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Posts for: FilmFanatic
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Nov 1, 2014 02:29:50   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
on 4th viewfinder in ten months
The problem with the viewfinder is a result of the diopter correction lens built in to the viewfinder. When strong sun hits the viewfinder, i.e. when you remove your eye from the viewfinder, it can burn the EVF screen. Apparently it's worse when you have a strong correction dialled in to the diopter adjuster.
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Jul 18, 2013 04:32:54   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
W/R Histograms
P.S. I am not trying to be a prick about it, I am trying to be helpful here
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Jul 18, 2013 04:31:57   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
W/R Histograms
Here is another person talking about it:

"The 18% gray card was popularized by Kodak and was intended for use by the large printing press operators. It gave them a "middle gray" for adjusting their presses. Photographers soon began using the card since gave them a way to verify color balance (in the old days, we had to use colored filters to adjust the color balance when shooting slide film) as well as exposure. Since the card reflects 18% of the light falling on it and since the "average" scene reflects 12 to 13 percent of the light, you can't use an 18% gray card to set exposure directly"


http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/2957840
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Jul 18, 2013 04:30:32   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
W/R Histograms
winterrose wrote:
State your sources


I also used to believe 18% was correct, Henry from B&H set me straight on that.
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Jul 18, 2013 04:27:54   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
W/R Histograms
winterrose wrote:
I stated "unhelpful technical details please allow me some licence in order to keep this as understandable for as many people as possible."

A gray card is a flat object of a neutral gray color that derives from a flat reflectance spectrum. A typical example is the "Kodak R-27" set, which contains cards which have 18% reflectance across the visible spectrum.

Get your facts straight thanks before you put your foot in it again. Regards, Rob.


My facts are perfectly straight. 18% is not correct.

Edit: See this thread if you don't believe meL http://photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=000eWN
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Jul 18, 2013 04:13:01   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
MAMIYA SEKOR DTL 1000
That is almost unbelievable!
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Jul 18, 2013 04:09:55   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
W/R Histograms
Middle grey is actually 13%
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Jul 16, 2013 03:45:11   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
Image size and pixel count
SharpShooter wrote:
Yes, Goofy is right, don't confuse ppi with dpi. The camera is in ppi as is your screen and email. Anything to do with the file side or electronic/digital end is in ppi.
Dpi only comes into play at the mechanical end, or printing.
72dpi is embedded in emails so nobody can print anything but a small thumbnail. For printing most are printed at above 200dpi, for good resolution at the printer and viewing the foto. SS


Not this again... The size in pixels is all that matters, you can send someone a 1dpi image and if it has enough pixels it will print fine.
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Jul 12, 2013 02:59:56   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
Nikon D3s Memory
I'd settle for using a question mark at the end of a sentence. Drives me nuts because I can't work out what is a question and what is a statement
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Jul 10, 2013 05:22:34   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
Mounting "old" Nikkor SLR lens on Nikon DSLR bodies
Wow, what a dickhead!
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Jul 7, 2013 00:02:02   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
What sort of lens do I have here?
CajonPhotog wrote:
Price = $18 ???? It would seem to me that the lens would be empty at such a low price, and they are saying that it is in almost pristine condition. I have to be reading something wrong.


Doesn't surprise me - I got an Adorama 70-210 zoom for my Olympus for $12 in good condition
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Jun 30, 2013 02:06:57   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
I need fast help with shooting indoors photos
55mm lens? Not the 18-55 by any chance? If so, you won't be able to go to 2.8 with that lens
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Jun 28, 2013 20:08:18   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
PhotoShop Elements 6
ardcat wrote:
If you have 4 or 5 or more images open in Elements 9 and just working on one in particular, then decide to print that one it prints the one that is selected in the bin. NOT EVEN CLOSE TO THE ONE you necessarily want. You shouldn't have to select it in the bin. You have already selected in the main window, working it duh.....
Stupid!!!

Also working on a psd file, then flatten the layers. Then save it to a jpg and it doesn't change the file extension. So it still shows up as a psd file that has been flattened. Or it will not let you save those to the same file, as it recognizes both of them as psd's and you possibly run into the situation that it saves the one that has been flattened, but still shows as a psd. Then if i want to work on it some more i can't because the STUPID file is flattened.

There other things too, but not going to spend time fu----- with that now!!
If you have 4 or 5 or more images open in Elements... (show quote)


How are you 'saving it to a jpg'? I tested my ver11 and if you use 'save as' and change file type to jpg it certainly changes the extension.

The print issue I suspect is also user error
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Jun 28, 2013 19:37:20   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
PhotoShop Elements 6
Exactly what 'stupid changes' have they made you do not like?
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Jun 25, 2013 17:43:42   #
(Main Photography Discussion)
DX Coded Film
CHG_CANON wrote:
Darkroom317 - is there a good website where recommendations by film type / ISO are providing the recommended downratings? I've been using Fuji Pro400H and went looking for other's experiences and the suggestions were to adjust to ISO 320 or even 200. That took about a day's worth of research and I wonder if this type of inside knowledge / experience is aggregated someplace by people still working with film. thanks.


You can rate film slower if you want better shadow detail or in the case of Ektar if you want it to look good at all. Black and white is different though, but with color neg I often rate slower.
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