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Nov 9, 2021 07:36:08   #
Capn_Dave
 
Walkabout08 wrote:
As an avid sailor and race officer for national one design competitions my advice is you really need to be on a chase boat to get the kinds of shots you’ll find in the yachting magazines. Preferably with a driver so you can shoot and have the driver position you to take the shots people will love. The classics shots will be at the windward mark approach with crew setting up for the spinnaker set, at the leeward mark where the spinnaker takedowns create a lot of excitement and be on the lookout for the close starboard/port tack crosssings. The 100/400 lens should be your choice on the water. Good luck!
As an avid sailor and race officer for national on... (show quote)


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Nov 9, 2021 07:49:23   #
george19
 
I tried shooting a 12 meter race years ago (retired America’s Cup boats kept in Newport). We were able to move about the course, and I used my 70-300.

This is a lens I really don’t use very often, but it made the day last week when I shot photos of a slow moving train. Even pretty close I appreciated the reach.

So…I’d take the 100-400, considering you’re on the committee boat. Starts and finishes will be key, plus spinnaker flying and dousing and turns if that boat is used at the leeward mark.

If you can get some manner of splash protection, you might ask about getting on the mark/chase/aux boat, assuming they are smaller inflatables. That could get you some good shots at the windward mark, and get you some flexibility with sunlight.

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Nov 9, 2021 07:59:57   #
nervous2 Loc: Provo, Utah
 
CHG_CANON wrote:
Your 100-400L is the best choice. The 2x is worthless on this lens. Bring the 5DIV with the 100-400L. Only if you were really really far from the action consider adding the 1.4x (that you also brought), but you should be fine at 400mm and the high resolution of the EOS 5DIV if you find you need to crop into the details for a more compelling image.

Your focus, exposure and panning / tracking skills will be more important to overall success than which of these top-tier bodies and lens combos used.
Your 100-400L is the best choice. The 2x is worthl... (show quote)


Very good points IMHO. I would be tempted also to affix a good 35mm prime to the second camera to be able to grab it if the opportunity presents itself. I would look forward to seeing some shots here on UHH.

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Nov 9, 2021 08:08:40   #
magpix Loc: St. Michaels, MD
 
I’m a retired photojournalist for the boating industry so I’ve shot many, many sailing events. Your 70-200 and 100-400 will cover most shots.I wouldn’t bother with a tele. Also, you have to be careful because the longer the lens, the more shake and boat motion you’ll have to deal with by increasing your ISO.Keep your shutter speeds to 1/1500 or more. Also, if your chase boat or committee boat is closer to the action, a 24-70 comes in handy. Just find a secure, dry place for your camera bag and a protected spot where you can quickly change lenses. Have fun!

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Nov 9, 2021 08:13:32   #
Thomas902 Loc: Washington DC
 
While not a nautical fan I did shoot a National Hunter/Jumper competition in Northern VA recently...
To my surprise I found myself on the media riser next to a highly skilled Drone Pilot...
I am humbled by what he accomplished... forever changed my "Attitude" about "Drones".

While not germane to the OP's initial attempt I honestly believe Drones could have much merit for covering Yachting Races.

Like Arthur Fellig said... f8 and be there... Just a thought...

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Nov 9, 2021 08:31:11   #
colt4x5 Loc: Central Connecticut
 
Agree that the committee boat is not the place to shoot a race from. For some guidance, check out the work of Norris D. Hoyt. He was a high school teacher of mine (taught me B&W printing) who said his favorite lens was the old Nikon 50-300. He shot color transparencies, always worked from a chase boat, and always had amazing results. There's a photo of him with something much smaller than the old 50-300 – possibly an 80-200. (Google "Norris D. Hoyt" Dolphins.) His book "Addicted to Sail" holds some of his best photos, and is probably available from an online used-book seller at a pretty good price by now.
By all means, have fun!

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Nov 9, 2021 08:35:01   #
Xanadu Loc: Clay County FL
 
I agree. Get off the committee boat. The action is seldom in the proximity of the committee boat. As for lenses, I also defer to previous advice.
I have spent many hours shooting regattas as well as "cruisers". There is nothing more boring than a beam shot of a sailboat. Shots from the rear or forward quarter convey a sense of action with or without the setting or dousing of a spinnaker. This same approach tends (in my opinion) to show off the beauty of the hulls and the sails. Stern and bow shots can can do the same but are less effective
After you have done it a few times, you will begin to anticipate where the next good shot will materialize. As usual, it is less about your equipment than it is about your eye. Good luck and have fun

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Nov 9, 2021 08:47:58   #
ColonelButler Loc: Niagara-on-the-Lake ON Canada
 
I shot these this fall from the Committee boat at a regatta at our club. Used an 18-200mm. It depends upon where the leeward mark is set up with relation to the start/finish which is where the committee boat will be if you will need more reach to get the leeward mark rounding which is where the action takes place.

Given you are on a moving platform shooting moving boats, use at least 1/1000 shutter. I pick an aperture that gives enough depth of field and use auto ISO to set the exposure. Depending on the direction of the sun, you may have to play around with exposure compensation since you have a fairly bright overall scene.

https://flic.kr/s/aHsmWTbY5N

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Nov 9, 2021 08:56:37   #
maxlieberman Loc: 19027
 
If I were doing it, I would take two bodies, one with a wide angle zoom and one with a 70-300 or so zoom. I agree you should not try to switch lenses under these circumstance. If two bodies won't work, I would take a 18-300 zoom. The action and distances will not be predictable, so you need to be prepared for every eventuality.

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Nov 9, 2021 09:00:59   #
davidrb Loc: Half way there on the 45th Parallel
 
Prime lenses have their times and places. Your needs do not seem to fit those two criteria. Zooms represent flexibility, and you need all of that you can get. Consider using both bodies with the best lens. The Mk IV is your primary body here so dress it accordingly. Have fun, this may be a very rare opportunity.

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Nov 9, 2021 09:03:13   #
Mjump54
 
Walkabout08 wrote:
As an avid sailor and race officer for national one design competitions my advice is you really need to be on a chase boat to get the kinds of shots you’ll find in the yachting magazines. Preferably with a driver so you can shoot and have the driver position you to take the shots people will love. The classics shots will be at the windward mark approach with crew setting up for the spinnaker set, at the leeward mark where the spinnaker takedowns create a lot of excitement and be on the lookout for the close starboard/port tack crosssings. The 100/400 lens should be your choice on the water. Good luck!
As an avid sailor and race officer for national on... (show quote)


Thanks!!! This is what I was looking for planning.
Someone else here mentioned polarized filter. Would the be preferable over a neutral density filter?

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Nov 9, 2021 09:08:56   #
Chadp Loc: Virginia Beach
 
Walkabout08 wrote:
As an avid sailor and race officer for national one design competitions my advice is you really need to be on a chase boat to get the kinds of shots you’ll find in the yachting magazines. Preferably with a driver so you can shoot and have the driver position you to take the shots people will love. The classics shots will be at the windward mark approach with crew setting up for the spinnaker set, at the leeward mark where the spinnaker takedowns create a lot of excitement and be on the lookout for the close starboard/port tack crosssings. The 100/400 lens should be your choice on the water. Good luck!
As an avid sailor and race officer for national on... (show quote)


Sailboat racing is my first Hobby. Photography is second. I agree with all of this. The starboard/port crossings are going to give you some nice shots but you are not likely to see them at the start line from the committee boat. The finish line is usually at the committee boat, but may not be depending on how the course is set. The chase boat is your best option. But if you have to shoot from the committee boat then focus a lot on pre race. There will be a lot of maneuvering for position by each boat and you will be close to that action. You will have 5 minutes (usually) of good photo opportunities during the start sequence.

And I don’t know where you are located. We continue racing through the winter in the mid Atlantic area as long as the water at the dock is not frozen. Plan on it being significantly colder than you think.

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Nov 9, 2021 09:10:12   #
Mjump54
 
davidrb wrote:
Prime lenses have their times and places. Your needs do not seem to fit those two criteria. Zooms represent flexibility, and you need all of that you can get. Consider using both bodies with the best lens. The Mk IV is your primary body here so dress it accordingly. Have fun, this may be a very rare opportunity.


“Dress it accordingly”
Do you recommend lens “skins” to protect against the elements? I have Think Tank rain gear but would find that clumsy in this area

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Nov 9, 2021 09:31:03   #
mikegreenwald Loc: Illinois
 
Typically the committee boat is placed at the start/finish line. You can get some nice shots there, but if you can arrange a dedicated photo boat with a knowledgeable skipper and speed to move around the course, action shots near the turning buoys can be super attractive. Mid leg sail changes (usually with wind shifts or wind speed changes) are great for action shots.
A knowledgeable skipper is NECESSARY both to be where the action is, and to avoid interfering with the race!

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Nov 9, 2021 09:32:25   #
BobHartung Loc: Bettendorf, IA
 
Wasabi wrote:
Get a good handle on where the committee boat will locate in relation to the racers, the turns ,and the finish. Then you can figure what lenses you will need to catch the action. Limited knowledge and experience but two bodies with appropriate lens would appeal to me.

Wasabi


Two bodies for sure. If avoidable, you don't want to be changing lenses in a wet environment.

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