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Vibration via tripod
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Nov 6, 2014 11:36:11   #
Mr PC Loc: Austin, TX
 
I get cityscapes from a bridge in Austin and I have to time the traffic lights if I'm even going to stand a chance of a good bracketed shot on a monopod. Sometimes, I've done better handheld to squelch the traffic vibrations. I'll set manual focus to avoid the camera hunting between shots and will try to rapid fire 3 continuous shots. This gives me a higher percentage of keepers. Tripods are great on solid surfaces and should be weighted down if there is a breeze. Hope this helps some...

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Nov 6, 2014 12:29:12   #
MT Shooter Loc: Montana
 
Morning Star wrote:
I'm playing with some night-time photography and because at this point what I take photos of is not important, I set up the camera on my sundeck.
So often we see suggestions about locking the mirror, using a 2 second delay or using a remote shutter release to prevent vibration resulting in blurred photos.

I followed all these "rules" and still ended up with a blurred photo. The lens was stopped to f/16, exposure set to 60 seconds.
So, two areas of influence I had not counted on: We live less than 2 blocks from a busy highway, and while the shutter was open, I did hear one of those heavy transport trucks go by.
And our sundeck has a wooden floor, and I walked away from the camera while the shutter was open.
Both causing vibrations that travelled through the tripod to the camera, resulting in blurred photos.
Although I was still mighty proud of them, as the street- and house lights in the photos did have the star points I was after: 14 star points, 7 blades in the lens.
I'll be out there again to try different settings, in this case the heck with the vibrations ;-)
Next time I'm at our son's, where there is no heavy traffic and they have 10 acres of solid ground, I'll try as well!
I'm playing with some night-time photography and b... (show quote)


Here's a test I suggest. Set a bowl full of water on the middle of your deck and watch the ripples in the water as you walk around. That vibration will easily transfer right up your tripod to the camera.

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Nov 6, 2014 13:21:53   #
Morning Star Loc: West coast, North of the 49th N.
 
MT Shooter wrote:
Here's a test I suggest. Set a bowl full of water on the middle of your deck and watch the ripples in the water as you walk around. That vibration will easily transfer right up your tripod to the camera.


There already was on the deck,about 3/4" deep, the birds are using it for a birdbath ;-) My husband went out a few minutes ago, and when he let the front door slam shut, the water in that bowl rippled! The front door and the deck are on opposite ends of the house.

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Nov 6, 2014 13:23:20   #
MT Shooter Loc: Montana
 
Morning Star wrote:
There already was on the deck,about 3/4" deep, the birds are using it for a birdbath ;-) My husband went out a few minutes ago, and when he let the front door slam shut, the water in that bowl rippled! The front door and the deck are on opposite ends of the house.


In that case I will consider the original question answered! ;-)

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Nov 6, 2014 13:24:42   #
SonnyE Loc: Communist California, USA
 
Morning Star wrote:
There already was on the deck,about 3/4" deep, the birds are using it for a birdbath ;-) My husband went out a few minutes ago, and when he let the front door slam shut, the water in that bowl rippled! The front door and the deck are on opposite ends of the house.


But... connected.
Now you are beginning to see vibration transmission... ;)

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Nov 6, 2014 13:36:24   #
Morning Star Loc: West coast, North of the 49th N.
 
In the meantime, I'll keep on trying to perfect the starbursts in these night-time photos, I'll try and remember what settings I used (thankful for exif data!), and once I get a really good one, I promise I'll post it.

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Nov 6, 2014 13:44:52   #
warrior Loc: Paso Robles CA
 
Morning Star wrote:
I'm playing with some night-time photography and because at this point what I take photos of is not important, I set up the camera on my sundeck.
So often we see suggestions about locking the mirror, using a 2 second delay or using a remote shutter release to prevent vibration resulting in blurred photos.

I followed all these "rules" and still ended up with a blurred photo. The lens was stopped to f/16, exposure set to 60 seconds.
So, two areas of influence I had not counted on: We live less than 2 blocks from a busy highway, and while the shutter was open, I did hear one of those heavy transport trucks go by.
And our sundeck has a wooden floor, and I walked away from the camera while the shutter was open.
Both causing vibrations that travelled through the tripod to the camera, resulting in blurred photos.
Although I was still mighty proud of them, as the street- and house lights in the photos did have the star points I was after: 14 star points, 7 blades in the lens.
I'll be out there again to try different settings, in this case the heck with the vibrations ;-)
Next time I'm at our son's, where there is no heavy traffic and they have 10 acres of solid ground, I'll try as well!
I'm playing with some night-time photography and b... (show quote)


have you tried a wider aperture exp: 5.6 and faster shutter speed?

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Nov 6, 2014 13:48:36   #
Morning Star Loc: West coast, North of the 49th N.
 
warrior wrote:
have you tried a wider aperture exp: 5.6 and faster shutter speed?


That's coming tomorrow night (won't be home tonight).
I started with the smaller aperture because of what I'd read a long time ago. Tomorrow night, I'll try every f/stop my camera will give me, then compare.

I kind of wish I could find the article back, but from my memory, those starbursts come with the smaller apertures.

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Nov 6, 2014 20:11:11   #
NealB Loc: Lowell Indiana
 
Morning Star wrote:
I'm playing with some night-time photography and because at this point what I take photos of is not important, I set up the camera on my sundeck.
So often we see suggestions about locking the mirror, using a 2 second delay or using a remote shutter release to prevent vibration resulting in blurred photos.

I followed all these "rules" and still ended up with a blurred photo. The lens was stopped to f/16, exposure set to 60 seconds.
So, two areas of influence I had not counted on: We live less than 2 blocks from a busy highway, and while the shutter was open, I did hear one of those heavy transport trucks go by.
And our sundeck has a wooden floor, and I walked away from the camera while the shutter was open.
Both causing vibrations that travelled through the tripod to the camera, resulting in blurred photos.
Although I was still mighty proud of them, as the street- and house lights in the photos did have the star points I was after: 14 star points, 7 blades in the lens.
I'll be out there again to try different settings, in this case the heck with the vibrations ;-)
Next time I'm at our son's, where there is no heavy traffic and they have 10 acres of solid ground, I'll try as well!
I'm playing with some night-time photography and b... (show quote)


Buy some silicone or nitrile sheet at least 3/4" thick that is a maximum durometer of 40 Shore A. Cut in to 4"X4" squares and place under each leg. The materials should cost between $5.00 to $10.00.

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Nov 7, 2014 05:45:14   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
Morning Star wrote:
I'm playing with some night-time photography and because at this point what I take photos of is not important, I set up the camera on my sundeck.
So often we see suggestions about locking the mirror, using a 2 second delay or using a remote shutter release to prevent vibration resulting in blurred photos.

I followed all these "rules" and still ended up with a blurred photo. The lens was stopped to f/16, exposure set to 60 seconds.
So, two areas of influence I had not counted on: We live less than 2 blocks from a busy highway, and while the shutter was open, I did hear one of those heavy transport trucks go by.
And our sundeck has a wooden floor, and I walked away from the camera while the shutter was open.
Both causing vibrations that travelled through the tripod to the camera, resulting in blurred photos.
Although I was still mighty proud of them, as the street- and house lights in the photos did have the star points I was after: 14 star points, 7 blades in the lens.
I'll be out there again to try different settings, in this case the heck with the vibrations ;-)
Next time I'm at our son's, where there is no heavy traffic and they have 10 acres of solid ground, I'll try as well!
I'm playing with some night-time photography and b... (show quote)


Lots of advice here, but may ask, what lens, camera and tripod are you using?

The only rule that makes a difference, and it could be considered a Golden Rule - if the tripod is inadequate, there is not a thing you can do to eliminate vibrations. Now this might be different, but lets see what your response is to the camera/lens/tripod setting.

Also, please post an example of an image that has this problem.

On long exposures that have lights - if you have vibration, you will see it in the lights, but you won't see it anywhere else, even if you have a 60 sec exposure. You want to have everything rock solid and not moving.

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Nov 7, 2014 05:58:39   #
dynoking Loc: New York
 
Good morning Sonny,

I see you use a Tamron 150-600 MM. I need (want) a lens for sky shots. I can not afford a Nikon lens (I use a D7100) and I am leery of after market equipment. Would you recommend your lens?

Richie

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Nov 7, 2014 06:12:14   #
zundapp5 Loc: Portugal
 
Morning Star wrote:
I'm playing with some night-time photography and because at this point what I take photos of is not important, I set up the camera on my sundeck.
So often we see suggestions about locking the mirror, using a 2 second delay or using a remote shutter release to prevent vibration resulting in blurred photos.

I followed all these "rules" and still ended up with a blurred photo. The lens was stopped to f/16, exposure set to 60 seconds.
So, two areas of influence I had not counted on: We live less than 2 blocks from a busy highway, and while the shutter was open, I did hear one of those heavy transport trucks go by.
And our sundeck has a wooden floor, and I walked away from the camera while the shutter was open.
Both causing vibrations that travelled through the tripod to the camera, resulting in blurred photos.
Although I was still mighty proud of them, as the street- and house lights in the photos did have the star points I was after: 14 star points, 7 blades in the lens.
I'll be out there again to try different settings, in this case the heck with the vibrations ;-)
Next time I'm at our son's, where there is no heavy traffic and they have 10 acres of solid ground, I'll try as well!
I'm playing with some night-time photography and b... (show quote)


Try to adapt it underneath your tripod legs

http://www.vibrationmounts.com/Products10.htm

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Nov 7, 2014 06:25:37   #
Apaflo Loc: Anchorage, Alaska
 
Morning Star wrote:
That's coming tomorrow night (won't be home tonight).
I started with the smaller aperture because of what I'd read a long time ago. Tomorrow night, I'll try every f/stop my camera will give me, then compare.

I kind of wish I could find the article back, but from my memory, those starbursts come with the smaller apertures.

That is correct, and using a lens with non-rounded diaphragm blades, stopped down to at least f/22 will help.

It can help your situation in another way that might be unexpected too! By requiring that you use very long shutter times, it reduces the effects of several of the sources of vibration that have been discussed here. Let's assume a 60 second shutter time...

The vibration when you walked off to the kitchen for coffee lasted what, 2 to 4 seconds. Out of 60, it wasn't even visible! Same with the rumble from one individual big truck. These things are only significant if they are repeated often enough to be lasting for at least perhaps 1/6 (certainly longer than 1/10) of the time the shutter is open! Things like wind, continuous traffic on the road, nearby heavy machinery or maybe a party going on in your living room will affect the picture. But vibration that last only 6 seconds or less won't.

Except that the effects are accumulative. So three different trucks while the shutter is open and a trip to and back from the kitchen all adding up to vibration for 30 out of the 60 seconds will make for a less than sharp picture.

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Nov 7, 2014 06:51:37   #
jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY
 
Dlevon wrote:
You can't avoid vibration on a deck, even if it is made of concrete plank. Actually IS might work on the deck.

It's like taking a long exposure on a diving board, only not as extreme. No matter how sturdy the tripod is, it must be on a sturdy surface.

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Nov 7, 2014 07:12:05   #
dcampbell52 Loc: Clearwater Fl
 
Morning Star wrote:
I'm playing with some night-time photography and because at this point what I take photos of is not important, I set up the camera on my sundeck.
So often we see suggestions about locking the mirror, using a 2 second delay or using a remote shutter release to prevent vibration resulting in blurred photos.

I followed all these "rules" and still ended up with a blurred photo. The lens was stopped to f/16, exposure set to 60 seconds.
So, two areas of influence I had not counted on: We live less than 2 blocks from a busy highway, and while the shutter was open, I did hear one of those heavy transport trucks go by.
And our sundeck has a wooden floor, and I walked away from the camera while the shutter was open.
Both causing vibrations that travelled through the tripod to the camera, resulting in blurred photos.
Although I was still mighty proud of them, as the street- and house lights in the photos did have the star points I was after: 14 star points, 7 blades in the lens.
I'll be out there again to try different settings, in this case the heck with the vibrations ;-)
Next time I'm at our son's, where there is no heavy traffic and they have 10 acres of solid ground, I'll try as well!
I'm playing with some night-time photography and b... (show quote)


I would also try around your house on solid ground if you can. This would help to eliminate the deck as cause for vibration. As you probably know, the best, most vibration free tripod in the world will not work if the support under it is vibrating. I also use a Vello Free wave remote camera release which is fairly inexpensive (about $60 at B&H or Adorama). I love mine and have a friend on here who used his for video and also loves it. The Freewave is available for both Nikon and Canon and you can purchase the appropriate connector cables ($9 each) to use the same release for multiple models and brands of camera. It works on the 2.4 ghz band and has a range of 320 feet and supports focus etc.

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