Spring for some gaffer tape unless you want electrical (or duct) tape goo all over your cameras, lights, and tripod.

What post processing allows polarization to be added?

Both printer always provided identical prints. It is not a printer problem.
The dark print problem was with my Dell Desktop, and I continued to print on my R1800 from the Acer laptop for over a year.
The problem showed up when using the laptop after I installed the R800 driver and paper profiles.
Since I've seen this problem twice, someone else must have experienced it too. I'm hoping they will tell me how they fixed it.

This has nothing to do with monitor brightness. It has been printing great for a year on the other printer. I only added the R800 driver and paper profiles. I'm still hoping to find someone who has experienced this problem and fixed it.

My monitor isn't calibrated and I've been happy with my prints for years. And I don't use Lightroom.

I have two Windows 7 computers with Photoshop CS5 installed. One is a Dell desktop and one an Acer laptop. I have an Epson stylus photo R800 and an Epson stylus photo R1800. I print all my photos from PSD files. I use only Epson paper, glossy or luster. I set the printer color management off, and let Photoshop control color management. I've been using the R1800 for several years and I loved the prints. The R800 sat idle.
I don't remember exactly what I did to cause the problem with my Dell, but my prints all came out very dark, and red. I read that allowing both Photoshop and the printer to control color management yields this result. I couldn't easily resolve the problem, so I just printed from the Acer laptop for the last year or more.
After thousands of prints, the R1800 finally quit. I had a backlog of 8 x 10s to print so I decided to use the R800. After a lot of nozzle cleaning cycles, I was ready to try it. My Acer laptop didn't have the driver installed for an R800, so I downloaded it from the Epson site, along with paper profiles for glossy and luster. Prints from the Acer are now dark and red like the ones from the Dell.
I hope someone has experienced this problem, and will describe how they resolved it.
Thank you
Jim

I started with a Spotmatic in '69. My 35mm cameras all have a microprism or a split-image screen. I use a Katz Eye screen in my Pentax K20D. It was quick and easy to install, and works great. I wouldn't be without it. I use it in manual focus and then recompose. It also helps confirm that auto-focus has the right spot. Mine is usable past 200mm at f5.6 if I'm careful to get my eye in the right spot where the split-images are both brightest.

If you have any more aunts, just keep trying till you get it right.

I get DNG and JPG files from the camera. I only use the jpg's for preview. I always save PSD files and always print from PSD files. I only convert to JPG to upload or email.
BTW: Many compression schemes are not lossy.

Using a wide angle lens is helpful. If you're too far from the plane, people don't notice you and they walk into the picture. Also, I like the dramatic look of wide angle aircraft pictures. I haven't been to an airshow with digital gear, but I always used a 28mm lens on my 35mm camera.

Napabob,
I changed the screen in my Pentax K 20D to a Katz Eye because I wanted a focusing aid like all my old 35mm cameras had. I got one with both a split image and a microprism. I just love it and wouldn't be without it. Changing it myself was easy and fast - five minutes The tool and instructions were included.
Jim

The lens I use the most is the 12 -24mm f4 - second most used is a 50mm f 1.4.
good luck
Jim

Pete,
I have a Katz Eye on my Pentax K20D and I just love it. I don't think you need to send it away. I changed mine in about 5 minutes and it was easy. They include a tweezer-like tool, and they even have a video.
Jim

My first Pentax camera was a Spotmatic in 1969. When that was destroyed in a fire, I replaced it with Pentax. When I made the move to digital, I chose Pentax again and couldn't be happier. I now have a K-10D and a K-20D. I wouldn't trade them for a camera without shake reduction built in.

Why remember that the earth and moon are moving through space if it it is not apparent here on earth?
Also shouldn't the earth rotation be 24,000 miles per day instead of mph?