If it is the drives, perhaps you should unplug them all, use LR. If it doesn't crash, plug one of the drives in, use LR. If it doesn't crash, continue with only plugging in one at a time. If LR doesn't crash with any one of them, then plug in two at a time. You did not say how many drives you have plugged in at once, but this process of elimination may point to one of them.

Another thing to consider is whether your computer has enough RAM for LR.

There has always been a problem with LR crashing. Usually because something got corrupted. Adobe customer service was able to fix it by taking remote control of the computer and looking around for a cause. Unfortunately not all of the people are good enough to do this, so I have experienced having to go back into the chat and get someone else. I've even disconnected from someone who obviously was lost!
If it is only happening w/LR, I would try Adobe again.

The exposure triangle [shutter speed, aperture, ISO] is important to understand. Changing one affects how the others work. Until you get used to thinking in terms of those interactions, you will need to consciously consider your settings. And experiment.

First thing is to decide what setting will benefit the subject most. If light is bright, ISO can be lower than if it is darker. Motion, as in BIF, needs a fast shutter speed, more than 1/500. Even birds on a nest or at a feeder will move a lot, so fast shutter speed is recommended. Wider aperture will let in more light, but it also will reduce depth of field. If the subject does not require a lot of front to back focus, wide open can work. But reducing the aperture size, reduces the amount of light coming in, and in turn results in a greater depth of field.

Keep in mind that you can underexpose or overexpose within limits. This is where the "blinkies" come into play - they let you know where highlights are blown out. The histogram can also help by showing if either bright or dark are climbing the sides indicating total white or black [neither of which can be recovered in post processing].

In order not to miss an important shot, go out and practice. Shoot the chickadees and other birds that come to your feeders or are just in the yard sitting on branches. Experiment with how to get the best overall exposure. There are situations where it is extremely difficult to get everything exactly the way you want without post processing, but you may be able to get the important part of the image right. I have often had images that came out of the camera needing very little editing [none would have been OK, but I can't resist trying to get it perfect!].

Another suggestion - try shooting in both RAW and .JPG. That will give you the option of editing later when you decide to begin that part of your photography experience.

I also recommend looking at Puget Systems website. My desktop was originally built for me by a local computer guy for a bit over $1,000. Last year I decided it was due for some upgrades, and I used information from Puget to guide my choices. I did not change out everything, still have some other parts to replace before they fail, and everything fit into the original tower. If you can re-use the one you have, that might save a little money. Just have to make sure it has the right "slots" for the replacement components.

Have you had your computer "diagnosed"? It is possible some parts are still OK, although a completely new build would be ideal! We have a computer repair place reasonably close, they charge for diagnosis, but it is better than the free diagnosis at Staples. Plus the technicians understand more about the inner workings. I didn't trust myself to change out components, so paid them to do it. But I learned a lot while researching and might try it myself next time!

For purchasing components, I used NewEgg and B&H. There are places recommended by others that are probably just as good. For me it was a matter of where I could find the products I wanted and also get the best price!

Graduated ND filters are best used for scenes like bright skies and dark foregrounds [or the opposite], and sunrise/sunset type of images. Because they have a central area that gradually changes from clear to dark, you want to be able to move the "horizon" to accommodate your chosen composition. This calls for a rectangular filter, which can be used hand-held. I use Singh-Ray Galen Rowell. Hand-holding takes a little practice to make sure the entire lens is covered and also not to press hard enough to cause camera shake, but it is easy enough to do. I never liked the filter holder because it was cumbersome and switching back and forth between filter and no filter was not quick and easy.

The screw-in filters have the X problem if not properly used, and the "horizon" is at a set position.

There are different styles of Grad ND Filters besides the standard one ["soft edge"]. The "hard edge" has a sharp demarcation between light and dark. There are also ones known as Reverse Grad ND, which has the transition from the middle to the edges, with darkest area in the middle.

The standard densities are 1-4 stops, with 4 stops [or 1.2] being the one I prefer.

If shooting where the landscape is very uneven, such as mountains, these filters will not be as useful as when the horizon is fairly level. But they can still be used as long as you are willing to do some post processing to compensate.

Many say "do it all in pp", but the editing programs can NOT bring back blown out highlights. So if you cannot do multiple shots for HDR, you still may need to use a filter.

RRS is definitely high quality equipment. The first item I bought from them was a clamp and plate. Opened the box, held them, examined them, felt the quality! Now I have the complete tripod set-up and will probably never need another. You can take them apart if needed for cleaning, you can get replacement parts such as the feet [somehow one unscrewed and got lost!]. Their customer service is exceptional, the people very helpful with solving issues of what to put together for the best system. The only "drawback" for many is the cost, but in my opinion, it is worth it.

Even if you don't buy from RRS, take a look at their online article about how to choose a tripod. It lays out the principles behind why, what to look for. Here is the link:

http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/which-tripod-is-right-for-me

If you respond to posts using the "quote reply" button, this will include the name and message so we will know to whom you are speaking!

If you want the darkness to cover the whole lens, the B+W screw-on filter is a good choice. If you want a graduated filter, then you will want to go with the rectangular ones, which can be used hand-held. For use with a lens hood, the rectangular ones won't work. You may also want to consider a circular polarizer screw-in filter from B+W, although they work best when the sun is at 90 degrees to the lens.

As for a screw-in filter size, 77mm is only good to use on a lens that measures 77mm. For larger or smaller, a separate filter in a correct measurement for each lens is needed.

As you mentioned, focus is often better set before putting on the filter unless conditions are bright enough to allow the AF to function with it on.

You live on Long Island. Drive into NYC and visit B&H's store. They have just about anything you could want, including Really Right Stuff, which until recently was only available directly from RRS. Look them up online, and do some comparisons. I believe the site will tell you whether an item is in stock and probably also if it is in the store. Plus you can also call and ask if ones you want to see are available for examination at the store rather than at the warehouse.

Gene has given you the right information. You get what you pay for.

Since the drive is less than a year old, the company should replace it under warranty. I had the same thing happen with a drive less than a year old, and the replacement is working very well. For whatever reason the failure occurred, usually another of the same model may not have the same flaw.

Now I use a Samsung SSD for programs, and HGST Ultrastar HDD for documents. Both have a 5 year warranty. The HGST is technically an internal drive, but with a case with a fan to house it, turns it into an external drive.

If the drives are consumer-grade they have shorter warranties and not as good a build, making them more likely to fail. The better ones have the longer warranties which means better build and decreases chances for failure. Of course, backups still recommended because all drives will eventually fail.

I think the OP got the wrong size filter, which is why an adapter was needed. It seems from the description that the filter must be larger, which would explain why the hood won't fit!

Thank you!

No, not true macro. But can be cropped down and retain a good amount of detail. I just mentioned it in case you had to wait before buying a good macro lens. I recommend longer focal lengths if you are doing critters that will spook if you get too close! 105mm is good, I have a 150mm macro lens because I love to do butterflies, bees, ants, etc.

Glad you have decided on a system that works for you. Organizing is easier when you have a plan. It can be time consuming, and best not to try to accomplish too much at once. The brain gets fatigued...

Keep in mind that storage is cheap these days. This means that it is possible to keep as much data as you want, without getting rid of anything you might want later on. My advice is to be sure to KEEP the RAW files. They are like negatives were in film photography. You can always regenerate any image from the RAW or re-edit to reflect newly learned techniques.

The only .jpg files I keep are ones that I will share in social media, in a folder called "Watermarks" because I add a watermark to them. They can be reproduced by creating a new image copy from the original edited version and saving it as .jpg.

If you have a huge number of images, you may want to get some larger external HD's. And be sure to back up your images with at least one, but better two, copies. It is not IF a hard drive will fail, but WHEN!