Here I've been away for just over 24 hours and I'm amazed at the number of posts that have come in on this thread. I started out bragging about achieving the starburst in my photo, even though the overall quality of the photo certainly would not win me any competition (unless it's a competition for worst photo).
But to all of you posting here with some excellent information, I thank you very much. I am determined to perfect this process of getting the starbursts in my photos.
I am answering a number of you all in this one posting, I hope it doesn't come across in too big a jumble.
NealB wrote:
Buy some silicone or nitrile sheet at least 3/4" thick that is a maximum durometer of 40 Shore A. Cut in to 4"X4" squares and place under each leg. The materials should cost between $5.00 to $10.00.
Neal, I imagine that these squares would work as a vibration damper?
I have no idea what "durometer of 40 Shore A" means. I tried to Google it, but that seems a hopeless task.
What kind of store would I find this material?
Gene51 wrote:
Lots of advice here, but may ask, what lens, camera and tripod are you using?
Lens: Olympus M. Zuiko Digital ED 12-40mm f/2.8 PRO
Camera: Olympus OM-D E-M1
Tripod: Manfrotto O55XPROB, Head 498RC2, Shopping bag with some weight (3 2-litre bottles of pop).
I'm postponing posting an image till I see some improvement. Don't forget that this was the first time ever I even attempted to get the starbursts - and I'm still mighty proud of myself for at least getting that!
Apaflo wrote:
That is correct, and using a lens with non-rounded diaphragm blades, stopped down to at least f/22 will help.
When I take the lens off the camera and hold it up to a lightsource, it seems that the aperture opening has straight edges. I just wish it was bigger, so I could see it better....
Interesting about the cumulative effect of different kinds of vibrations!
dcampbell52 wrote:
I would also try around your house on solid ground if you can.
I may try the driveway tomorrow night. Not tonight, as we're kind of expecting company and I don't want the tripod in the way should they arrive while I'm out there.
As to a remote release, I have a remote cable release, and love it. I'm sure that cable would not add any vibrations, my finger pushing down the shutter release button would cause more vibration.
dsmeltz wrote:
Notice you are on the west coast. Are you located on a fault line?
We're close to the Cascadia Fault, which I believe is part of the Pacific Ring of Fire. I have felt at least 4 or 5 earthquakes since I've lived in BC, the most notable was the one that did a good bit of damage in Seattle, WA.
chaprick wrote:
Can you move just inside the door that leads out to the deck and therefore have a bit more stable foundation?? I realize that may not be facing the direction of the view you are trying to capture.
No, not an option as an evergreen tree would then obscure the lights I am trying to catch.
huskyrider705 wrote:
Don't know if you can do this with Nikon but if you can, set your camera to live view on the LCD screen and magnify 10x and you will be able to see if you are getting vibrations especially at longer focal lengths.
I don't know either if you can do this Nikon or not, doesn't matter anyway as I shoot Olympus. And yes, I can shoot in live view, and I can magnify (part of) the image before shooting.
sprocket wrote:
Lock the mirror.Do all the proper camera adjustments and most importantly, DO NOT WALK AWAY OR MOVE.
I'm not going to be too fussy about shock-absorption on the deck. Although I will bookmark this entire thread, there's some good info about vibration and shock.
As to locking the mirror: That's one thing I don't need to worry about, the camera I'm using for this doesn't have one ;)
wj cody wrote:
good luck with your night imaging. try lowering your iso and keeping your shutter open for an hour - the results are sometimes rather stunning.
And not walk away... ???
Next summer we'll likely travel through the Rockies again, nice solid rocky ground, yea, I might try a long exposure like that there. No problem with city lights either, unless we're too close to Jasper, Banff or Lake Louise ;-)
Wickspics wrote:
If you use a Tri-Pod go to your lens and turn OFF the Stabilizer ; if not off when on tri-pod it will cause blur.
Going to my lens won't do much good, as the image stabilization is built into my camera body. Interesting though, that it has also been suggested to keep IS on, because of the vibration caused by things other than my shaky hands. Something to experiment with as well.
big ed wrote:
Hi Morning Star... If you are taking images of stars I recommend that your shutter speed be less than 10sec (unless you are taking images of star trails) otherwise your images will be blurred due to the rotation of the earth..... good luck...
Actually no, at this time I'm not interested in taking photos of stars. the interest is in taking photos of lights (porch lights, street lights, etc) and have them show up as stars in the photo.