Definitly all shade for one reason: the soft lighting will be much better.
mdorn wrote:
Film? Sorry... trying to understand your comment. So are you saying the histogram is only useful for film, but not so much for digital? If I adjust the exposure for the shadows, then reduce the overall exposure, aren't I defeating the purpose? Sorry. Maybe I'm confused because of your film reference.
Film, as in digital film--ones and zeros on your digital memory card.
Google ETTR (Expose To The Right) and read the articles on the web (and comments here on this forum).
After you understand ETTR, google EBTR photography (Expose Beyond The Right).
mdorn wrote:
How many photographers rely on this to get the right exposure? I was told recently that the attached photo was OVER exposed, but the histogram shows that it isn't. What's your opinion? Thanks. -M
The purpose of the histogram is to maximize the use of the film, which results in the best details in the shadows.
Once that is done, you can adjust the exposure in pp to produce the desired exposure.
You cannot depend on a histogram to give the correct exposure, but it will maximize the use of the film.
Yes, get Bryon Peterson's book.
Also, google ETTR (or search this forum). I use this whenever I can, which is probably 99% of the time.
Blessings,
Alan
MaggieMay1978 wrote:
I currently shoot professionally and have two 6D camera bodies. 24-70 2.8 and 70-200 2.8 17-40 f4 50mm - I am thinking of upgrading one of my cameras in the new year to a 1DX...should or shouldn't I?
This is a small point, but worth mentioning.
Right now both cameras have the same controls, and they are in identical positions. Switching from one 6d to another is a no-brainer.
Are the controls on the 1DX similar? If not it may slow you down for a while (or longer). Speed and frustration?
OTH, you could always buy TWO 1DXs, ha!
Sounds interesting.
What part of eastern shore?
Alan
I use the free version of iDrive and am thinking about upgrading (more space). Anyone have experience with iDrive?
eggiecom wrote:
Now I have this screen and zoom button that allows me to check a picture on the fly and delete it if it's a mess. But I'm confused. This sucker can enlarge the photo until I can see pixels. So, where do I stop? I know it sounds stupid, but how sharp is tack sharp?
Thanks!
I am asking myself the same question as of recent.
Here is my current thinking:
Following is a reference to photos before post processing.
Ultimately, the limiting factor is pixel size. If everything was done 'perfectly' (aka resulting in perfect sharpness) then we could blow up the photo til the pixels started to appear. They will always be there and no matter what we do (before post), we cannot do better than that.
Hence there is no need to try to achieve sharpness beyond the that point. Using my own crude terminology, my goal is to to have sharpness such that blurred edges are no more than approx one pixel wide. I am new to this, but nonetheless I have on occasion gotten close to this.
This is my goal. Sometimes (probably quite often) it will be over kill but it will allow croping to the max when needed. It also means that cameras with more pixels have more challenges and opportunities, but isn't that why we pay extra for more pixels?
Hope this helps.
Alan
Nice.
The fly must have been taking posing lessons.
Now that is one pair of gloves!
Alan
NormanHarley wrote:
I went out shooting jackrabbits this morning and the only gloves that I currently have that have any feel in them are just brown cotton gloves. All of my insulated gloves make it impossible to adjust or feel my camera. My fingers froze even though I took two pair. What gloves do you recommend, and where do you order them? Links would be appreciated!
Norman Lowe
I just bought these about a month ago.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001L431T6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1Note: there is no velcro, hence no noise when opening finger holes.
I like using them.
Alan
Dngallagher wrote:
Alan:
Lightroom does not look at disk folders to find images - it looks in it's catalog which points to where the image is stored, so if you move the actual image with Windows Explorer, Lightroom's catalog will not know about that and then Lightroom loses where the image really is located.
I think one of the biggest issues with Lightroom for new users is understanding the catalog concept. Once that is down using Lightroom is much much easier.
In my opinion, you can't beat Lightroom for photo management and editing as an all in one package.
Alan: br Lightroom does not look at disk folders t... (
show quote)
So, it seems that I can copy my photos to my hard drive sub directories like I have been doing in the past, and then use Lightroom, just as long as I don't move the photo after using Lightroom.
Thank you for the explanation,
Alan
Very suspicious.
Yes, why does it take 4 years to fix a software glitch.
Something else must be going on.
The government just killed the A10 project without any replacement.
The government killed the Space Shuttle with out any replacement, making us dependent on our enemy, Russia.
Are we getting setup for losing WWIII?
I hate to think thoughts like this about our government, but nowadays I wonder.
Alan