Worth a watch as related to the outcome of condensation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f6wbHDZVULE
I'm a former Technical director and designer so I looked at this problem from a different perspective...getting rid of the moisture in the air. I found A small, inexpensive reusable silica gel device that will work year round and is a cheep insurance policy to storing your gear. I use a plastic storage box even for transport of my gear. Gun people love this as a side note. This will ensure inside of gear will dry as well (like car inside condensation on a windshield). The indicator will keep you informed and tell you when to change. It is very capable at a 500 cf rating. Have two on hand so you can simply dry and swap units. I hope it may be of value:) https://www.amazon.com/HOMY-Renewable-Dehumidifier-Dehumidifiers-Environmentally/dp/B0188Z71SW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481123570&sr=8-2&keywords=Moisture+Absorber+Device
It happens with Canon also. I micro adjust all of my glass for manufacturing tolerances. I have a 50mm 1.2L that could not be adjusted on my mkiii. -10 was not enough and that was that. Honestly I was about to give up and sell it thinking it was a soft lens. Low and behold it is tack tack sharp and absolutely perfect on the new mk4 with an adjustment of -7. That tells me both parts are within manufactures tolerances but together they do not work. The adjustment is +or- 10 but each part must be +or- 5. It is possible to to match up two parts that put the adjustment out of range. Both work together as a sum.
Again look into micro adjustment on camera if it has it.... And if you can... go to a photo store or a friend and try the lens on their body of the same mount. Just another thought. 😀
Use Photoshop with masks and don't combine everything. Paint out unwanted area's and reveal things you want to show from layers. I think you should look photo shop tutorials up on youtube...everything combined is more of an HDR thing that works good with focused sharp images that don't move...
Lightroom has an automatic feature for combining up to 4 exposures in Raw and Photoshop you would stack Raw images. Editing in ether program is normally done in Raw for the best image quality. Bracketing for any reason can be controlled with masking in Photoshop when combining Raw images unless you go for a generated HDR effect in a program like Lightroom. Photoshop will give you endless possibilities with Raw images.
If the af is working do you have any range in the micro adjustment? You did not say if you set up the lens when you got it. Has it changed from the initial adjustment? The change or lack of adjustment may help with good repair or replacement data, especially for you after the replacement or return.
I had a several from the 80's and purchased adapters... After giving it a go I found them nothing more than a novelty at best...using them wide open with the inability to control dof effectively was a let down. Aperture vignetting anything north of wide open on a Vivitar 80-200 telephoto and Tamron 24-70 were limitations I did not like. You need time and good eyes if you plan on using the old lenses to get a sharp image. Finding inexpensive AF kit lenses on Craigs list might be a better choice lol...
Chttp://www.bbb.org/new-york-city/business-reviews/photographic-equipment-and-supplies-retail/42nd-street-photo-in-new-york-ny-4261/complaints/ Check out the BBB reviews 42nd...
I Know this is not an exact reply but worth adding. I would not and this is why...The problem with Grey items from a particular store for me was fraud. I got burned $12500.00 last spring by 42nd. It took me 7 months and a lot of grief to get the credit card to return my money. The whole experience was exactly as described by many on line as a bait and switch with lies and rudeness. After 7 months of paperwork and negotiating I finally succeed and finally got my money back. What they do best is a bait and switch or never actually ship your item. You will can wait for eternity and in many cases never receive an item. My credit card company told me again and again 42nd claimed that the item was shipped and nothing could be done. There were so many excuses they used for months and even came up with a fictitious person and address it was shipped to 5 states away. Finally after 7 months of total grief the credit card company realized there was enough to prove fraud I got the refund. Never again!
Welcome!...cropping on a good photo is sometimes better than using a light robbing TC... but it depends on the lens and camera. I personally would never use one and can say for Canon it works better without one. There are lens reviews that prove the point. I respect bird photographers more than I am able to say here and it really looks like you are getting some great advise. Best of luck getting those first shots!
Purchase an external Flash (cheep third party or your camera brand on Amazon ect...) and something like the Gary Fong "light sphere diffuser" (great product!) to soften the light. The flash set to ETTL - full auto mode (that will be the automatic default). You will immediately get great photos in any of the camera modes you choose. The flash will compensate for most lighting situation. Fear not... and the bonus will be no learning curve needed!
A twist on this for you can be to put the camera in manual mode/ AUTO- ISO and control shutter and aperture as needed. If you need a controlled shutter speed of 200 to avoid camera shake with a 200mm lens and any range of DOF, shallow or deep for effect... the difference is compensated with ISO. If there is adequate light and you want to avoid action blur this works perfectly and if the camera handles high ISO in low light its even better. I use this over mode priorities most of the time.
Things will happen in stages. you are far better off spending your time studying the mechanics of photography and post editing. As you practice the art of photography with Family, nature, landscapes, travel and events you can offer images to people that have merit and value and can build a resume. The one thing I agree with here on the forum is going to a shelter and capturing images for a good cause. Confidently picking up the camera as a tool and understanding the functions of light, dof, composure and post editing out weigh trying to fly the plane untrained. There are so many youtube and on line educational tutorials available that can give you the insight needed to step up the game. Most important is being able to confidently set up, shoot, and offer something of value. Never beg to get noticed!
While you are at it. If you are considering moving up consider entry level full frame over crop sensor. Depends on what you need it for but overall it will expand your horizon and let you grow longer term if you also are looking at upgrading glass. I know a few people who went several steps to get to full frame and better glass and spent three times more than needed getting to the goal. Just another thought.