I should have mentioned, the glass in the viewfinder was my first thought. I cleaned that, no change.
Recently noticed a dot in the viewfinder of my D7000. Same spot with different lenses, and doesn't show up in photos. If it was on the sensor, wouldn't it show in the photos? The focus of the dot doesn't seem to change as I manually focus. Ideas? Thank you.
Thanks everyone. When I was using Kodak 110 cameras I lusted after the SRT101 in the Service Merchandise catalog. I never got one, but my first decent 35mm was a Maxxum 7000. When I found an SRT101 for a few dollars I couldn't resist. I'm happy my 24 year old daughter wants to expose a little film. I'll be ordering a few rolls of Plus X Pan for her.
spphoto wrote:
The battery is only for the meter.
Thank you. I see tons of vintage light meters going for under $10 on eBay, I'll give one a try.
My daughter is interested in using a Minolta SRT101 I have laying around. I've never used it. I understand they used a mercury battery that is no longer available, and there some fixes that may work. Is the battery just for the light meter? Can the camera function without it? Thank you.
I've had my D7K for almost three years. 45,000 clicks in all sorts of conditions. Dusty, minus 25f., covered in burned rubber at the drag strip. Lately it has been acting up. Selector wont select, focus hunts forever, no shutter release. All of these come and go, tried different lenses. I cleaned contact points, no help. I'm wondering if I should send it in for repairs, or buy a new body. New body $829, refurb around $650. No idea on repairs. Anyone had luck on repairs? Thank you for any input.
Car owner: "Why do you want to photograph the bottom of my car?" Me: "Please make sure no one steps on me."
kmohr3 wrote:
I would think the red or green loctite would make it very difficult, (and risky) to remove.
Loctite would be a bad thing. If you insist on a Black Rapid just make sure you keep it tight. I use Loctite every day and I can assure you you don't want to use an impact wrench to remove anything from your camera.
Good stuff, I often try to get a self portrait in a reflection at car shows.
When I first started shooting car shows it took me about a year to realize how boring all my 3/4 shots were. Now I often lay in the grass or hold the camera over my head to change it up a bit.
dooragdragon wrote:
3 possible fixes for tripod mount screws backing out are .
1 clear fingernail polish on threads.
2 blue loctite thread lock ( some difficultly to remove )
3 red loctite thread lock ( extreme difficultly to remove )
4 Green loctite (impossible to remove)
I used a Black Rapid that uses the tripod mount, I didn't like the camera hanging upside down. I now use an Op Tec on my D7000 and 70-200 f2.8. It hangs from the right lug, I like it.
CaptainC wrote:
OK - as long as your work is not up to their standard, charging less is reasonable. Just keep thinking of how the Teamsters view anyone who would come in and do the same job for less.
I'm still an apprentice. I will charge journeyman rates when I can do journeyman work.
I've only had access to the starting line at drag strips for 3 years now. My photos are not as good as the guys who have been doing it for a living for 30 years, therefore I don't feel I can charge the same. And unless I'm crossing a picket line to shoot photos I'm not a scab. I was a Teamster for many years and know what a scab is. I'm not taking away anyone's job.
georgevedwards wrote:
Actually the car is in focus, the blurriness comes from camera movement following a moving drag racer, actually a nice effect that shows speed. My only concerns are the tilted horizon, which might be explainable by the need to show the car in the right orientation, and the rear end of the car almost off the page, which might be fixable a little if you crop off the space in front of the car. I know it is hard to pan the camera and catch a speeding object, but that is what would really make this picture, a little better centering of the car; not necessarily perfect centering, but just a little more on the left at least. Perhaps standing further back or back off the zoom so you have some leeway to crop is an idea for future pictures.
Actually the car is in focus, the blurriness comes... (
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Actually I chose the wrong image for the post. Small thumbnail and I clicked on the wrong one. I take many poor photos at the races, but also get some good ones. The guys interested in hiring me have seen my work and are happy with it. If they hired one of the pro photogs that follow all the races they would spend lots more that what they will pay me, assuming I get the work.
I know this has been discussed before, but I have a unique situation and I'd like some opinions.
I currently take photos for an online magazine. I don't get paid, but they help me get into events and places I could never get into otherwise. I view it as an internship, and it's fun. I was contacted by an organization starting a new drag racing circuit. They need a photographer. Events are typically 10-12 hours a day. Besides shooting their event for their use, I can guarantee them coverage of the event in the magazine, usually 150 photos. Views of this magazine is typically in the six figures every day. That seems like valuable exposure.
So...what to charge? Is it reasonable to have a per day price plus expenses for events out of town? Any input most appreciated.
If I was concerned about if I looked cool I sure as hell wouldn't wear the dumb floppy hat I wear when shooting drag races. I use an Op Tech because it's more comfortable. 1/3 the price of a Black Rapid.