I use Premiere Pro and Rush and really like both programs but I have the Creative Cloud subscription. ($56.99 per month). There is, unfortunately a higher learning curve for any Adobe program and Premiere Pro is not something you can use to quickly make a slide show. I use Premiere Pro to create nice videos of events for my church but I also use After Effects to add beginning and ending graphics.

Each year at VBS, I take pictures during the first 2 hours each night (anywhere from 150 - 200 photos plus some video) , then edit and put together a slide show for the kids to view during their final session/song. I only have maybe 45 minutes to get it accomplished and in the presentation computer before that last session. Try to get all the 150 kids in at least one photo and keep the slide show to the length of one of the songs... usually under 2 min. To accomplish this, I use Movie Maker (free) as it is a lot less complicated and I can get it done quickly.

Thanks. From watching the video I see how the angle is important. I might shoot from 30 to 70 different kids/adults when I am at a rabbit show - especially if it is a 2 day event. My last shoot on Saturday was 33 kids and 6 wore glasses - the youngest was maybe 3 to 3.5 feet tall (no reflections and she had rather large glasses). I had issues with all the taller kids.... fortunately it is easy to raise and lower the lights depending on the height of the kids. I use the Bowens Speedlight mounts so easy to change the angle of the flash too.

I have the flash shooting into the soft box and reflected back.

Thanks to everyone for their comments. The picture I added to my original post was pre - processing and I thought it would give you the best example of the issues. Here is the photo I sent to the youth after post- not the exact same photo as this one has the rabbit closer to the natural position for this particular breed of rabbit.

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Yes, the D7100 has active-D lighting - as does my D5100 but I have never used it.

Thanks for your advice. I do have full size stands but because of the height differences with the kids I photograph I have been reluctant to raise them too high. I will do some testing before my next shoot.

Will also try the smaller aperture. As for the carpet, I would need to get several as there are close to 50 different main colors and all could be paired with white on some breeds. Fortunately the majority of the rabbits are generally all one color so the lighter carpet works. I'll get a darker chunk for the ones that have a lot of white.

Thanks- I do shoot in RAW as it is much better for the post processing. I use Photoshop and Lightroom. Saved this one as a jpeg for the upload.

I sometimes set up a booth at rabbit shows and take pictures of the the kids with their winning rabbits. I started with continuous lights - two soft boxes with 5 bulbs in each unit. About a year ago, I purchased two Altura flash units, a trigger kit and two 32" octagon soft boxes. I like the ease of set up for the speedlights compared to the continuous lights however I occasionally have issues with kids who wear glasses - flash glare on on or around the eyes and shadows on their face from the frames. I ask the kids to drop their heads slightly, but since they are also dealing with a sometimes not cooperative rabbits they forget or don't understand.

I use a 5 foot table covered with a piece of light colored carpet. I try to keep the backdrop at least 2 feet in back of the table. The soft boxes are located at each front corner of the table - one slightly higher than the other. I try to keep them close to the table to decrease the kids tripping over them and knocking them done... had that happen several times but I managed to grab the light before it hit the floor. I am usually very limited on space.. like 8 feet wide and maybe 10 feet deep. I stand out in the walkways anywhere from 8 - 10 feet in front of the table.

I have a Nikon D7100 with a Tamaron 17-50 2.8 lens. Setting for this photo: ISO 252, 3.5 @ 1/160. The speed lights were set at 1/32 poser.

I sometimes have to decrease the highlights in post as the front of the carpet is washed out...so I know the lights are hot on the front of the table but as I stated above, I want to try to keep them close to the table for safety reasons but if I need to, I will move them farther away.

Any help is appreciated. Would love to do more creative stuff as far as portraits, but this is what the kids want.

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Thanks for your responses. Will look at uploading some pics later. I'm actually heading out of town very soon to do a photo/video shoot. I take pictures of kids and their winning rabbits at rabbit shows. Just a basic set up - backdrop, a couple of speed lights and a table for their rabbit with some props that indicate the award and they stand behind it. Kids and parents love it. We have a Workshop that I will video - not with the camera but with my iPhone and external mic.

Yes, this is a used body - Nikon D7100. In the menu under the fine tuning there is a "List Saved Values" and under that I found multiple lenses listed and the adjustments. Assumed there were lenses from the previous owner. When I saw this, it made me wonder if my lenses needed to be adjusted. I have the kit lens that came with the D5100, A Nikon 55-200 4-5.6, a Sigma 70-300 4-5.6 and a Tamron 17-50 2.8.

There was very limited info in the manual- if focusing in front do this, if focusing in back- do this. Nothing outlined a process to determine if an adjustment is necessary and how to accurately fine tune. A link was provided that layer out the process- steps to take to determine if this is necessary.

In the camera menu, I found several saved adjustments for multiple lenses which got me wondering if this is really necessary.

Thanks everyone for your comments. Honestly I think it is just me getting used to this heavier camera. I downloaded and printed a focus sheet and using my tripod and remote - the photos were fine. Just need to work on my technique

I try not to shoot wide open - usually 3.5 as I am usually taking pics of kids and really need a greater DOF. Sometimes yes they are less than sharp but sometimes seem tack sharp. Haven't used the camera on a tripod so could be operator error.

I recently upgraded to a "new to me" camera that has the lens fine tuning feature. I have read the instructions on how to, but wondering A.) if it is necessary and B.) is there a process I should follow to get the tuning correct?

Any assistance is appreciated.