Residual inventory? Sigma is still producing Foveon sensor cameras. And that's my point: it's not in the dustbin quite yet. Nevertheless, we're taking this thread in a direction the OP probably never intended or even wanted, and I suppose I caused that. The last word is yours if you want it, USER ID.

I don't know about the other two you mentioned, but Sigma's Foveon sensor is hardly in the Dustbin of History. Nor would I characterize it as a "flash in the pan." The Foveon sensor cameras require patience to be sure (I know because I own two, and they can be frustrating) but if you are willing to put up with their quirks they are capable of stunning imagery. Also there is a robust, if relatively small, community of users. And also Sigma still sells Foveon sensor cameras.

Consider a Holga 120. Cheap (about $40-50 new, less if bought used), all plastic and capable of interesting images. You'll have vignetting in the corners and "soft" images and maybe even a light leak. But they're a lot of fun and many a good picture has been made by Holgas.

I was going to ask if you knew about Glazer's. I've never been to Kenmore Camera but I lived in South Lake Union area for a while and Glazer's was a regular stop. Big store,...friendly staff. Well-stocked with film and previously-owned cameras if you're inclined that way. It might be worth stopping in at least once to compare it with Kenmore.

I realize your max price is $1000 but if you can swing the extra dollars perhaps you'd consider buying new from B&H. They're selling the 5DSR at $1499.00. (I recently looked at used ones at KEH and MPB but the cost savings for a used one from them wasn't worth it to me so I bought new from B&H.) However, if you can find one under $1k with low shutter count you're likely getting a very good deal. Good luck with your search.

The photographer's name in Frank Thorpe. I believe he works for NBC. (You can see his work on Instagram.) His work is beautiful. By the way there is at least one other photographer there shooting film. I don't know his name but it looks like he's shooting with a Mamiya 7. You can see him changing rolls frequently.

Hi. If the pending sale falls through I will buy it.

Thank you.

Someone recommended The Darkroom. I can vouch for them them. They are good people and they take their work seriously. However, I'm not sure if they do very old film. You may wish to contact them. They are in San Clemente California. On the other hand, there is a processing lab I've heard of that specializes in old film. A link to their website is below. It is certainly a gamble but If I were you I would definitely send a roll or two for developing just to see what's there. You may discover a family treasure, who knows. Good luck.

http://www.filmrescue.com/old-still-film-developing/

Some Costco stores still develop film.

There are 5 or so Costcos within easy driving distance of me (North Orange County California). Three still develop film (as of about a month ago).

One of the 5 was developing film until their machine broke. They removed it. One is a new store, and they never installed a film developing machine.

However, since Costco seems to not be willing to fix machines that break (at least, not in every store), I call ahead to be sure the store I plan to visit still develops.

By the way, they do not do B&W (unless it is C41 type) and I think they only do 35mm. Also, they will print from negs and/or scan the images onto a CD. Good luck.

I use Rodinal. (R09 One Shot its now called. I get it from Freestyle.) Anyway, if I was you I'd use Rodinal and do a "stand" or "semi-stand" development process. Rodinal is the only developer I've ever used. Perhaps your HC110 is good for stand developing too, I don't know.

The reason I would use a stand process is because this way I wouldn't have to worry about an exact development time for the film. Depending on the dilution strength I'd let the film stand in the developer at least an hour. (Perhaps with an agitation half-way through--hence semi-stand.) Perhaps I'd go an hour and a half or even two. The film would develop until the developer is exhausted and I think this might get you as much out of the film as is possible.

By the way, for an hour stand I dilute at 1+100. I've never done a higher dilution but I know people do. Nevertheless, for this old film I'd dilute 1+100 and probably let it stand 1.5 hours.

Good luck.

I don't harass Bigfeet.

Here's one. I saw it outside the Huntington Beach Public Library one night at closing time. You might think this is far-fetched, but the library is located on the grounds of a large park, which is where I assume he or she lives. Good thing I had my F1 on me and loaded with film.