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Aug 29, 2016 10:06:29   #
markngolf Loc: Bridgewater, NJ
 
Most of us knew what you meant. I feel there are too many UHHers who cannot read between the lines and let tiny slip-ups slide by.
In my opinion, at times, the need for perfection "sucks".
Mark
jerryc41 wrote:
Whoops! I should have said smaller aperture.

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Aug 29, 2016 10:18:49   #
Leitz Loc: Solms
 
markngolf wrote:
Most of us knew what you meant. I feel there are too many UHHers who cannot read between the lines and let tiny slip-ups slide by.
In my opinion, at times, the need for perfection "sucks".
Mark

Many of the UHHers who "cannot read between the lines" are newcomers trying to learn, and are apt to think that those of us who do know mean what we say. In my opinion, to ignore inadvertent misstatements does newcomers a disservice.

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Aug 29, 2016 10:32:48   #
markngolf Loc: Bridgewater, NJ
 
You make a valid point.
Mark
Leitz wrote:
Many of the UHHers who "cannot read between the lines" are newcomers trying to learn, and are apt to think that those of us who do know mean what we say. In my opinion, to ignore inadvertent misstatements does newcomers a disservice.

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Aug 29, 2016 10:41:14   #
Leitz Loc: Solms
 
markngolf wrote:
You make a valid point.
Mark

Now if only I could remember that!

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Aug 29, 2016 11:59:45   #
jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY
 
Leitz wrote:
We should all accept correction so gracefully!


I guess I responded too quickly. I should have cursed him out and insulted his ancestors. Then I could have offered proof that I was right.

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Aug 29, 2016 12:36:53   #
boberic Loc: Quiet Corner, Connecticut. Ex long Islander
 
NotAnselAdams wrote:
I am an amateur picture taker. You'll notice I don't call myself a photographer. I recently went to an RC aircraft "fly in". I would like to know recommended settings for shooting aircraft in movement. My difficulty was in getting a moving aircraft, in this case a P-47 Thunderbolt, in focus as it flew by. I used a Canon D70 with an 18 to 135 lens in auto mode. I've reviewed "You Tube" but some of the explanations are long-winded and confusing. I'd appreciate any recommendations. Thanks
Mac
I am an amateur picture taker. You'll notice I do... (show quote)


You first must get the camera auto. Set on aperture or shutter priorty. For fast moving objects SP is probably better because you need a fast shutter speed (1/500 or faster). Make sure the ISO is set to allow at least F-8. Set to burst (7fps) and pan with the plane. It takes a lot of practice. BTW the real p-47's were made about 10 mile from my house on Long Island, at Republic Aviation. Now Republic airport.. First sentence should have been- you must get the camera OFF auto. Sorry if there was any confusion.

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Aug 29, 2016 13:40:13   #
Leitz Loc: Solms
 
jerryc41 wrote:
I guess I responded too quickly. I should have cursed him out and insulted his ancestors. Then I could have offered proof that I was right.


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Aug 29, 2016 14:57:23   #
R.G. Loc: Scotland
 
Pablo8 wrote:
***********************************************************************
I always advocate that " A larger aperture will give you a more shallow depth of field" It has worked for me since 1959, and my 40 plus years as a Pro' Photographer. Misinformation does not help anyone, especially a 'Novice'.


A very uncharacteristic slip-up from Jerry. It's an easily-made mistake. When referring to f-stops I prefer to use the terms "higher" and "lower". It's less ambiguous.

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Aug 30, 2016 02:17:32   #
Pablo8 Loc: Nottingham UK.
 
marki3rd wrote:
I think Jerry meant a larger aperture number which is really the denominator of a fraction, so as you point out, the larger the number the smaller the the aperture and the greater the DOF. He could have explained himself better, but most of us knew what he meant and don't find it necessary to correct him.


***********************************************************************************
I did not 'shout-down' the statement made by Gerry. I just stated a true fact about apertures. The original poster classed himself as a 'Novice', and would probably accept the statement by Gerry, as fact. The original poster does not need confusion to settle in his mind, or he would be liable to make many mistakes in his learning curve. Just trying to help out a newcomer to the world of photography, and I'm sure that was what Gerry was trying to do also.

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Aug 30, 2016 06:38:57   #
Joecosentino Loc: Whitesboro, New York
 
Practice, practice practice, good panning technique requires it. Learn the skill, good panning photos have always been made even before these new auto focus tools. Just practice

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Aug 30, 2016 07:21:21   #
OnDSnap Loc: NE New Jersey
 
You may want to look into "Back Button Focus" if your camera is capable...

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Aug 30, 2016 07:34:59   #
PhotoArtsLA Loc: Boynton Beach
 
One of the problems with using high shutter speeds is it tends to freeze props on airplanes, even models. This, for some, make them think they are falling from the sky. The trick is to use a shutter speed slow enough to create the motion, then develop technique enough to still freeze the action through tracking the motion. In the end, the shots you get are more "real" than frozen motion. For frozen motion, you could shoot the model plane in excruciating detail as a product shot in a studio, on green screen, and then insert it in an outdoor setting. The key to this is to match the lighting.

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Aug 30, 2016 08:39:41   #
OnDSnap Loc: NE New Jersey
 
PhotoArtsLA wrote:
One of the problems with using high shutter speeds is it tends to freeze props on airplanes, even models. This, for some, make them think they are falling from the sky. The trick is to use a shutter speed slow enough to create the motion, then develop technique enough to still freeze the action through tracking the motion. In the end, the shots you get are more "real" than frozen motion. For frozen motion, you could shoot the model plane in excruciating detail as a product shot in a studio, on green screen, and then insert it in an outdoor setting. The key to this is to match the lighting.
One of the problems with using high shutter speeds... (show quote)



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Aug 30, 2016 10:06:11   #
anotherview Loc: California
 
Yes, agree: "The trick is to use a shutter speed slow enough to create the motion, then develop technique enough to still freeze the action through tracking the motion. In the end, the shots you get are more 'real' than frozen motion."

Recommended shutter speeds exist, but I do not have them in mind right now. The shooter can find this info on the Internet.

The SS would also depend on the rpm of the aircraft engines, which can vary depending on whether taxiing on the tarmac or flying overhead. Jets do not have propellers so this variable does not apply, only a fast enough SS to stop action in flight or on the ground.

Getting the SS right for the action means practice and more practice, for sure.
PhotoArtsLA wrote:
One of the problems with using high shutter speeds is it tends to freeze props on airplanes, even models. This, for some, make them think they are falling from the sky. The trick is to use a shutter speed slow enough to create the motion, then develop technique enough to still freeze the action through tracking the motion. In the end, the shots you get are more "real" than frozen motion. For frozen motion, you could shoot the model plane in excruciating detail as a product shot in a studio, on green screen, and then insert it in an outdoor setting. The key to this is to match the lighting.
One of the problems with using high shutter speeds... (show quote)

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Aug 30, 2016 10:16:29   #
RichieC Loc: Adirondacks
 
You don't have to use auto focus- as you have the runway as a gauge. Go manual- set focus to where they are running the aircraft back and forth- in my experience a known flight path, DOF will cover a pretty substantial swath, something you don't have usually with birds. This way you are unconcerned with focus. Then either a very high shutter or try panning a few..not worrying about focus.. You'll get the essence of movement-

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