One other thing not mentioned here - The Olympus TG-6 has 2 extra lenses that attach directly to the camera. One is a fisheye, the other a telephoto. Also - you can get an attachment that clamps over the lens and uses the built in flash to give a ring light to the camera. And - there is an attachment that will allow it to fit various filters to the camera. There is a lot of flexibility with this camera.

I have been using an Olympus TG-5 for a few years. Great camera in the water or on land. Get a floating camera strap to attach to the camera. I also use a tether so I can let go of the camera to swim. One thing I have learned while snorkeling in shallow water. Or with a lot of people in the same area. There will be a lot of sand in the water and the pictures will not come out all that clear ( turbidity ) Best pictures will be in deeper water with fewer swimmers nearby. Also I put a sports finder on the camera - the screen on the camera is sometimes difficult to see in the water.

I cleaned up a few N90 and N90s backs. Alcohol removed all the sticky coating and left a shiny black back. I purchased some Krylon textured black spray paint. I masked the inside and painted the outside. Here are the results of my work.

I replaced the HD with an SSD in my laptop. It now runs much faster. How are you determining the usage ( not space, but the wearing out of the SSD ) Is there an app somewhere?

I bought a used D750 a few years ago on ebay. Great camera and it uses all my non motor Nikon lenses for auto focus.

I just repaired an old Minolta A5 ( from the 1960s ) The covering was like new with a very little cleaning.

I have a few of these. They are not for climbing, but they are very versatile. Might be worth a look.
here is their web site

https://myheroclip.com/

Keep in mind - it seems that most batteries are from China. How much can you really trust the capacity.

Sort of related - I have a camera case for a Minolta Rangefinder camera. It is thick brown leather, much like shoe leather. There are a number of scuffs and scratches on the leather. First a coat of Lexol leather conditioner. Let it dry for a few days. Then some brown shoe polish ( wax ) and a quick buffing....

Almost like new....

I have a mix of 'brand' batteries and 3rd party batteries. No real problems with either. Batteries will wear out over time and it seems that they all performed well. I watch for swelling and remove them once that starts. I had one Nikon battery swell in the camera. Took a bit of work to get it out.

' I can think of few things worse than Armorall (sp?) to clean a camera! And automotive wax? Really? '

The ArmorAll seems to restore the plastic and the automotive wax protects the finish. I could have just stopped after the cleaning with alcohol. I should point out - the camera is no longer used and is basically a shelf camera. One of the cameras had a back that most of the coating had worn off, leaving a rough finish and some scratches. Some wet/or dry sandpaper starting a 600 and ending at 3000. then some white rubbing compound on a buffing machine, The end result is a really nice back ( this is the plain back )

I have used 'water transfer sheets' in the past. They only work if there is no white in the image. Most inkjet printers do not have white as they use the white paper and do not print in those areas. The images on the back of the camera are stamped on.

A lot of camera bags use 'closed cell foam' I have not seen this type break down. I bought a sheet of this ( 1/4 inch thick ) to use in a project. I have the left over here in Florida and it seems like new, even after 10 years .

You brought up a bad memory - Some of the foam used in the past breaks down and just crumbles.

I recently acquired a Nikon N90s camera. The back ( MF-25 ) was very sticky as was most of the camera. The camera works fine and I decided to see if I could restore the finish on it.
Materials used - alcohol- above 90%, paper towels, ArmorAll, automotive car wax, micro fiber cloth.

It is fairly simple process. Use the alcohol to remove the sticky coating on the back, lots of rubbing and changing the paper towel often. Then clean the rest of the camera with alcohol to remove the migrated coating from the rest of the camera.

Once that is done, I sprayed some ArmorAll on a paper towel and wiped down the entire camera. Remove any residue with a clean cloth.

Now the camera is nice and clean and no longer sticky.

The final step I used is to put a coat of automotive wax on the camera. Apply the wax, let it sit for a few minutes, then polish the camera with a clean cloth.

Some cautions:
don't get and cleaners on any lens, it you have one attached. With any liquid, spray on a cloth or paper towel,
DO NOT SPRAY DIRECTLY ON THE CAMERA.

The N90s had some printed information on the back. This was removed as part of the cleaning process. I have attached some images showing what they looked like. I have no way of restoring this information, They are white and even if my printer actually printed white, I would have no way of getting that back on the camera.

This whole process took less that an hour and I now have a like new camera.