TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

Yes - take the polarizer.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

If you're not familiar with a polarizer, you might not want to add that complication as you need to make small adjustments to it's position as you change direction shooting. The hood for the 100-400L II is designed to help in this matter, but you might need to be more focused on the action.

I wouldn't take two cameras onto water either, unless I had them both fully insured at their replacement value.

I'd trust my Canon EOS Image Stabilization technology, especially of the 100-400L II. You need to shoot fast enough to freeze the action, but not so fast as to raise the ISO unnecessarily, trying to compensate for boat movement that the IS is plenty capable of handling.

RolandDieter

When shooting any sport it is extremely critical to know the sport. It sounds as if this is unfamiliar territory for you, and you say it is a high level of competition. If they are just letting you shoot as a friendly gesture you are OK; if they want to shoot officially or semi-officially for them you are not yet ready. Try going to a similar event before the one you are shooting and pay attention to what the boats are doing: raising/lowering spinnakers, leaning in the wind, positions of the crews, etc.) in addition to paying attention to the equipment choices you want to make for the shoot. As Yogi Berra put it, "You can learn a lot by looking." And will you be shooting large boats or small day two-person open boats? The former will be quite far away and the latter will usually be closer to you on smaller courses. Go to a library or large book store and try browsing through photo books with similar boats to those you will be shooting. Good luck.

Mjump54

Initially I will be shooting a couple of “lake” smaller boat events. Could lead to larger venues on Lake Michigan and off Atlantic Coast. I understand basic sailing and am all ready perusing the “money” shots on various sites and Getty. Human emotions and action are core to any sporting shoots. Just trying to have right gear in hand.
Thanks

stevefrankel

I've done several thousand yacht racing photos from the California Yacht Club's committee boat in Marina del Rey, CA. The trick is, especially when the boats are coming to you head-on, you will need to get a photo from as much as 100' away, then a series of otherss as they approach you, and a shot from as little as 3' from the stern as they come up around the committee boat. This means that you have to be shooting with a full range zoom (24mm- 200mm is ideal) and the camera has to be weather-resistant since you can't avoid splashes inside the cockpit. Shoot from the cockpit in the stern at water level. A few ice-chests along the side or above the swim step are ideal if you want to shoot braced against the gunnels (sides). I used to shoot with a single Olympus zoom; now I'd happily use my Sony RX10 since it has a 24-600mm lens, autofocus automatically shoots more than 10 frames a second, and is weather-resistant. Be sure to get lots of shots of the racers onboard and the names of their boats. I used to show my shots unedited at the parties after the races ended. I also used to post the shots online so owners could get a few nice shots of their boats.

stevefrankel

Just a few more words. Your best shots will be done from 3-20' away with a wide-angle setting such as 35mm. This permits you to take advantage of the fact that the committee boat is in the middle of the fray. Sometimes huge 60' yachts only miss the committee boat's stern by as little as 3 feet, and as they pass alongside you they are only about 10' away. These are the money-shots that everyone wants.

Mjump54

Thanks!!! Great insight. So maybe two cameras. One with a 24-105 and the other with the 100-400 mm

Coach Ken Loc: Reading, MA

Most of my 50k sailboat pictures are from the committee boat since I run races for a living. Though not nearly as ideal as a separate boat, plenty of great shots can come from the RC boat, particularly if they run windward or upwind finishes. Then you can get close up shots at the finish including up close face shots and close crossings. If they are running downwind finishes, considering hitching a brief ride on a chase boat but bring extra foul weather gear to protect your equipment.

It takes the right weather to get a quantity of good shots. Ideally the wind is a strong SSW wind coming from the same direction as the sun. Ideally it is windy as the sailors will be hiking out further away from their own sails.

For starts, get right up in the bow to get the shot of all the boats lined up. For finishes either climb up to the top or shoot from down low in the cockpit, without distracting the finish team.

What regatta are you shooting?

RCJets Loc: Virginia

Walkabout is correct. To get good action photos of a regatta, you need to on the course, not on the committee boat which is usually at the start-finish line. And the bigger the better (the boat you're on) to reduce the rocking. It's very difficult to get a sharp focus on a boat that is moving a lot. Where will this race be held. Fresh or salt water? A lake or river will be much calmer than say the ocean or large bay. This will have a lot to do with the decision you make on what lens to use. The closer you can get to the action, the better, and the less you will need a long lens.
Good luck!

nathanweddings

To me the most important is to use the highest ISO possible to minimize camera movement.

JhnMhn

Have shot races like this and agree your 100-400 is likely all you’ll need. But, if racers come as close to the boat you will be on as they have to me, a second body with a 24-70 ish zoom will be very useful.

Crweber Loc: West Chester, PA

This good advice and bring plenty of lens cleaner!

Bob from Newport Beach Loc: Newport Beach, Ca

Yes, I have been taking sailing pictures for many years. Here are a few quick thoughts. For inside the bay, a 70-300 mm is enough magnification; while in the ocean a 100-400 mm is better. Get really good at hand holding the lens. Shoot at about 1/700 sec inside, and 1/1500 outside in the ocean. Float the aperture if necessary. Don't shoot all sailboats, concentrate on the sailors and the action. Get in front of the sailors so you see their faces and record their expressions. Get a good boat driver so you can move around the course and into the best vantage points.

photogeneralist Loc: Lopez Island Washington State

I.m a avid amateur photog with a wall full of sailing trophies. I vote for JohnD3's response. Your 100-400 on a high resolution body should do the trick. If they get too close for an overalll shot, just get the facial expressions. Best not to get involved with lens changes while the action is hot.

photogeneralist Loc: Lopez Island Washington State

I.m a avid amateur photog with a wall full of sailing trophies. I vote for JohnD3's response. Your 100-400 on a high resolution body should do the trick. If they get too close for an overalll shot, just get the facial expressions. Best not to get involved with lens changes while the action is hot.