I was a member for years and canceled my membership. Great courses, well organized, but most of the information is available for free on Youtube. Not the same lectures, nor the presenters, but similar content and for the low cost of free. The coupons never save me anything substantial.

If you are new to photography or looking to get intensive info on a specific topic, and you can't find it on Youtube, it's great. Not a long-haul proposition for me.

All taken with 1.4, 2.0 or stacked 1.4 and 2.0 on 24-70 2.8 IS II. All with autofocus. All canon glass. Some of the plane photos have a new sky dropped in with Luminar Neo.

Uh..... I have both the 1.4 and 2.0 on Canon. Both autofocus. I use each one depending on the situation and how much extra reach and light needed/available. I have also stacked them and maybe it's just my luck - but that autofocus works well also. They are inexpensive if purchased used, and I would try them out before you take advice from incorrect sources. Used, on canon 70-200 IS 2.8, and canon 300 2.8.

Took 5 minutes in Photoshop with the clone tool (looks line a rubber stamp in the tools bar.) I tried the patch tool first with not great results. You can find out how to use the clone tool on Youtube.

I hope this is what you were looking for.

Caution with Helicopter tours. I was just on one last weekend. Took a lot of gear planning of getting dream shots from high above and when landing in the canyon. Was on ride with some very very heavy people (copter carries 6) and we needed assigned seats to distribute passenger weights for safety. I got stuck in the rear seat in the middle with no opportunity to switch.... Loved the ride but no shots.

Make sure when you sign up for ride that you specify your photography expectations or you too may wind up in the back seat without a window.

Also, they dont allow bags of any kind so gear to a minimum.

Stan, Regardless of which exposure mode you use (Manual included), the camera will bracket HDR exposures by adjusting the shutter speed or ISO rather than the aperture. HDR is different than bracketing. In hdr mode the camera will automatically take 1 exposure how you set your camera. 1 brighter, 1 darker. It will NOT take 3 of the same exposures buy adjusting the ISO and shutter speed. (this is per the Canon manual)

HDR Mode is different from bracketing.

I usually use Aperature Priority (canon 5D3) with variable ISO and let the camera figure the rest out. Sometimes during the day Ill select HDR with TV set to 1/8 of a second. The longer exposure will tighten down my aperature. The camera will keep the same exposure but will make sure 1/8 of a second is your "standard +-0 shot" It will adjust the time above and below +-2 EV again keeping the same aperature. Canon on either TV or AV will keep the aperature and adjust the time.

The picture above was taken in Amsterdam. Camera set to HDR 1/8 of a second. The camera took 3 shots. One 1/8 of a second, One 1/4 of a second, and 1 at about 5 seconds. The final image was adjusted with Photomatix Pro.

When I saw the orange streaks, I thought it was a problem with processing like an old negative that got scratched during processing. The correction took under 60 seconds with the healing brush in Photoshop.

Fantastic job. Worthy of wall framing!

(Download)

I really like them all, however, the orange streaks are distracting from the image. If you could photoshop out the streaks, I would like #3. Currently, #1 is the clear winner. Well done!

What lens are you using? You don't want a variable aperture lens. My recommendation is to use a lens that can handle F2.8. This should let you not go crazy with the ISO and get grainy shots. If this isn't working, I would agree with the above posts and use TTL flash with Gary Fong diffuser.

I think a strong depth of field is opposite of what everyone else is talking about. When I think about strong depth of field, I think about pulling subject out of the photo and bokeh behind. By pulling out your subject with a 2.8 (or larger) aperature you get a strong bokeh and show strong depth of field. The aperature of 16 will have everything in focus that shows no depth of field. The hyperfocal point also makes the best chance of everything in focus removing the depth of field.

Am I thinking backwards?

Western Michigan is amazing for pics in all seasons. These pics were taken in Traverse City and by the Sleeping Bear Sand Dunes. I would recommend the Muskogen Park where they have "Silversides" a WWII Diesel Submarine to board, walk around and photograph. Great pics from the Sub.

Enjoy your trip.

Scott Kelby recommends 1 lens for travel photography for Canon. It's the Tamron 16-300. I haven't purchased it yet, as I'm waiting for Canon to come out with this type of travel lens, similar to Nikon's travel kit. Most vacation pics I take with Canon 16-35 2.8 IS II. I usually bring a 24-105 or 24-70 but rarely bring it out. The 16-15 covers most of what I need. Not worried about portraiture. Great for landscapes and architecture photos. Can do big groups without backing up a mile. Don't see a lot of distortion above 24mm. It works for me. Haven't seen any need to take long zoom on any trips. Can crop in post process.

Just my 2 cents. Remember to focus on your new bride more than camera gear.