Technical question
Feb 5, 2012 16:08:18 #
Hi I have a question about how to remove something from some photos I took yesterday. I was at the Cat House (Feline Rescue) and I had to shoot through the wire mesh to get a sharp picture of the cats. I was using my 300mm lens to get close here are some examples of what I'm talking about. I would like to remove the fuzzy cage I had to shoot through if possible. I'm open to any help or alterations you could come up with. Thanks. Oh and if you alter it please post how you did it so I might be able to try it too.
Feb 5, 2012 17:23:37 #
I have encountered similar problems with reflections shooting through windows. The result is a haze over the detail beyond. I have had some luck by increasing contrast in selections around the haze. As the haze is usually non uniform, it gets tricky to get an even effect. Also such haze can have a color cast that needs correcting.
What software do you have available to do the PP here? I use Photo Shop CS4. and what I might do specifically with it might need conversion in description to other programs.
I worked with your second shot and was able to get some improvement. But, I have not had any luck adding as an attachment. Will try some more.
This is not the best result as there are color issues, but it does demonstrate the possibilities.
What software do you have available to do the PP here? I use Photo Shop CS4. and what I might do specifically with it might need conversion in description to other programs.
I worked with your second shot and was able to get some improvement. But, I have not had any luck adding as an attachment. Will try some more.
This is not the best result as there are color issues, but it does demonstrate the possibilities.
Finally !
Feb 5, 2012 22:29:30 #
Biker_Chic wrote:
Hi I have a question about how to remove something... (show quote)
If you adjust the contrast ... it will help .. but I'm afraid there is no easy solution for that.... if possible put the lens right up against the cage .. that helps to blur it even more.
Feb 5, 2012 22:53:21 #
photogrl57 wrote:
quote=Biker_Chic Hi I have a question about how t... (show quote)
Or use manual focus when shooting through cages.
Feb 6, 2012 06:27:39 #
The ideal situation from keeping a fence from being seen or effecting the apparence of a photo is to be as close to the fence as possible, have your aperture wide open, and have the subject far back from the fence. Click on this link http://www.dubinphotography.net/Nature/Photo-Outings/Palm-Beach-Zoo-Oct-25-2011/19754003_N9KgzQ#!i=1551559399&k=vdjL76f to view some of my Tiger photos. To help out improving your photos, just increase the contrast in the local areas where they are lighter. Arnold
Biker_Chic wrote:
Hi I have a question about how to remove something... (show quote)
Feb 6, 2012 08:44:09 #
Good Morning all,
I was as close as possible, there is a small fence separating people from the caged area about 4 foot away, I was leaning into it as far as possible. I had the lens on manual focus because the auto couldn't figure out what to focus on, I tried that first but the fence was confusing it. I had it zoomed in as far as possible and focused on the cat. I was afraid of shake because I didn't set it up on a tripod and this lens doesn't have IS.
The PP programs I have are Picasa 3, PMB, Photomatix, and a free trial of Photoshop Elements 10 (which I am testing to see if I like over the real Photoshop program) I haven't had much time to play with the pictures myself yet, probably tonight, I was just wondering if there was something someone might know works so I could try it.
I threw one into Photomatix yesterday and it did seem to get a better result than what I have straight off the camera.
I was as close as possible, there is a small fence separating people from the caged area about 4 foot away, I was leaning into it as far as possible. I had the lens on manual focus because the auto couldn't figure out what to focus on, I tried that first but the fence was confusing it. I had it zoomed in as far as possible and focused on the cat. I was afraid of shake because I didn't set it up on a tripod and this lens doesn't have IS.
The PP programs I have are Picasa 3, PMB, Photomatix, and a free trial of Photoshop Elements 10 (which I am testing to see if I like over the real Photoshop program) I haven't had much time to play with the pictures myself yet, probably tonight, I was just wondering if there was something someone might know works so I could try it.
I threw one into Photomatix yesterday and it did seem to get a better result than what I have straight off the camera.
Feb 6, 2012 08:46:57 #
Feb 6, 2012 08:48:05 #
Bobber wrote:
I have encountered similar problems with reflectio... (show quote)
Thanks it does look better.
Feb 6, 2012 10:06:48 #
Manual focus - IT IS WELL FOCUSED so why suggest that?
Close to the fence, impossible for safety reason.
Open as wide as possible - good if you do not want to see much in focus.
PP, nearly impossible due to the wide diffusion created by the chain links. If one is really good, creating a layer that isolate the 'milky' over tone should be achievable.
What is left?
Use the chain-link as an 'artsy' element of the picture vs a distraction. How? by using your long lens on a tripod (if possible in the zoo) and frame using the link as borders.
- If using a zoom, prepare the shot by making sure the subject is not hidden by a link but withing 2 or 4. Once you are sure, zoom in.
- If fixed lenses, prepare shot using a normal lens, same framing method as above, then change to your long lens. In both cases make sure you do not change ANYTHING on your tripod.
If what you are shooting is moving... forget it (as artsy element) and start learning PP with layers as well as use RAW if you do not do that already (more information and easier to manipulate)
Close to the fence, impossible for safety reason.
Open as wide as possible - good if you do not want to see much in focus.
PP, nearly impossible due to the wide diffusion created by the chain links. If one is really good, creating a layer that isolate the 'milky' over tone should be achievable.
What is left?
Use the chain-link as an 'artsy' element of the picture vs a distraction. How? by using your long lens on a tripod (if possible in the zoo) and frame using the link as borders.
- If using a zoom, prepare the shot by making sure the subject is not hidden by a link but withing 2 or 4. Once you are sure, zoom in.
- If fixed lenses, prepare shot using a normal lens, same framing method as above, then change to your long lens. In both cases make sure you do not change ANYTHING on your tripod.
If what you are shooting is moving... forget it (as artsy element) and start learning PP with layers as well as use RAW if you do not do that already (more information and easier to manipulate)
Feb 6, 2012 10:50:06 #
docrob
Loc: Durango, Colorado
Biker_Chic wrote:
Hi I have a question about how to remove something... (show quote)
Bobber got it right. It's not the fence folks its the light. The cats are back lit and the light filtering in is dusty - the problem is haze not wire mesh......you can tweak this as Bobber and others have suggested but in my ho to get the quality of images you want you might have to go back at a different time of day.....and pray?
Feb 6, 2012 10:51:48 #
docrob
Loc: Durango, Colorado
English_Wolf wrote:
Manual focus - IT IS WELL FOCUSED so why suggest t... (show quote)
and the English wolf guy - he made an excellent suggestion too - use the fence as part of the scene - in fact animals shot in zoos and other private game parks MUST be so identified.....
Feb 6, 2012 12:39:22 #
I tried the first one with Elements 10.
I first selected the guy. I tried several tools but the one that seemed to work best was the magnetic lasso. I then tried auto sharpening and color fix.
Not satisfied with that I tried the burn brush set to 23% opacity. I did several passes in some cases. I'm liking how it is helping. Give it a try!
I first selected the guy. I tried several tools but the one that seemed to work best was the magnetic lasso. I then tried auto sharpening and color fix.
Not satisfied with that I tried the burn brush set to 23% opacity. I did several passes in some cases. I'm liking how it is helping. Give it a try!
Feb 6, 2012 12:56:52 #
Having learned how cool the burn brush is I went straight to it for this one. I did some set at 23% and some set at 10%. Note that every pass does it again.
I then did auto sharpen and contrast.
Much quicker than fussing with selection.
A bit more carful work can get rid of all the haze. Enjoy playing with it!
I then did auto sharpen and contrast.
Much quicker than fussing with selection.
A bit more carful work can get rid of all the haze. Enjoy playing with it!
Feb 6, 2012 13:16:50 #
The third one is more difficult. Here's a first quick cut again using the burn brush followed by auto sharpen and contrast and a increasing color saturation...maybe too much.
I think it helps to set the opacity lower on the burn brush and use multiple passes to get what you want. You can undo if you don't like what a pass did.
I didn't go over the ground; you can try that too.
I think it helps to set the opacity lower on the burn brush and use multiple passes to get what you want. You can undo if you don't like what a pass did.
I didn't go over the ground; you can try that too.
Feb 6, 2012 13:26:34 #
Here's with a little more quick stroking with the burn brush on the ground and a crop (I messed up the ground to the right). I suspect with more careful work you can get a passable image with this one but not as good as the other two.
Please share back with us what you are able to do!
Please share back with us what you are able to do!
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