Hey, hey, hey! Don't be mean. I did that when I got my Fuji! It does go in opposite of my Nikons! Or maybe I had the camera backwards when putting it in. Oh, well!
I wasn't being mean. I's just giving Jerry an opportunity to fess up. I figure everybody from NY needs to fess up about something. They just need an opportunity.
What'd you do Jerry, turn the card over and stick it in right?
You may want to check that out as I believe that on some mirrorless cameras that there is in the menu an option for calibration. Can't remember where I read that but it surprised me.
This might be where you read that: https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-584870-1.html
I' not sure which discussion you are referring to,... (
I advised several people not to get the 60d because it couldn't be microadjusted and had to be sent into the factory and you berated me for a few days because of my comments. Remember now?
Absolutely agree. It is all about manufacturing tolerances. I've been saying that for years, but few people want to listen.
For those that say 100% of their lenses are always spot-on I would suggest they may be getting very good results from their lenses as is, but probably don't realize they could be getting better results from some of them. I know I thought that way for a long time years ago until I started calibrating my lenses and saw the thin veil lifted from many of my images
Very interesting! Remember our discussion back when about the 60d not being able to be calibrated and having to go to the factory? My, my, how things do change.
I won't try to answer your question as I now use the latest version of ON1, which I prefer to the Adobe products. However - I have been wanting for some time to make a general statement relative to some of the responses seen to questions asked on the "Hog".
Why are occasional responses totally irrelevant to the facts given and questions asked, and in some cases indicating that the question never was read - or at the very least, understood?????
Loren - Baguio City
That's pretty much self-explanatory and it looks to me like your question holds the answer all but the part about lonely people needing attention or a feeling of participation. It doesn't matter if their comments are relevant or not, they're simply exercising their right to speak.
Just saw a review about MC-ll and Canon lenses, on the a6300 with high speed shutter function it will freeze the camera causing it to re-boot for up to a minute and loose settings for that shot.
Have NOT had that issue with my a6000 or a6500.
Bike guy wrote:
I have the Fotodiox pro and itvis great. Half the price of the MC11. I bought for use on my Sony 6000 and now use it on both cameras.
I did get the Canon EF 1.8 and it works well on the A7mk2. It will autofocus at some apertures, but not all of them. Too much hunting and runs the battery down. So I just find it easier to MF.
I'll check the Tamrons
Not sure why you'd say the Fotodiox "is great" and go on to talk about it not focusing at some apertures but I'd bet if you'd go on and get the mc-11 you'd get focus at the other apertures but of course you're ok with manual focus, so... nevermind.
I see you use the Fotodiox Pro adapter. How do you like it? I have thought about getting one for my a6300 to use my Canon lenses but have read pro and con. Can not make up my mind from the reviews.
I would suggest the Sigma mc-11 adapter. I've tried a couple of other adapters and the Sigma blows them away with EF lenses. From those who have used both, the mc-11 beats Metabones. It autofocuses my EF lens almost, if not as fast as my Canon bodies. The major drawback is that EF lenses do not autofocus when shooting video.
I have a set of Canon and a set of Kenko. They are equally functional and appear to have been made by the same manufacturer. I would challenge anyone to pick which is which with the name covered. That said, unless you know for sure you're going to use tubes, you might want to consider an el cheapo set from ebay, $10+/- if you have a lens with an aperture ring.
Many people eventually resort to manual focus for macro so the effective differences are the absence of electrical connections and the cheaper mounts are plastic and won't tolerate the weight of unsupported heavy lens or other careless use very long but will function fine as long as you can experiment a little to work out your exposure - shoot 'n chimp or work off of the histogram. You might also entertain the idea of buying a cheap bellows which can offer much more flexibility than tubes and can be had inexpensively on ebay, $35 +/- to experiment with.
You can pay a lot more for a more precision bellows. I say these things because I recall your comments from the thread you posted yesterday.
Incidentally, I'm 82, degenerative spinal problems, old sports injuries, bad knees, bad shoulders, and without certain crutches like Arsenal my cameras would be gone. "Where there's a will, there's a way."
Being "of age" I jokingly call for a for... (
Utilizing what I suggested a person can put the camera on a small tripod, tie a string around it and lower it into position without bending over and go sit in the shade of a nearby tree up to 100 ft. away and control the camera on a cell phone without all the problems you're talking about.
Someone told me about "Arsenal" which supposedly helps with setting your camera for every shot including HDR photography and remotely triggers from your camera. I like doing my own manual settings, but for business, I shoot Real Estate photography and mostly HDR images, and anything that speeds up my time on location would be great. Any opinions
Arsenal is a useful tool coming at us incrementally as it is maturing as do many kickstarter projects, not yet fully developed due to the complexities of covering all the different cameras being supported. Contrary to comments you find here, mostly by people who would still chop wood with an axe and hunt with a bow and arrow or flintlock musket, Arsenal has many very useful features that will facilitate various desireable shooting modes most cameras do not now offer and that many may never offer.
I have multiple units and while I have yet to take them into the field extensively, I have spent a lot of time indoors testing their functionality with different cameras and can tell you that when I do take them into the field they will be extremely useful. I have only found one feature for one of my cameras that is still developing and expect that to be ready very soon much to my pleasure. It's a very interesting instrument.
Most of the criticism you find on the 'net was posted when it was first being tested and many of the features were in beta mode. Most of that is in the past and no longer applies. There is some work to be done with the error trapping aspects of the software which I am sure will come together soon. In the meantime, if you get one, don't interrupt it when it's doing something you've told it to do. If you do interrupt it, it may hang up or hang your camera up. If it does, turn it off, turn off your camera, eject the camera battery for a few seconds and then boot it all back up and it'll be ready to go again. I've put mine under a good deal of stress to test the reaction and it hasn't done any damage or refused to function accurately on reboot.
As is suggested a person should learn "the triangle" and their camera and they won't need Arsenal. The day will never arrive that I will NEED Arsenal but the day has already passed when I WANT Arsenal. Each to his own vices. I don't know what is wrong with those people who are so vehemently against someone else having the photographic equipment they choose to have but I'd just ignore them and suit yourself. Either way it's not a life sentence. You can always sell it if you get it and find that you agree with the axe choppers.
Some time ago when I was reading about the Nikon D700, I remember reading an article that mentioned the camera having "pre-recorded scenes and settings" which P mode used to compare the viewed scene with a stored scene and thus set the exposure for what it "knew" to be appropriate. I believe that method is still used to this day on their latest models. Others may have something similar.
Nikon first put that feature in the FA film camera in the early 1980s. I bought one and still have it. Since you haven't reached an appropriate place in life where you've developed age related issues and begin looking for ways to be able to perpetuate your photographic urges, fast forward a couple of days and have a look at the thread you find at https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-585409-1.html
and since I've been unable to express who can benefit from such things as Arsenal maybe you and speters will have the lights turn on for you.
Roy Radlauer wrote:
Hi, I am new to this web site, have been using a Nikon D750 for some time now, looking to simplify my life! I was recently introduced to the Sony RX10 IV would like to get the opinion of the forum on this camera. Thanks, in advance, for any help.
You would be a rare exception if you don't love a Sony RX10 IV.