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Posts for: out4life2016
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Nov 11, 2021 08:25:53   #
Architect1776 wrote:
No enhancement. Film scanned and noise removed. Polarizer was used, perhaps you would consider that enhancement.


Funny the lighter hazing around the Mountian says it’s been enhanced. I’ve never had polarizer do that. See example below. Notice the color shade difference closer to the Mountian. Maybe I’m wrong just opinion from my own experience


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Nov 11, 2021 08:17:25   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
Do you still have it and can take an image of the close-up details that conveys this issue to those who can't physically inspect in our own hands?

Sorry I no longer have the print that was shipped back to me. I went with another lab and they were able to put the photo on metal with no problem. Grant it wasn’t cheap. Almost 200 more then the first lab which was Optimal print. This time I used ArtBeats studios. No problems at all.
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Nov 9, 2021 11:09:27   #
[quote=CHG_CANON]Starting with the first image, I see nothing in the pixel-level details that would be 'pixelated' in a 36x48 print. The image is currently sized 6240x4160px, for about a 130 pixel per inch (PPI) resolution at 36x48in. If this was the print file, there is the issue that the colorspace is not sRGB, but that should impact the printed colors, not the fine details of the print. Are you saying you got a printed copy back of this exact image file and there's problems, or something else?[/quote
Yes I sent this file out to Optimal Prints to be put on metal. 36Hx42L and is came back looking pixelated and just terrible. Not to mention it was bent really bad on two corners but that was due to shipping. They promised to reprint but of course that never happened. Photo looked terrible
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Nov 8, 2021 10:21:45   #
Nice work however i feel it was alittle over enhanced.
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Nov 8, 2021 09:29:38   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
The final waterfall image is sized 4272x2848 (12MP) that is much less than the original 26MP of the EOS 6DII (6240x4160). Was this image resized to 'show' on UHH? Or, is this the print file? We should investigate this image and maybe unravel a common issue in how you're processing your files for print.


Actually as always i look forward to your advice and wisdom. The final waterfall was shot with a canon T3 two years ago and only edited on windows 10 edit program. I had it enlarged to a 24x36 and printed famed and matted and it looked great. Actually sold three copies for 375.00 each. AThe problem seems to be when i want to go bigger and since now im putting my work on either metal or Acrylic.
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Nov 8, 2021 06:30:45   #
currently i am shooting with a Canon 6D MarkII. I like to have my photos enlarged and put on metal or acrylic. I am looking to have some really large sizes done 36Lx48H. The problem i am having is when photos are blown up to the size they become really pixelated and look terrible. What am i doing wrong? Is my camera just not suited for that large print. The last print Photo I took with my T3 Rebel and it prints to a 24x36 and doesnt look pixilated..


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Jun 27, 2021 10:25:41   #
I want to think all for your reply. I have now purchased a second 6D MarkII used for 700 dollars. It’s in good shap and everything’s works great. No battery pack like my other but I can live without it.
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Jun 20, 2021 11:16:00   #
frankraney wrote:
500=1500 for 4 hrs.
Boudoir=150/hr and up
These prices is for your time only.
I would do a search for pricing in your area and adjust accordingly. If your work is superior to others, or you provide other
products, you could charge more.


My granddaughter is a boudoir photographer in Phoenix and gets $3000 and up per shoot. She does have packages that includes albums etc.

My thought is, at $500, you are underpricing yourself. Unless for some reason the fees in your area are a lot less.
500=1500 for 4 hrs. br Boudoir=150/hr and up br Th... (show quote)


Thank You i will look at pricing however there are a few so called pros in the area. Im not saying im as good as they are but i can hold my own ground. I do this more for the hobby aspect. Boudoir shooting is a very hard field when your a man. Most clients prefer women shooters and therefore cell phones and a female friend are aften used. Weddings are easier to book however finding the time for me to edit and produce things like albums and such are hard since i dribve a semi truck and am gone a few weeks at a time.
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Jun 20, 2021 09:36:30   #
frankraney wrote:
I agree with everything Paul says. He is right on.

My question is why do cheap? I would add another zero.


Can you give more detail on what you mean by adding another zero
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Jun 20, 2021 09:34:52   #
olemikey wrote:
Yes you need a backup body: You absolutely do not want to have a failure.....if your contracts/agreement structure do not absolve/protect you from litigation.... you could experience the pain and suffering of "self funding" a wedding (or other) re-shoot, including the cost of bringing back guests, court costs, etc. I used to shoot wedding and other activities, another photographer friend suffered greatly financially (and reputation) from a large/costly wedding fail - I do not remember the amount now but it was way north of $10K (in the nineties). Even if nothing fancy, a backup body should be high on your list. Protect yourself!! Nice people/families can turn vicious with a fail of this sort..........
With that said, good luck with your venture.
Yes you need a backup body: You absolutely do not ... (show quote)


Thank You and i totally agree with you. I will be purchasing a second body just for those reasons. I do however have a form drawn up stating that i am in no way a professional photographer and only shoot as a hobby. Any malfunction of equipment or failure will result in return of money taken and if possible a reshoot at clients expense.
I require this from both husband to be and wife to be signed and dated in advance.
However you are correct, the damage to my reputation could be very costly in the long run.
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Jun 20, 2021 09:12:31   #
n4jee wrote:
No question, a backup body. And why 2 50mm lenses?
I would stick with full frame bodies. The 24-105 would be your "Normal" lens for the majority of your event activity. The 70-200 will give you all the reach you need for events. The 50 and 85 for low light use. I doubt you'll use the Tamron's professionally for the areas that you are focusing on.


Thank you, you are correct the Tamron lenses are used only for wildlife where i need that extra reach. the reason i have two 50mm was because I did a few head shots with the 1.8 and a friend of mine let me use the 1.4 for the same head shots. 1.4 came out better with the creamy background they were really looking for so i went ahead and bought it also.
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Jun 20, 2021 09:04:16   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
Don't sink money into an unused 'back up'. Don't create a 'difference' either between your bodies where you end up using one over the other, thus creating this unused back-up. Find another used EOS 6DII and begin to work with one lens on one body and a complementary lens on the other. I say this looking at the business aspect, where everything needs to work the same and as expected with no mental adjustments in the field. But, you might find another body for your long 150-600 Tamron for wildlife makes sense too. The 'why' of another body should be fully considered. Just don't sink money into something that sits on the shelf unused or ends up creating that situation.

I don't see anything missing your lenses. You can throw money at faster apertures, but you won't get anything sharper than these three primes unless you change both to mirrorless lenses and a mirrorless body. Not an expensive idea that is worth pursuing now.
Don't sink money into an unused 'back up'. Don't c... (show quote)


Thank you and as always your advice is well taken and followed. i never considered buying a second 6D markII. It has been a really great camera for me other then a few issues here and there with lower light shooting, seems to want to hunt alittle more then i expected. Thats probably the lens more then the camera. when i purchased the 70-200mm F4 I really should have waited another couple weeks and gotten the F2 version. Im not really into this for the money, just enjoy shooting and people i have found to be most enjoyable.
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Jun 20, 2021 07:59:11   #
Its been awhile since my last post and my photography has really been stepping up lately with people photography.
Last night i did my first boudoir shoot that was actually a paid shoot and a birthday shoot last weekend. I shot my first wedding a few weeks back and have another wedding coming up in July which i was able to book from the last wedding. Everyone seems to be happy with my work and word is starting to get around. The pricing could be a big reason also. Weddings i charge 500 with only simple editing out of light room and only on so many photos. usually 1/4 of photos taken. they are given a few sample photos by email then rest is put on thumb drive and sent to them.
I use an IPAD to show the photos straight out the camera that same day as the shoot if they just want the photos then i still charge the 500.
Boudoir shoots I only charge 150-250 depending on what the customer wants. Depending on if customer wants different lighting and such. i have a portable studio lighting set with soft boxes and umbrellas along with several Godox speed lights I use with it and continuous lighting.
I have several events coming up everything from Graduation photos to a wedding and a few family portrait bookings.
The gear that i am shooting with now is a Canon 6D MarkII with 4 different lenses. 24-105L series F4, 50mm F1.8, 50mm F1.4, 85mm F1.8, and a 70-200L series F4 USMIII. The rest of my gear includes a Tamron 28-300 vc and Tamron 150-600 GenIII. I have three Godox speed lights which i use in a studio lighting kit if I dont want to use the continuous lighting.
So here is the big question should i spend more money on another lens or should i buy a second camera for back up. Im looking at the Canon 90D for that crop factor and extra reach with my lenses and the Canon 5D MarkIV for its just all out greatness.
Opinions and advice is greatly welcomed. Thank You in advance.
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Jan 23, 2021 04:34:58   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
What have you watched so far? Have you investigated the video training from the Support section on Adobe.com? Have you watched Anthony Morganti on utube?

These are complex pieces of software with no expectation they can be learned or understood by just clicking around and figuring it out alone. PS is the far more complex of the two. You'd be better served starting with only LR, studying / using LR alone. Spend a week / month / 6-months just on LR and get a solid library management approach and the basics of editing in LR. Then, the more complex and powerful PS will be easier to address for the advanced as-needed work on your images.

At this point, include "getting started" into your various google and utube searches. Also, focus just on new images, not a mass-import of your existing image portfolio. Defer to a future point the effort to import all your legacy images into LR. You'll be less overwhelmed and less likely to need to redo this 'mass import' if you wait a bit and just focus on 'new' images.
What have you watched so far? Have you investigate... (show quote)


Thank You for you advice and help, as always you are a great source of information. I have both versions of lightroom and the newest version of photoshop. I pay 10 dollars a month for all three which isnt going to break the bank by any means. The computer did that. could have bout a really nice L series lens for what i paid for this last Black Friday. But like i said im trying to step it up. So far I have watched a few tutorals on the program itself and a few on youtube basically whatever pops up but i really need a starting point. I am struggling just to import photos and export them. Starting fresh with new photos seems like a really good idea and i wiull be out taking new photos today at the Savannah River Rapids since its suppose to be a nice clear and sunny day. Several people have mentioned Scott Kellys book which i may check out and i seen a book, Light Room For Dummies, that i may check out. Even it is 452 pages long.
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Jan 23, 2021 04:24:49   #
DWU2 wrote:
Before offering any advice, can you clarify which version of Lightroom? There are 2 versions which can run on a computer, and Adobe has gone out of their way to confuse everyone thoroughly. One is called "Lightroom," and the other is called "Lightroom Classic." For serious photographers, I'd recommend LR Classic. But, if you have one version and are watching training videos on the other, that's going to be totally confusing!

I very much enjoy using Photoshop, but the learning curve is very long, and can be frustrating. I don't recommend trying to learn LR and PS at the same time. You can do all the basic edits and manage your photos in Lightroom Classic. Learn that first, and once you feel confident with it, then you can begin learning PS. If you are the type of person who learns better from books, I'd recommend Scott Kelby's book.
Before offering any advice, can you clarify which ... (show quote)
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