For me, on my iPhone I use
Photopills
Helicon remote
Photo shop express
Lightroom cc
And a weather app called MeteoEarth
jackm1943 wrote:
If you're really serious about getting into focus stacking, you should look into Zerene and/or Helicon Focus. Both are much easier, faster, and better than Photoshop and both have free one-month trials and are relatively inexpensive.
Will definitely take a look Jack - 👍🏼
Mark Sturtevant wrote:
There is HDR merging, but you want focus stacking.
There are several videos on YouTube about stacking in Photoshop but I don't see any in LightRoom. Perhaps that program does not do it.
Ha! That’s what I was getting muddled with.. yes, it’s the focus stacking I’m after - absolutely. I’ve got Photoshop though rather daunted by it but I’ll take a butchers..
Ray, I’ll check those programmes out, thanks.
Mark, again you bring to the beginner (me) salient points that are great and I do take on board this is 'read' rather than 'practice' born. Nonetheless, sometimes it's the way something is explained that can help or hinder a person's initial foray into new territory.
Ray, I'm taking on board the very small increments required for best stacking results, plus the comment re ensuring as little changes between shots as possible...thanks for the input.
Today I have tried taking shots of an onion skin, with added lighting (a small 6 led Manfrotto light) and using the rail. Your comment re a lower iso Mark, is noted though and I think I'll need more light than I currently have.
I haven't been overly successful as yet in learning how small an increment I really need...hampered big time by the fact that due to disability I had failed to take the requirement of comfort as I was stuck for a long time in one fixed position.
Re stacking. I did put the photos I did get, into lightroom but only found a merge (HDR) option and wasn't sure if that was what was needed. Further research needed.
Needless to say, I 100% appreciate the comments and help. I WILL persist, I will get the hang of this. Health does not always permit me ease with anything I do, but I love what people achieve in the 1:1 macro field and hope for some success.
Brilliant Rick - and presumably I have it on manual focus? I thought using live view would be more accurate..
Jackm and Bill, thank you for replying. You have covered issues that are helpful.
Mark - many thanks, that is exactly what I wanted to know... such an ignorant question I know but my query was whether I moved the camera as well as refocusing...
This is quite a learning curve for me and I appreciate all your help.
Tremendous shots! Such beautiful photographs.
You mention using a long lens, may I ask what lens you used?
Please forgive such a beginner’s question, but I have tried searching everywhere for an answer and not found a definitive answer. Perhaps it’s too obvious a question..
I have a 2-way focusing rail and my Canon 70D camera. I wish to take a series of photos, indoors, of an inanimate small object, for instance a button or a leaf.
I set my camera on a tripod and using live view I focus on the point nearest the camera and take a picture.
Then what...
Do I use the rail to move the camera in a very small increment nearer the object AND AT THE SAME TIME re-focus on a point SLIGHTLY further back from the initial shot for my next picture?
OR
Do I not alter the camera focus from it’s previous focus setting in any way but merely use the rail to move the camera forward?
It’s this aspect that I’m stuck on; whether I have to refocus on a further back point once I’ve repositioned the camera via the rail.
Great great idea. I know how hard I find things in my wheelchair... I do hope there is a heap of support out there
The ‘why’s and ‘how’ you have explained perfectly - as a beginner this is invaluable.
Your picture is stunning and captures all the atmosphere/history/age you had set your heart on!
Thank you Oneshotone18 for asking this question!
As a complete numbskull at all this, I too have struggled to grasp the concept. I have attempted to play around with layers etc but even with YouTube etc, nothing seemed to get through.
But Big-guy and Linda’s clear explanations finally got through to me - my thanks to them, and as I say, HUGE thanks to the OP for asking what I dare not.
I love UHH!
Thanks, I’d already read the blurb re live view before posting and you are right, ambient temperature is important, though with cooler temps at the moment in the uk I didn’t feel that was an issue.
Nor did I take many photos before it froze everything.
Perhaps this mirror thing is the problem as a previous responder mentioned, perhaps it is sticky.
It’s certainly frustrating and I’m hoping it won’t be too costly an issue to correct.
I did think it sounded like a mirror clicking each time I tried turning it on. I’ll have to find a store.. not so many around these days. Hope it’s something they can sort.
nadelewitz wrote:
How long are you leaving Live View on?
The camera heats up in Live View mode. Maybe you are overheating.
Thanks, I did wonder about that - since obviously it hadn’t been a battery issue. The first instance I can’t say how long I was usiulive view, I was finding my way with it, so indeed i could have been longer than I thought. The 2nd time, using it today, I was taking 4 or 5 photos at any one time and then turning it off for a few minutes before unsuitable again. Is that too much, would that be enough to cause it to overheat do you reckon?