Sorry but that's wrong on both counts. Sunny 16 is not significantly affected by season or altitude for the first two miles above sea level (more than 10,000 feet). That's higher than we can go and breath without an oxygen tank.

To learn more about this take a look at Effect of Direct Sunlight on Photographic Exposure.

The seasons and time of day can attenuate the sunlight if it comes in at an angle, the sharper the angle the more air it needs to pass through. When the sun drops to about 30° from the horizon the light is blocked by about 1/3 stop, not enough to make much difference.

I look at the subject and decide what aperture I want to use, sometimes that's a function of the lens already mounted, but usually I already selected the lens for the aperture and focal length I plan to use for the subject / situations.

Say I want to use f/5 for a given situation, I'd also like to stay at the lowest ISO possible. So, I adjust the shutterspeed to obtain a sharp image or raise the ISO to get the shutterspeed needed for the composition.

Finally, as mentioned on your question about metering mode, I also want the meter to read +0.7 to +1 in most every situation. So, the f/5 with ISO-100 may not matter whether I'm at 1/500 or 1/320, except the slower speed serves to push the meter to the right.

I don't 'judge the light' deciding what exposure is needed. Rather, I decide my artistic intent via the aperture and focal length of the lens. I adjust the shutterspeed and ISO to use that pre-selected aperture.

For some people it seems shutterspeed is their primary driver, others it seems to be shoot at ISO-100 or don't shoot at all. The aperture is the driver for me, whether in manual or aperture priority or even with a manual aperture lens on a mirrorless where I always set the aperture first and adjust from there.

For those of us who used to use film and had to estimate exposure on the fly, there are a couple of quick and dirty rules. First, many of us used an ASA that was half of what was recommended, so Tri-X rated at ASA 400 would be used at ISO 200. Then, 1/125 at f/16 for direct sunlight. 1/60 at f/11 (plus 2 stops) for cloudy bright. 1/60 at f/8 for open shade. 1/60 at f/5.6 for closed shade. After that, you wing it.

I'd generally walk around with my camera set at 1/60 at f/11, from which it was easy to open it up one or two stops, or close it down, as necessary. And I always erred in the direction of overexposure, because if the detail falls beneath the threshold, you've lost it forever, and you get a blank black.

Digital doesn't really have a threshold, and it has wider latitude.

Just did it this morning: https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-711661-4.html#12559497 and the camera was in Program mode.
I'm always amazed how you know more details about my life than I know myself! Been doing panoramas for decades. Used to have one of these that attached to my Rolleiflex: https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/pict/183745047861_/Rollei-panoramakopf-tripod-camera-panorama-head-bubble-level.jpg -- loved it.

Below is an old one I shot of the river bend at Lansing Iowa (film).

Again here's the ignorant thing that you said: "You can't use any form of auto exposure if you are going to make a panorama." https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-711661-3.html#12559342
And here's you contradicting that in this same thread: "On auto anything it only works if you start at the end with the clouds and lock in that exposure." https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-711661-4.html#12559615

Blow all the smoke you want, what you said was wrong and you said so yourself.

I look at the subject and decide what aperture I want to use, sometimes that's a function of the lens already mounted, but usually I already selected the lens for the aperture and focal length I plan to use for the subject / situations.

Say I want to use f/5 for a given situation, I'd also like to stay at the lowest ISO possible. So, I adjust the shutterspeed to obtain a sharp image or raise the ISO to get the shutterspeed needed for the composition.

Finally, as mentioned on your question about metering mode, I also want the meter to read +0.7 to +1 in most every situation. So, the f/5 with ISO-100 may not matter whether I'm at 1/500 or 1/320, except the slower speed serves to push the meter to the right.

I don't 'judge the light' deciding what exposure is needed. Rather, I decide my artistic intent via the aperture and focal length of the lens. I adjust the shutterspeed and ISO to use that pre-selected aperture.

For some people it seems shutterspeed is their primary driver, others it seems to be shoot at ISO-100 or don't shoot at all. The aperture is the driver for me, whether in manual or aperture priority or even with a manual aperture lens on a mirrorless where I always set the aperture first and adjust from there.

I look at the subject and decide what aperture I want to use, sometimes that's a function of the lens already mounted, but usually I already selected the lens for the aperture and focal length I plan to use for the subject / situations.

Say I want to use f/5 for a given situation, I'd also like to stay at the lowest ISO possible. So, I adjust the shutterspeed to obtain a sharp image or raise the ISO to get the shutterspeed needed for the composition.

Finally, as mentioned on your question about metering mode, I also want the meter to read +0.7 to +1 in most every situation. So, the f/5 with ISO-100 may not matter whether I'm at 1/500 or 1/320, except the slower speed serves to push the meter to the right.

I don't 'judge the light' deciding what exposure is needed. Rather, I decide my artistic intent via the aperture and focal length of the lens. I adjust the shutterspeed and ISO to use that pre-selected aperture.

For some people it seems shutterspeed is their primary driver, others it seems to be shoot at ISO-100 or don't shoot at all. The aperture is the driver for me, whether in manual or aperture priority or even with a manual aperture lens on a mirrorless where I always set the aperture first and adjust from there.