Shooting into the Sun
Mar 23, 2018 23:28:41 #
rdrechsler
Loc: Channel Islands Harbor, CA
SharpShooter wrote:
Dick, welcome to the Hog!
This is gonna be a tricky shoot.
And there is DoF to deal with. How much DoF do you want in the shot. A bokehed background will require an ND filter. Good luck
SS
This is gonna be a tricky shoot.
And there is DoF to deal with. How much DoF do you want in the shot. A bokehed background will require an ND filter. Good luck
SS
Yes. I’ve been practicing all day. Hopefully by 0830 the sun will be just high enough in the sky that I can work around it. Stay tuned
Mar 23, 2018 23:34:02 #
rdrechsler wrote:
Yes. I’ve been practicing all day. Hopefully by 0830 the sun will be just high enough in the sky that I can work around it. Stay tuned
Dick, I read later what you were trying to do. Sounds like you’ve got it under control.
I think you should take one shot where you control as much as you can and then another to make as much art out of it as you can. You’ll get two shots out of it.
I’ll post a shot a bit later that illustrates just that!
SS
Mar 24, 2018 00:34:18 #
rdrechsler
Loc: Channel Islands Harbor, CA
SharpShooter wrote:
Dick, I read later what you were trying to do. Sounds like you’ve got it under control.
I’ll post a shot a bit later that illustrates just that!
SS
I’ll post a shot a bit later that illustrates just that!
SS
Thanks. I hope so!
Mar 24, 2018 01:38:13 #
rdrechsler wrote:
Thanks. I hope so!
Dick, here are 3 shots I came up with pretty quickly.
I actually like taking these kinds of shots but they're a crapshoot because it's hard to control just what the end product will actually look like.
Only the bird shot has any exif.
Good luck with your shot!!!
SS
Mar 24, 2018 01:46:11 #
rdrechsler
Loc: Channel Islands Harbor, CA
SharpShooter wrote:
Dick, here are 3 shots I came up with pretty quickly.
Only the bird shot has any exif.
Good luck with your shot!!!
SS
Only the bird shot has any exif.
Good luck with your shot!!!
SS
The bird shot turned out great. It's gonna be interesting. I'm hoping I can find an angle to avoid the sun, but I've only got about 8 feet to move laterally at the end of the dock, so it will be tricky. These shots are for a yacht club, so they don't care if they are artistic or not, they just want me to capture the people's faces. I'm hoping I can zoom in really tight on the boat and avoid the backlight from the sun. I was thinking of taking a laddar so I can shoot down towards the boat instead of straight at it with the 0830 sun lurking nearby. I'll post some results on Monday so everyone can have a good laugh! Just kidding, hopefully I can figure it out. Thanks for taking the time to help me out. I'll pull off the EXIF data tomorrow.
Mar 24, 2018 06:20:35 #
I have just received this article about shooting into the sun from Zoner Photo Studio, which is the PP software I use.
I hope it will help you with your query:
https://learn.zoner.com/how-to-shoot-with-the-sun-in-the-frame/?utm_source=newsletter-magazine&utm_medium=mailing&utm_content=article1-button&utm_campaign=2018-03-24-newsletter-magazine
I hope it will help you with your query:
https://learn.zoner.com/how-to-shoot-with-the-sun-in-the-frame/?utm_source=newsletter-magazine&utm_medium=mailing&utm_content=article1-button&utm_campaign=2018-03-24-newsletter-magazine
Mar 24, 2018 06:31:11 #
rdrechsler wrote:
I need some pointers. I’m going to be shooting some boats on Sunday morning and the sun will be almost directly behind them. I don’t want the boats to be in silhouette because the objective is to capture the people on board. Can I get some help with settings so I don’t encounter a problem?
Backlighting is tough. Here are some potentially helpful links.
https://www.dpmag.com/how-to/shooting/exposure-solutions-balance-backlight/
https://photography.tutsplus.com/articles/mastering-backlighting--photo-9375
http://photodoto.com/backlit-photography/
Mar 24, 2018 06:52:19 #
It’s underexposed because you’re pale. Get a tan and then as it fades open up a half a stop.
Mar 24, 2018 07:06:39 #
rpavich wrote:
Meter the opposite direction off of your hand. Then set the camera manually to that setting and leave it there. No reason to have the exposure going up and down and up and down for no reason. In fact this is the way I'd shoot when the light conditions aren't changing drastically even if it wasn't sail boats or whatever; I'd meter off of my hand (or a grey card) and leave the exposure set like that until something changes drastically (like clouds roll in or something)
In cases like this I add a "custom" sun shade/hood made from a food can or plastic cup/bottle, painted flat black and deep/long enough for the tele angle of view. Hunting through grocery store shelves often provides what I need. Much cheaper than special photo gear.
Mar 24, 2018 07:08:31 #
It has been my understanding that when you meter off the palm of the hand (Caucasian) the meter reading is one stop of light less than middle tones. To make it middle tonality the exposure has to be modified opening one stop from the meter reading if an accurate exposure is what you are after. If using digital a gray card could or could not give you an accurate reading, just watch the histogram.
If those boats are going to be at a distance it is obvious that a tele is going to be needed and any lens exposed to front lighting could easily experience ghosts and flare. Do not expect a decent background but rather clipped highlights exposing for the boats and as you know if the exposure is for the background the boats will be in silhouette.
It is not an easy shooting. Good luck with your project.
If those boats are going to be at a distance it is obvious that a tele is going to be needed and any lens exposed to front lighting could easily experience ghosts and flare. Do not expect a decent background but rather clipped highlights exposing for the boats and as you know if the exposure is for the background the boats will be in silhouette.
It is not an easy shooting. Good luck with your project.
Mar 24, 2018 07:29:19 #
dennis2146 wrote:
With respect, you confused me. "A long lens is best, telephotos or zoom lenses are the worst." Aren't telephotos classed as long lenses, depending on their length? Are you talking a telephoto of 100mm or 300-600? Your statement seems to contradict itself.
Dennis
Dennis
Mar 24, 2018 08:00:37 #
I am assuming that you will be shooting into the sun but don't necessarily want the sun in your photo. If that is the case, do as I did when shooting my son's Little League games and ran into this problem. At the time I was using a Sigma 80-300mm lens on a Nikon film camera. It had a nice hood, but to avoid flair I cupped my left hand and used it to "extend" the length of the hood, placing my hand on top of and at the end of the hood. That additional length made a nice tunnel for the lens to shoot through and the photos came back with no effects of the sun.
Mar 24, 2018 08:22:26 #
rdrechsler
Loc: Channel Islands Harbor, CA
Good tip. I might accomplish the same thing with a piece of black construction paper. I might try that.
Mar 24, 2018 08:32:07 #
rdrechsler wrote:
I need some pointers. I’m going to be shooting some boats on Sunday morning and the sun will be almost directly behind them. I don’t want the boats to be in silhouette because the objective is to capture the people on board. Can I get some help with settings so I don’t encounter a problem?
Exposure compensation.
Mar 24, 2018 08:54:24 #
aflundi
Loc: Albuquerque, NM
RWR wrote:
“Long focal length” would have been more accurate - my bad. The distance from the rear element to the focal plane (back focal distance) will be the same as the actual focal length when focused at infinity. With a telephoto lens, additional elements shorten the distance.
I think you are confusing telephoto with telecentric.
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