only use a few times a year.
Or maybe it was the 100-400mm lens. It's been a while so I don't remember. It was worth it. Much better than my kit 200mm zoom.
Or maybe it was the 100-400mm lens. It's been a while so I don't remember. It was worth it. Much better than my kit 200mm zoom.
Jan 11, 2015 14:36:12 #
Nightski wrote:
No tackling with the girls .. and you should know better Steve .. you know in America there is absolutely no contact unless we have our kids bundled up good with plenty of padding. LOL Heck .. I'm surprised they don't have to wear helmets for dodgeball!
I don't think they even allow dodgeball in California.
Jan 11, 2015 19:55:24 #
There's lots of great advice here and it seems that basic unfamiliarity with the gear is a big part of the issue. Personally, I think the shots are quite decent, considering everything. Did you consider that some motion blur indicates action and movement in an image? It's not always a bad thing.
There's a great book on the subject that might enlighten you, if shooting action is your passion. It's called "Understanding Shutter Speed: Creative Action and Low-Light Photography Beyond 1/125 Second"
When I shoot movement in compromised lighting situations, a strobe is essential equipment, along with a fast lens. My go-to lens for action shots is the Canon 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS II. Along with my 600EX coupled to a flash bracket. Of course, you have to be fairly close for the flash to be effective, which varies, depending on the flash output, focal length, f-stop, etc.
You can continue to get great results with your existing gear, however, with a bit of knowledge. Consider checking out the book. And remember that some motion blur and grain adds to certain photos when shooting action and sports. Good luck.
There's a great book on the subject that might enlighten you, if shooting action is your passion. It's called "Understanding Shutter Speed: Creative Action and Low-Light Photography Beyond 1/125 Second"
When I shoot movement in compromised lighting situations, a strobe is essential equipment, along with a fast lens. My go-to lens for action shots is the Canon 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS II. Along with my 600EX coupled to a flash bracket. Of course, you have to be fairly close for the flash to be effective, which varies, depending on the flash output, focal length, f-stop, etc.
You can continue to get great results with your existing gear, however, with a bit of knowledge. Consider checking out the book. And remember that some motion blur and grain adds to certain photos when shooting action and sports. Good luck.
Jan 12, 2015 10:44:32 #
lporrel
Loc: California
The T5i is a nice camera, but you are going to have to make choice.
What you would ideally have is fast shutter speed (1/1000+), shallow depth of field (F/4 or less), and low ISO (1600 or less on an APS-C camera such as yours).
Unfortunately, your images with those setting on that camera would probably be too dark to rescue.
You can't have fast shutter speed, shallow depth of field, and low ISO.
The easiest thing to fix (to a point) is noise. Using LightRoom (or another tool), you can clean up even 6400 ISO noise pretty nicely. You can't fix blur, and increasing exposure more than a stop or so is also problematic.
Here, then, are the settings that I would use.
-Spot or center focus.
-Focus tracking (or whatever Canon calls it) enabled.
-Auto ISO limited at 3200 or 6400 (test to see if you can get by with 3200).
-1/1000 shutter speed.
-F/4 for shallow depth of field if I could manage to get focus fast enough. Otherwise, I'd work my way to as small as I would need to get a long enough depth of field to get my shots. On this last point, if you have a longer depth of field (smaller aperture), focus will not need to be as spot on.
To get the shot, I'd lock on the rider by aiming and depressing the shutter half way, and then I'd shoot at an opportune moment.
One other, more advanced technique would involve using back button focus. That would enable you to keep a lock on your subject through multiple captures. In contrast, with focus tied to the shutter release, the camera has to recapture focus for each shot.
What you would ideally have is fast shutter speed (1/1000+), shallow depth of field (F/4 or less), and low ISO (1600 or less on an APS-C camera such as yours).
Unfortunately, your images with those setting on that camera would probably be too dark to rescue.
You can't have fast shutter speed, shallow depth of field, and low ISO.
The easiest thing to fix (to a point) is noise. Using LightRoom (or another tool), you can clean up even 6400 ISO noise pretty nicely. You can't fix blur, and increasing exposure more than a stop or so is also problematic.
Here, then, are the settings that I would use.
-Spot or center focus.
-Focus tracking (or whatever Canon calls it) enabled.
-Auto ISO limited at 3200 or 6400 (test to see if you can get by with 3200).
-1/1000 shutter speed.
-F/4 for shallow depth of field if I could manage to get focus fast enough. Otherwise, I'd work my way to as small as I would need to get a long enough depth of field to get my shots. On this last point, if you have a longer depth of field (smaller aperture), focus will not need to be as spot on.
To get the shot, I'd lock on the rider by aiming and depressing the shutter half way, and then I'd shoot at an opportune moment.
One other, more advanced technique would involve using back button focus. That would enable you to keep a lock on your subject through multiple captures. In contrast, with focus tied to the shutter release, the camera has to recapture focus for each shot.
Jan 22, 2015 21:58:37 #
Setting your camera to Manual gives you 100% control over each and every aspect of your photographic endeavors.
Jan 23, 2015 17:49:38 #
Erv wrote:
I would add, I think it is time to get the manual out again and maybe a few books that are written for your camera. And then sit and read while playing with your camera. I just got the Nikon D600 and did this for about a week before taking the camera outside.:)
Erv
OH, I still don't have a clue about what all the darn thing can do.:)
Erv
OH, I still don't have a clue about what all the darn thing can do.:)
:thumbup: :thumbup:
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