Ok....one more....
when the light is off....
are you
Umm....
De-Lighted?
Since the light works when the switch is used, there has to be a switch in there somewhere. My bet....where the hinges are inside the oven itself. On one side or the other. Possibly, where the top of the door meets top of oven when closed?
But....but...but....can you use a L.E.D. bulb in there to prevent global ovenning?
....and that my friends, is where the model of city-workers came from.....lol!
I have replaced many tubes. Very easy to wire them without the ballasts. More efficient as well. YouTube is your installation friend! Be sure to power them off! You will be totally amazed with the instant full brightness and power savings. These things power on instantly, unlike fluorescents, that take a few minutes to light up fully, MORESO in cold weather. Also, these last far longer too. I bought 6 lamps to test 10 years ago. I put 2 lamps away for a pair to compare later, 2 more on a circuit with 2 fluorescents that I let run continuously, and 2 of each on an automatic switch that turns that pair on and off every 3 hours. Results were.....after 2 years, the always on fluorescents failed. Replaced them, 2 years again. Replaced them, and quit as the ballast failed. Those LEDs are still running continuously after 10 years, although, they are only about 80% as bright as new. The 2 pairs on the switched circuit- fluorescents failed in 7 months, and those replacements failed almost 8 months later. Ballasts failed in about 3 years when I terminated that part of the test. The LEDs are still running, switched, and there is about a 5% difference in brightness. LEDs tend not to fail, but they do get dimmer as they get used. Most LEDs are rated in hours to a certain percentage of their lumens output, not necessarily to fail completely.
Just one more word, the fluorescents were 40 watt t-12's, not the newer t-8's. The t8's are only slightly more efficient as the 12's, but they both have Mercury, and require ballasts, replacements and constant cleaning due to the heating as they cycle on and off. One pair of 12's require 2 X 40 watts plus another 60 watts or so for the ballast, (140watts) plus heat generated. One pair of LED replacements, 10 year old units, 32 watts for the pair. This may not seem much, but a store we did, saved the owner over 800.00 a year, and with NO maintenance. Plus, we did not factor in his lowered air conditioning bill. He figured his heating bill went up slightly, tho, but not much, as these are high in the ceiling and would not affect the heating of the lower areas much, due to heat rising.
I did a theater lighting system in LED in 2007. Went from 90,000 watts measured, plus requiring additional 12 tons of air conditioning to maintain cooling, to 3,700 watts, shaving the same 12 tons.
Sorry for the long post, but I wanted you to see the realities of LEDs. Yes, there is an up front cost that is getting less and less, but they are worth it in maintenance hours saved, and electrical use. Some local utilities will even give rebates for these projects!
This tip actually works. I was also told to hit the exposed threads with a wire brush to help clear out the threads a bit before backing off the nut. I was shown this many years ago, but used sealing wax or paraffin, like used for sealing jelly and jam. The idea is not to super heat it with a torch, but the heating differential actually sucks the wax deeper into the threads. Anyone who has sweated copper pipes with solder sees how this works. Another tip would to add never seize to the threads when reassembling to prevent it from happening again.
Yes, I have seen the wild horses thru there as well. Another spot the horses are regularly seen, is where the Verde river crosses SR. 87. There are several nice meadows there. When all else fails, hit the casino....lol.....All in the same area.
Thanks for the great set of photos. Another great place in the Valley of the Sun to go, is north on Power Road out in Mesa to the Salt River behind the diversion dam. Great place to canoe or take photos. Many of the spots now require Tonto Day Use Passes. 6.00 at many of the local businesses. Long stretches of slow moving water and lots of birding (fishing, too) opportunities. Places like these make it hard to believe we are in the desert!
Thanks for the pic! Always amazes me when I see older equipment like this or machinery. The craftsmanship, details and imbellishments they always had! It was like....each craftsman left their marks of pride!
Eeneloop batteries are rated at a self-discharge rate of less than 1% a month. As always, your results will vary. Topping off is not a problem with these batteries. Topping off means running them thru a charger before you use them if they have not been used for several months. Always charge them after each use. If they have been charged within the past month or 2, then no need for topping off. They also perform better over time if you run them hard and recharge them fully once in a while. NiMh batteries are not at all like NiCad batteries, as they do not suffer from "memory".
Hope this helps.
Beautiful view of the Superstition Mountains!
Now, that is what I call.....
A Cheep Shot!
Thanks for the share. I really like the details!
Also, thanks to all who post here everyday, such a great variety of subjects from the Hoggers!
There is no separation of power. The same lines are used for any power generated. What the "initiative" does, is allow you to help pay for it. My excess power goes onto the grid, reducing the need for power generated at the source, such as a power plant. I sell my excess power to the grid at .03 per kW. It probably travels as far as my next door neighbors. The utility then sells it to them at .13 per kW. I , and others like me have reduced the strain on the grid, and also have reduced the need for the local power plants to add production during the day. Then come nightfall, I buy back what I need.