jayluber Loc: Phoenix, AZ

If in doubt, I put camera in full auto and see what it's suggested settings are and use that as a reference. If I want a different f stop I can adjust exposure or ISo accordingly, and same for other settings. Or if I know I need a fast or slow shutter I can use that shutter and put in proper priority mode and see what camera suggests and use as a starting point.

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

Excellent philosophy.
--Bob

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lowkick Loc: Connecticut

Don't overthink things. First, start with setting your camera to auto ISO. Next, you have to decide, artistically, what you want to achieve with the picture. Is there motion? Do you need to stop the motion or do you want some blur to show motion? Or is depth of field more important? Shallow or deep depth of field? Choose either the shutter speed or the aperture you think you need to get the effect you want. Then, using the in camera meter, change the other setting until you have the proper exposure. Look at your results. These are only starting points from which to make adjustments. Too much blur? Adjust to a faster shutter speed and the appropriate f/stop. Not enough bokeh? adjust to a lower f/stop and adjust the shutter speed accordingly. Too much noise? Adjust the ISO to a lower setting and start the rest of the process over again. Keep in mind that there is rarely such a thing as perfection. Much of the time you will have to make concessions that will get you close to your intended image, but not right on the money. But that's where post processing comes in.

This is a learning curve, but if you do it enough and practice it regularly, you will start to know your camera, understand the process and be able to find starting points for your manual shots quickly and easily.

Picture Taker Loc: Michigan Thumb

Manual is a choice if you have the time and patience and like the mechanics of photography, but the other setting work fine. With knowledge of the equipment the other setting can give you the same results. I will agree that if you want to plod thru the M anual you can also get a good picture.

Ysarex Loc: St. Louis

What's the purpose of the AEL function when using a camera in full manual. Obviously it's useless in manual so it must be a function designed to work with the auto and semi-auto modes of the camera. It's a support function for a camera's auto/semi-auto modes. You're wrong that; "You can't use any form of auto exposure if you are going to make a panorama." You made that remark in response to my statement, "I mostly use my camera in Program mode and I get the same results I would otherwise get using manual mode." You're wrong that I can't use Program mode and make a panorama and get the same results I'd get using manual.

Proof: https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-711661-4.html#12559497

Picture Taker Loc: Michigan Thumb

The camera sensing system reads the view that you point the camera, and at that point you can set it to use that info and set it self (you may or should control the depth of field for the photograph) or you can manually set each point getting the information from the camera's sensors.

Orphoto Loc: Oregon

Let's see if we can add more wheat than chaff here. Assuming you have slow moving stuff for subjects, just use the in camera meter for starters. As others have mentioned think about aperture/depth of field and shutter speed/motion considerations. The other control aspect comes about as you learn how to bias the meter reading to the situations you face. In essence you are learning to dial in your own exposure compensation.

These days the evaluative metering schemes do a pretty good job, even with various colors. You will come to learn some situations call for extra or less exposure. Keep track mentally of what you notice. With time you get better at it. When in doubt, check your histogram to verify that you are on the right track. This is definitely the path to improve your craft.

Chicago312 Loc: Western suburb, Chicago

I shoot in manual pretty much most of all of the time. Used to use aperture priority, and rarely use auto-ISO. As you mentioned, after a while, you can usually get within 1-2 stops if your desired exposure.

DSLR’s - you should check your exposure periodically if the light is changing or you change positions. For example, yesterday I shot photos at the local HS cross country meet. I photographed the runnerswith the sun behind them so I could practice panning - trying to make photos of people running somewhat interesting. Occasionally I would turn around and shoot the other runners (with the sun behind me), and occasionally I would forget to adjust my settings. Operator error.
Mirrorless - you see what you get, much harder to forget to adjust settings.

I enjoy shooting manual and rarely see the need for programmed settings. Only exception is using auto iso in situations where your subject may cross to/from light areas and dark (shadow) areas and there isn’t time to make adjustments - for example, shooting track meets as the sun goes down and casts shadows on parts of the track, so you have runners going to/from bright sun to dark shadows.

User ID

You ARE still in autofocus. Other features of a camera can be affected by whether the camera is set to MF or AF. AF lock in AF mode is the opposite BBF in MF mode.

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

It's not that simple.

There are many different ways to set up autofocus. Some will prevent the shutter from tripping if the target goes out of focus and some lenses will let you override the automatic focus decision.

But full manual focus, like full manual exposure, leaves it up to the photographer.

Delderby Loc: Derby UK

If you insist on FULL manual, shoot in RAW, then when you screw up you have a better chance of saving the shot.

anotherview Loc: California

From my experience, I can say the process of manual exposure has been overrated. In addition, most of the discussion of this exposure method goes on too long and lacks clarity.

That said, I suggest you spend time learning the exposure triangle. This approach will help you understand the relation of ISO, Aperture, and Shutter Speed to exposure.

Basically, though, the subject you shoot determines the exposure setting for the best result.

For example, if you want to capture airplanes in flight at an air show, then you will want a faster shutter speed to stop the action.

As another example, capturing a flower closeup will typically require an aperture setting for depth of field, say, f/11 or even f/16 set manually. The ISO set manually could go to 100 to minimize noise. And the shutter speed could vary manually depending on several factors: wind, available light, hand held, or use of tripod.

Each of these two subjects could allow you to set the ISO manually to the lowest level -- usually 100. Then you would vary either or both of the other two exposure settings-- aperture and shutter speed.

I may've said too much here. Try reading tutorials online for informing yourself about manual settings in photography.

Bear in mind that photography presents a craft. It requires practice and more practice. The photographer must learn from his mistakes and successes.

Good luck.

BebuLamar

Manual exposure is easier than any automatic ways except when you don't have the time.

Ysarex Loc: St. Louis

That can depend to a large degree on the ergonomics of the specific camera. On my Fuji camera using manual isn't easier it's a PITA. My lenses have aperture rings with an A setting. To use them in manual I have to take them off A and turn the rings. The shutter speed in manual is a legacy-style dial on top of the camera in full stop increments. To get 1/3 stops I have to both turn that dial as well as turn the thumb wheel on the back of the camera -- PITA. Put the camera in Program mode and I control both the shutter (1/3 stops) and aperture from the single thumb wheel under my right thumb which I find much more direct and easier.

The problem with so many of these discussions is an underlying misunderstanding that to use the semi-auto modes of the camera somehow relinquishes control and to retain full control you need to use manual. For the most part (huge most part) that's incorrect. Modern cameras provide features like EC that work in the semi-auto modes and give the photographer control over the exposure parameters equivalent to what you'd get using manual. With rare exception it's just no big deal. What matters is that you set the exposure. You can do that in P, A, S, or M modes equivalently with most modern cameras.

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

Quick, maybe. Total control only if you supplement that with adjustment via the EC (exposure compensation) dial.

But Program mode that needs to be adjusted with the EC dial is a concession that Program mode on its own stands a good chance of getting it wrong.

That's no right.

Program mode simultaneously picks a shutter speed and aperture (and maybe ISO) based on what the camera is seeing. You may think you are getting the same results as you do with full Manual but that's only of you don't really care about the actual aperture, shutter speed and ISO that you end up with.

Although it may lead to an exposure and ISO close to what you want, the shutter speed or the aperture might not actually be what you want, even with an EC adjustment.

That's why you might be better off with Aperture or Shutter priority plus the possible EC adjustment. And you might want to forgo Auto ISO.