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Apr 29, 2014 13:48:15   #
Erik_H wrote:
I have an old D50 that I keep in my vehicle at all times, along with a tripod and cleaning kit.


Similar solution here. I use a D70 with 50mm f1.8. It's pretty small, very rugged and inexpensive.
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Mar 31, 2014 17:26:34   #
Trout man wrote:
Let's say you have a D7100 and you could only take one lens with you. You might be shooting bee's to butterflies or flying eagles to mountain tops. What would be your one lens. DX or FX? 85mm fixed or 18-300 zoom. Weight not being a factor what would be your all around lens?


Nikon 70-200 VR II f2.8.
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Mar 19, 2014 10:23:59   #
W00F1 wrote:
About 90% of the time I wear black pants and a black shirt. I look at it as my "uniform." Most of the time I blend in with the crowd and still set apart as a person with a specific function at the event and guests often step aside for a moment to let me get my shot. That also gives me the range of motion that I want to have.


This is my standard dress also. I find a jacket and tie overly restrictive to the extent that it interfers with my work.
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Mar 19, 2014 10:08:33   #
WesIam wrote:
I have an old Nikon 80-200mm,lens is very sharp,good in low light. I use it with my D600. Thinking of buying a Nikon 70-200mm. What would you do? Should i look at another lens ins tead? Can't decide. :roll:


I shot with the 70-200 V1 for about 5 years and thousands of images, then I exchanged it for the 80-200, non-AFS version, two touch. It uses the motor in the camera to focus. My camera is a D3s. I have used it for almost two years and compared thousands of pictures from the two lenses. Most of my pictures are shot between 2.8 and 4.0. I can't tell the difference at any aperture. There is a difference in focus speed, but I can say that I have not missed a shot due to that difference. It is still very fast, but not as fast as the 70-200. I would, personally, not spend the money for the new 70-200. Good luck with your decision. Let us know what you decide and how it works out.
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Jan 24, 2014 07:28:28   #
kimmyfaye wrote:
I have done a search and cannot find what I'm looking for. At one time I read on one of these discussion threads a sequence of edits and the number used to edit a raw photograph. (For example I usually sharpen to 25 and will do that right before I crop) I use iPhoto and do limited editing however as we know a raw photo will need some post processing. So what sequence do you use and to what degree (number- not sure of the correct terminology). I'm sure it all depends on the photo, but is there a standard that you do with all your photos. Thank you for your help.
I have done a search and cannot find what I'm look... (show quote)


All of the above folks are exactly right. I start processing RAW files in ACR by setting all of the sliders very carefully on the first picture in a location to make it as good as I am able. Then I make those settings the default settings or numbers. After that there are usually only minor changes that need to be made. The numbers are different for every setting, but by getting it right for one picture location and lighting setup and using those for your default numbers, the rest are pretty easy. Hope that helps. Good luck with your processing.
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Jan 21, 2014 17:32:05   #
Wahawk wrote:
Norton and McAfee are the FIRST things that I remove from ANY computer!!


Amen
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Jan 18, 2014 11:51:17   #
Bloke wrote:
I'm sorry, but so many people are missing the point I was asking. I know all kinds of things will be different, but I am talking about magnification - or should I say *apparent magnification*!

Let me ask it another way... I like to take wildlife photos. The SX50 has a lens which can really reach out and *grab* something. Now, if I want to buy a bigger lens for my T4i, say, a 400mm. If I had a choice between 2 lenses, one of which is built for crop-factor bodies only, and one which would also work with my metaphorical *next* camera body, would those lenses both give the same *apparent* magnification, or *reach* when stuck on my camera?

I *know* they are both 400mm, but that is just a label. Ever since they started using different crop sensors, the label is really meaningless. What I, representing Joe Photo out there is interested in, is how close can these lenses get me to the subject - you know, the charging grizzly!
I'm sorry, but so many people are missing the poin... (show quote)


The answer is, "yes".
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Jan 13, 2014 08:05:51   #
davidrb wrote:
When you sell something you lose proprietary rights. The buyer assumes them and has total control, unless restricted by an agreement of some sort.


Selling a photograph is different from selling a lens. Copyright laws affect selling a photograph when there is no specific agreement between the parties. I'm not an expert in copyright law, perhaps others here are and could comment.
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Jan 11, 2014 09:16:51   #
Cdouthitt wrote:
It's so easy to spend someone else's money. :-)


It helps to keep my GAS syndrome partially in check :-D
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Jan 11, 2014 09:11:23   #
jerryc41 wrote:
I've ordered pictures taken by pros that were displayed on Smugmug. I selected what I wanted, and Smugmug printed and mailed them. The results were excellent and very fast. If you have the prints sent to you, and examine them too closely, you'll find "defects" and want them done over. Perfection is overrated.


Somebody smart, I think it was Henry Ford, said that the quest for perfection has wasted more time than any other endeavor. Just say'n.
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Jan 11, 2014 08:43:53   #
waykee7 wrote:
Years ago I had a photography business, mostly selling fine art prints and doing portraits. I lived in a pretty place, and did environmental portraiture and it was reasonably profitable. I mostly did my accounting in a shoebox.

Now there's the internet, electronic ordering of prints from a lab, accounting programs, etc. So I have a few practical questions.

Say you have a internet business, and people order prints and you order them from a lab in another state. If you have the prints mailed directly to the customer, that saves you postage, a trip to the post office or UPS, but you have no quality control over whether people are receiving an acceptable print. If you have the prints sent to you, it roughly doubles your postage expenses, but, of course, you get to see the prints before you send to the customer. It also slows the process. Any thoughts?

Print your own and mail do your own packaging and mailing.

When I've sent prints to people in the past few years, I've had some trouble tracking orders, verifying that the orders were shipped from the lab, and tracking payments received. Does anyone have any familiarity with accounting programs that are commonly used by photographers? Any practical, commonsense advice on this, especially from someone who has experience maybe running a commercial portrait operation in which tracking a fair volume of orders is an issue? Are there any labs that have in-house accounting services as part of their professional services packages? Any experiences with them?
I get payment in advance, so I don't have to track payment. I use a simple spreadsheet to record income, expenses and depreciation. I use a 5 year term on cameras and lenses.

Does anyone have experience with writing off photography gear as a business expense, or do you have to depreciate the gear on a 3-year or 5 year cycle?

Does anyone have any experience selling high-end fine art greeting cards? I live in a high-tourist area and there is an opportunity for some modest income. Do you usually buy the wire racks to hold the cards? What's the normal percentage for the vendor? Any commonsense tips?

No experience here, sorry.

Thanks for any input!
Wayne Keene (waykee7)
Years ago I had a photography business, mostly sel... (show quote)


Good luck with your venture. Let us all know how it works out.
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Jan 11, 2014 08:26:27   #
Screamin Scott wrote:
Be careful with that one as it might corrupt your card....Better to just format the card after your important shots are downloaded.


Could you tell us where this information comes from? I shoot events, have over a million clicks on my Nikon, delete about 9 out of 10 frames as I shoot and have noticed no CF card corruption. Thanks for your help.
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Jan 11, 2014 08:18:06   #
colag wrote:
I bought the D70 (6.1 MP) when it was introduced quite a few years ago. I have considered getting the D3100 (14.2 MP).

Do you think the picture quality of the D3100 over the D70 would
be worth the purchase?

Frank


I would move up to the D90 to keep the in-camera focus motor, but keep the D70. I use mine regularly for a knock around type camera. It still makes great pictures outside and with today's post processing advances it does ok indoors, too. I recently went to Disney with it and a 50mm f1.8 and a 135mm f2.0 and did not miss anything I wanted to shoot. Of course, if your budget will stretch to a D7000/7100, then that would be even better.
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Jan 11, 2014 08:01:08   #
My walk around lenses are a 50mm f1.8 and a 135 mm f2.0. They are pretty light, very sharp, good in low light and pretty easy to change on the fly with some practice. Just a thought in place of a long zoom lens. I zoom in with post processing, but zooming out I have not mastered yet :-)
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Jan 9, 2014 09:05:05   #
This is a very interesting topic for me right now. I just finished a four day, four thousand picture shoot in JPEG by accident. What a disaster. I have finished pping the first day using the JPEG files and PSE 11. Now I have three days to see if I can do any better converting to RAW first and then pping. It will be interesting to see what the conclusion of this thread is.
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