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Aug 30, 2016 10:54:03   #
JCam Loc: MD Eastern Shore
 
NotAnselAdams wrote:
I am an amateur picture taker. You'll notice I don't call myself a photographer. I recently went to an RC aircraft "fly in". I would like to know recommended settings for shooting aircraft in movement. My difficulty was in getting a moving aircraft, in this case a P-47 Thunderbolt, in focus as it flew by. I used a Canon D70 with an 18 to 135 lens in auto mode. I've reviewed "You Tube" but some of the explanations are long-winded and confusing. I'd appreciate any recommendations. Thanks
Mac
I am an amateur picture taker. You'll notice I do... (show quote)


Dave, You have good equipment for the job. I shoot local airshows model and full size with a Canon 60D and the same lens; I's suggest you change to shutter priority, about 1/000 should be adequate to catch the prop with just a little movement blur, but depending upon the venue I may use up to 1/1500--sometimes higher. I use single spot (center) focus for almost all my photos, and in this situation with a fast moving plane I'd use the A1-Servo setting for the auto focus which will track the subject so long as it says within the diamond focus points. You panning of the camera is quite good, as best I could tell there wasn't much movement blur. When you use the fixed shutter speed, you are letting the camera determine the f-stop which eliminates one decision you have to make in a very limited time.

Was this shot of a model P-47 or 'the real thing'? If it was a model, I think the plane was too far away, and you were pushing the limit of the 135mm zoom; another shot maybe as it came in for a landing would have had it closer, and you would probably gotten more details; nicely done in any case! The first attachment is a full sized plane taken with the 60D at about the same distance as you picture. I forgot to click store original, sorry.

I flew R/C models for about 20 years but thirty years ago so most of my model pictures were with a Canon AE-1 35mm, no zoom lenses so I had to get them close. Now I generally try to get models as they take off or in a closer fly by. Second attachment is obviously a model but taken with a Nikon P-500 P &S that I never liked, wouldn't focus well, and is now history .

Keep up the good work; practice helps especially with model planes.




(Download)

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Aug 30, 2016 11:50:13   #
GWZ Loc: Bloomington, IN
 
Mac, I have a Nikon D5300 and started out shooting RC planes using AF-C (auto focus-continuous), single-point focus. i started using aperture priority at ISO 400, and then switched to shutter priority. I also shot RAW and JPEG together.

After reviewing the very few successful and mostly unsuccessful shots, and since these shots are for personal sharing among friends and not publication, I now use AF-C (auto focus-continuous) and 3D 39 point focus tracking options, which allows me to get a "lock" on the plane somewhere in the 39 focus points as opposed to trying to keep a single focus point on the plane. I use the "sports" or "action" auto setting so that I can stay focused on the composition and panning with the plane. Now, unless there is a compelling reason for RAW shots, I only shoot in JPEG.

If possible, have the sun coming from behind you between either shoulder. This will highlight the plane as it comes towards you and past you, and will allow for a better focus lock. If you have the option, position yourself so that there is a fair amount of space between where you would like the plane to be when the pictures are taken and background trees or grasses. If the plane and background are too close to each other, and given that you will likely be zoomed in on the plane, the background could be distracting.

Depending on the rules (or lack thereof) at the strip, and your trust in the skill of the pilot, you may be able to direct the pilot how to bring the plane into your sweet-spot for photo ops.

You can see a few of my pictures at "Radio Controlled Electric P-51 in flight" on this site.

Gary

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Aug 30, 2016 12:34:36   #
foathog Loc: Greensboro, NC
 
jerryc41 wrote:
I do the same thing. "Are you a photographer?" "Well, I take pictures."

I'm sure you'll get good suggestions for photographing planes. High ISO and fast shutter are a couple of ideas that come to mind. A larger aperture would allow for a greater depth of field.


Maybe you should say a larger aperture number. not a larger aperture. don't you think??

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Aug 30, 2016 13:39:57   #
jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ
 
NotAnselAdams wrote:
I am an amateur picture taker. You'll notice I don't call myself a photographer. I recently went to an RC aircraft "fly in". I would like to know recommended settings for shooting aircraft in movement. My difficulty was in getting a moving aircraft, in this case a P-47 Thunderbolt, in focus as it flew by. I used a Canon D70 with an 18 to 135 lens in auto mode. I've reviewed "You Tube" but some of the explanations are long-winded and confusing. I'd appreciate any recommendations. Thanks
Mac
I am an amateur picture taker. You'll notice I do... (show quote)


I've photographed many airplanes in action including jet aircraft. I've done a few model airplanes as well. I've seen some good advice and some not so good advice here on this subject. My first suggestion is to get a lens with more reach. 135mm isn't enough reach unless you are happy with the type of image you have posted. After looking at some of the pictures posted by someone else that responded to your question, a 300mm lens is sufficient. Although, I'd recommend Canon's new 100-400mm zoom so that you have the options other than just a prime (fixed) focal length. Next, you need to make sure your camera is set to AI Servo focusing and not One Shot. Next, you can set the number of focus points. Once you are proficient at handheld panning while shooting planes in motion you can reduce the number of focus points but you should probably start with something like 9 points. I often use Expanded points when shooting subjects that fly (5 points). But if you have a plane that is up in the air with no other subjects that interfere with the focusing system, you can use more focus points. There are also settings in your camera that will allow the camera to stay focused on the subject even if something else briefly enters the frame. You'll have to play with this setting and see what works best for you.

As far as exposure settings go, the pictures of the model plane above were set at a shutter speed of 1/2000th, f/5.6 and the ISO seemed to vary between 100-500. So I'd say that person probably used the Manual setting with a variable ISO setting. I initially thought that 1/2000th was too fast, but on model airplanes it seems to be fine. What I mean by that is that usually you want so see some propeller blur so that the airplane looks like it's in motion. If you are photographing real airplanes, you'd probably want a shutter speed of 1/200 or slower. I usually shoot at 1/160th to get prop blur. But model airplane propellers spin much faster than a real airplane so it's still slightly blurry at 1/2000th of a second. So, when shooting model planes in the sky, I'd shoot them with shutter priority at 1/2000th of a second on a sunny day. I'd adjust the ISO to the proper setting for exposure or you can use Auto ISO. If it's a really overcast day you will not get good pictures of flying planes no matter the settings. Overcast skys tend to be white and it makes for a really crappy background. I'd limit my shooting to planes that have something on the ground as a background in that case.

When you are shooting real airplanes use a much slower shutter speed; but you'll need to become well practiced at panning smoothly. It takes a lot of practice. I would also avoid taking pictures of airplanes that are flying away from you. Personally, I have not seen any keepers of planes that are flying away. Taking pictures of them banking toward you so that you can see the top of the wings, or a profile with a little of the farthest wing in view is the best. Good luck.

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Aug 30, 2016 15:33:51   #
burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC
 
NotAnselAdams wrote:
Thank you. Any hints on getting the aircraft in focus when it is at a distance and moving toward or away from you?
Mac


MANUAL focus and a side-to-side flight path. Or a really high end dSLR with great continuous auto-focus tracking! Set the camera to "spray and pray" mode (AKA motor winder mode or a high frame rate (6 to 12 frames per second)).

It is difficult for some cameras to track well when the subject is small in the frame. Having lots of AF sensors, using a longer lens, or moving closer can help.

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Aug 30, 2016 16:34:21   #
John_F Loc: Minneapolis, MN
 
jerryc41 wrote:
I do the same thing. "Are you a photographer?" "Well, I take pictures."

I'm sure you'll get good suggestions for photographing planes. High ISO and fast shutter are a couple of ideas that come to mind. A larger aperture would allow for a greater depth of field.


I suspect Jerry meant to say larger f-stop. The f-stop number is defined as focal length divided by the diameter of the lens opening, i.e., aperture.

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Aug 30, 2016 19:29:57   #
anotherview Loc: California
 
For all its central importance in doing photography, Aperture is best understood visually. See here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aperture
John_F wrote:
I suspect Jerry meant to say larger f-stop. The f-stop number is defined as focal length divided by the diameter of the lens opening, i.e., aperture.

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Aug 30, 2016 23:44:55   #
fredpnm Loc: Corrales, NM
 
I shoot RC planes in flight often - I use a Nikon D750 (have also used my D3200) with a 28-300 lens. I shoot mostly at 300mm in shutter priority (1000 or 1250 almost always is good enough) with the ISO as low as the lighting will allow. 100-200 ISO is the most common given they normally only fly in bright sunlight or partly cloudy skies. I usually shoot burst mode at only 4 fps, I find that is suitable. Depth of Field is rarely a serious consideration hence the shutter priority mode. Focus mode is continuous focus (single point - center) and the key...the key is setting the camera to delay refocusing if I happen to come off target as the plane flies by. Delaying refocusing means that if the camera determines I have come off the focus point first set...the camera will delay its attempts to refocus for whatever time period I have set - usually a half second or so depending on the time delay I set. Tracking takes practice, especially for the very fast jet planes - and some fast prop ones. If you can set your camera to delay refocusing - in my case to level 3 for the Nikon - do it. It makes all the difference in the world.

Check out my 500px site if you would like to see how some of mine turn out - good, but there is always room for improvement...

https://500px.com/fredpnm/galleries/planes-in-flight

and/or

https://500px.com/fredpnm/galleries/planes-in-flight-2015

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Sep 8, 2016 17:25:21   #
Dgusty3 Loc: Illinois
 
REmember also the "rule of thirds" when taking a picture. The composition will look so much better. I would have focused on the plane and had the plane more on the right side and not in the middle.

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Sep 13, 2016 13:12:16   #
JoeJoe
 
Not RC but the techniques are the same regardless of what your photographing even the real thing..... I shoot manual with Auto ISO set the Aperture to its lowest F2.8 or F5.6 depending on lens.... the shutter speed is different to capture the props spinning 1/30th....... to freeze everything 1/500th or above depending on what exposure your seeing the more blown out the faster you can raise your shutter speed the sharper the image..... When using a slow shutter speed panning is the key to getting sharp images, this takes plenty of practise and you wont get it every time but when you do you'll be delighted with the results.


(Download)


(Download)





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Sep 20, 2016 16:47:09   #
traveler5450 Loc: Maryland, USA
 
Here are some suggestions:

#1 Set your camera to a higher ISO. How high depends on how sunny the day is.

#2 Turn your settings to speed. Try about 1/500. If you set it too high the plane looks like it is suspended in space. You want some blur especially in the prop.

#3 If possible position yourself so that the plane is coming towards you at say a 30 or 45 degree angle. So you are not directly in its flight path but more off to the side.

#4 Nothing here is written in stone. Experiment and make notes of what you did.

Good luck and have fun.

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Sep 30, 2016 18:35:38   #
Abo
 
jerryc41 wrote:
Whoops! I should have said smaller aperture.


You reckon that's bad, I was in a high speed pursuit of a bank robber,
I was in the passenger seat of the pursuing car when the driver exclaimed
Ive lost sight of the perp!

I had not! and shouted; "he turned left into Sparrow st"... but I
actually meant right, so the driver turned the wrong way
and we lost the thief.


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Sep 30, 2016 19:54:46   #
bdk Loc: Sanibel Fl.
 
set the camera to (S mode) and select 800 to 1000 and see what you get.....

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Oct 1, 2016 11:49:14   #
Abo
 
JoeJoe wrote:
Not RC but the techniques are the same regardless of what your photographing even the real thing..... I shoot manual with Auto ISO set the Aperture to its lowest F2.8 or F5.6 depending on lens.... the shutter speed is different to capture the props spinning 1/30th....... to freeze everything 1/500th or above depending on what exposure your seeing the more blown out the faster you can raise your shutter speed the sharper the image..... When using a slow shutter speed panning is the key to getting sharp images, this takes plenty of practise and you wont get it every time but when you do you'll be delighted with the results.
Not RC but the techniques are the same regardless ... (show quote)


Luv a good pan job; vis a vis the time trialist.

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Oct 9, 2016 11:26:18   #
canon Lee
 
NotAnselAdams wrote:
I am an amateur picture taker. You'll notice I don't call myself a photographer. I recently went to an RC aircraft "fly in". I would like to know recommended settings for shooting aircraft in movement. My difficulty was in getting a moving aircraft, in this case a P-47 Thunderbolt, in focus as it flew by. I used a Canon D70 with an 18 to 135 lens in auto mode. I've reviewed "You Tube" but some of the explanations are long-winded and confusing. I'd appreciate any recommendations. Thanks
Mac
I am an amateur picture taker. You'll notice I do... (show quote)


HI fellow photographer. Some small things to mention.. Practice "panning". Try to fill the subject in the frame, or get a longer lens.( 200mm~300mm fixed aperture)..Shoot in JPEG not RAW, (as this will speed up the buffering). Use rapid fire shutter.. Use the setting "I-servo" to lock in tracking.. I practice "panning" using passing cars, joggers etc... practice, practice, practice.....

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