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Feb 7, 2012 11:57:23   #
SuKai Loc: California
 
pfredd wrote:
Oh yes—— when posting in the Photo Analysis section if you will include meta data, and what PP software program you have available. Though the later is not required it helps us try to help you if we have a feel for your expertise. When we must guess that we too often talk down to an experienced hand, or talk over the head of a relative newbie. Thank you,
P



Sorry about that I did add this later down in the thread
Biker_Chic wrote:
Good Morning all,

I was as close as possible, there is a small fence separating people from the caged area about 4 foot away, I was leaning into it as far as possible. I had the lens on manual focus because the auto couldn't figure out what to focus on, I tried that first but the fence was confusing it. I had it zoomed in as far as possible and focused on the cat. I was afraid of shake because I didn't set it up on a tripod and this lens doesn't have IS.

The PP programs I have are Picasa 3, PMB, Photomatix, and a free trial of Photoshop Elements 10 (which I am testing to see if I like over the real Photoshop program) I haven't had much time to play with the pictures myself yet, probably tonight, I was just wondering if there was something someone might know works so I could try it.

I threw one into Photomatix yesterday and it did seem to get a better result than what I have straight off the camera.
Good Morning all, br br I was as close as possibl... (show quote)


But I didn't add any meta data. I am a newbie / beginner hobbyist.

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Feb 7, 2012 12:04:55   #
MtnMan Loc: ID
 
I got a nice little Photoshop tutorial on lightening eyes in today's Email. You may want to try it on the eye of the Tiger (couldn't resist that!)...for ones with their eyes open like your latest.

http://www.photoshopessentials.com/photo-editing/lighten-eyes/

It works almost the same in Photoshop Elements and is almost the same method Kelby and Klowkoski describe in Chapter 7 of their book.

The only dif I noted is that after you have the layer mask up you can press "Ctrl-I" to get the layer mask to black. The press X to switch the foreground color to white and then click on B to get the brush tool. The rest is the same.

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Feb 8, 2012 11:29:59   #
SuKai Loc: California
 
MtnMan wrote:
I got a nice little Photoshop tutorial on lightening eyes in today's Email. You may want to try it on the eye of the Tiger (couldn't resist that!)...for ones with their eyes open like your latest.

http://www.photoshopessentials.com/photo-editing/lighten-eyes/

It works almost the same in Photoshop Elements and is almost the same method Kelby and Klowkoski describe in Chapter 7 of their book.

The only dif I noted is that after you have the layer mask up you can press "Ctrl-I" to get the layer mask to black. The press X to switch the foreground color to white and then click on B to get the brush tool. The rest is the same.
I got a nice little Photoshop tutorial on lighteni... (show quote)



Thanks I will try the link soon.... as I started to work on "the eye of the tiger" :lol: my husband came home and presented me with flowers. A total surprise since he doesn't do that to often, so I decided not to be on the computer last night.
:thumbup:

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Feb 9, 2012 00:05:59   #
SuKai Loc: California
 
This is the result of my last attempt I took the suggestion to lighten the eyes. I added another layer and used the dodge tool to lighten the eye and then the burn tool on the pupil to re-darken it. I also lightened the color to make it less orange to try and bring it back to his natural color. I think I was able to achieve what I was trying to do. Thanks to all for the suggestions. Oh yeah the cool thing about this post is I learned something. I never knew what the Dodge and Burn tool was for and now I do. :thumbup:

Original
Original...

rough draft (too orange and eyes dark)
rough draft (too orange and eyes dark)...

Last try
Last try...

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Feb 9, 2012 01:36:18   #
MtnMan Loc: ID
 
Great improvement!

I am still learning how to best use those tools also. I'm sure you noted that they continue to add the effect each time you brush over. So I think it is better to set the opacity relatively low (e.g. 10%) and take multiple passes where indicated.

With a little practice I think you'll be able to elminate the residual haze and make the eyes glow. "Tiger tiger in the night..." kind of thing!

Kelby and Klowkoski take another approach to brigtening human eyes in Chapter 7 of their Elements 10 book. It ought to work on tigers also. It uses layers and a layer mask. You may want to check that out.

Biker_Chic wrote:
This is the result of my last attempt I took the suggestion to lighten the eyes. I added another layer and used the dodge tool to lighten the eye and then the burn tool on the pupil to re-darken it. I also lightened the color to make it less orange to try and bring it back to his natural color. I think I was able to achieve what I was trying to do. Thanks to all for the suggestions. Oh yeah the cool thing about this post is I learned something. I never knew what the Dodge and Burn tool was for and now I do. :thumbup:
This is the result of my last attempt I took the s... (show quote)

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Feb 9, 2012 11:08:26   #
gdwsr Loc: Northern California
 
I saw a great technique that someone did with a tiger at a zoo. He did just the opposite of one of the suggestions. Instead of trying to "hide" the fence wire he focused it sharp. That is he used a small aperture (which gives the "artistic" effect Wolf suggests). But then in PP he cloned out the fence wire. Worked really great. I think in the future I will take one wide and one small so I have options to play with.

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Feb 15, 2012 12:21:18   #
Bob66 Loc: Dallas Tx.
 
I used blending modes and layer masks to adjust contrast and shadows. Then used high pass to sharpen just a small amount. Hope this helps



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Feb 16, 2012 10:53:25   #
molsonice Loc: Grand Blanc, MI
 
I have used the clone option in Paintshop ProX4 and it works wonderfully. You need to put the clone where you want to replace the wire mesh and make your clone brush the correct size and commit to some time doing it but it can be done.
Good Luck :P

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Feb 16, 2012 18:41:20   #
frank bruce Loc: Albuquerque,N.M
 
if u can ,get right up to the glass or cage with a shorter lense. in this case , u've got what u've got.
Biker_Chic wrote:
Hi I have a question about how to remove something from some photos I took yesterday. I was at the Cat House (Feline Rescue) and I had to shoot through the wire mesh to get a sharp picture of the cats. I was using my 300mm lens to get close here are some examples of what I'm talking about. I would like to remove the fuzzy cage I had to shoot through if possible. I'm open to any help or alterations you could come up with. Thanks. Oh and if you alter it please post how you did it so I might be able to try it too.
Hi I have a question about how to remove something... (show quote)

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Feb 29, 2012 18:30:07   #
Steven Loc: So. Milwaukee, WI.
 
If you can't get right onto the fencing you'll have the same results. I've shot alot of pictures like you show in your examples, but I've learned to stretch as far as I can and then (with alot of luck)I try to put the most important aspect of the image into one of the spaces and shoot through that. If you get lucky you'll have an image you can possibly crop around or get creative and use your eraser in your photo program to help out. Try it; what have you to lose?

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