Actually she poses for me. A person came up and asked how I was able to get her to stay still and pose for a sequence of photos. She is two and a half years old, and she just sits and moves her her under direction. The easiest model I've ever had, and she works for food.... 😃

I think if you had clicked the "Store Original" when you uploaded the photo, the download would have been clear. UHH shrinks your image and you lose a lot of clarity. Still very nice photo!

Our dog Frankie posing on the shore of Higgins Lake, Michigan. She isn't really 'old', but the black and white seems to impart an older look to me.

(Download)

I use MozillaThunderbird as my mail program in Windows 10. When I want to send multiple photos, I hold the CTRL key while choosing the files with my mouse. When I have all of the photos selected, I right click on one of them, and choose SEND TO.

I choose MAIL RECIPIENT.

A sub menu called ATTACH FILES MENU

I choose the file size, usually 1024x768, and it starts my mail program up, I enter who it's going to and hit send.

I am thinking all of this, up until Thunderbird starts up is Windows functions.

I just now chose three JPG files I had taken a couple weeks ago, totalling 62.7MB. After choosing to send the three pictures as 1024x768, the total file size I ended up sending was 320k.

You're correct, you need the lens.

AF-P DX NIKKOR 18–55mm f/3.5–5.6G VR and AF-P DX NIKKOR 18–55mm f/3.5–5.6G lenses are now supported. Vibration reduction can be enabled or disabled using the new Optical VR option in the photo SHOOTING MENU, which is displayed when an AF-P DX NIKKOR 18–55mm f/3.5–5.6G VR lens is attached.

Then also make sure you only copy the .BIN file to the main directory on your card.

I did my update a week ago, and all went good. Pretty sure I put the file in the main directory.

Here's a link to the directions, and the download file. Make sure you aren't putting the file in a directory, (It sounds like you may be moving the entire folder from your computer to the card), and that the card you are using has been formatted IN THE CAMERA.


http://downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/en/download/fw/235.html

Create a folder on the computer hard disk and name it as desired.
Download F-D5500-V102W.exe to the folder created in Step 1.
Run F-D5500-V102W.exe to extract the following file to a folder named “D5500Update”:
• D5500_0102.bin (the camera firmware)
Using a card slot or card reader, copy “D5500_0102.bin” to a memory card that has been formatted in the camera.
Insert the memory card into the camera memory card slot and turn the camera on.
Select Firmware version in the SETUP MENU and follow the on-screen instructions to complete the firmware update.
Once the update is complete, turn the camera off and remove the memory card.
Confirm that the firmware has been updated to the new version.

try https://www.7pondsphotoexpo2017.com/

I'm not a professional, as can be seen by some of my photos. I generally shoot a combination RAW-JPG-LARGE-FINE, but when I am going to be shooting a lot of movement at high shutter speed, and continuous release (H), I shoot in JPG-LARGE-Fine mode. If I want to start blasting shots of my dog running, I don't have to worry about missing part of her sequence while the camera pauses to write to the SD card (I have the Nikon D5500). With a high shutter speed, I can roll off 80-100 shots in jpg without missing a beat. in RAW-JPG FINE I'm lucky to get eight shots off before it starts pausing to catch up writing to the card (Sandisk Extreme Pro 64GB).

I was recently made aware of a menu command in Elements 15 that allows me to open a JPG in Camera RAW format. (FILE - OPEN IN CAMERA RAW), that allows me to treat the jpg as a raw image (yes, even iphone images).

For fast moving sports, and high shutter speed, I personally prefer JPG-LARGE-FINE.

In Windows, right click on the unopened photo, choose properties, then choose Details.

Page 136 of your manual:

MENU - SETUP MENU - LCD BRIGHTNESS

Nikon D5500 : MENU - SETUP MENU - MONITOR BRIGHTNESS

At the higher shutter speeds you are shooting, the viewfinder being shielded shouldn't gave anything to do with it. Your last photo tourn out well, though your depth of field put the further player in focus, and the closer one slightly out of focus (that's the f2.8 narrowing your depth of field). That photo was shot at f2.8, but your shutter speed was 1/800th of a sec, and your ISO was set at 100, which normalized your shot, and didn't wash everything out, in comparison to the others being shot at f2.8, ISO 400, and 1/640the sec.

So by speeding the shutter speed up, and slowing your ISO down, you had a pretty nice shot. If for instance on your first photo, you had slowed the ISO to 100, instead of the 400 it was set at, left your shutter speed at 640, and closed the aperture down to a 5.6~8 you may have been good to go. Figure at f8, both of the targeted players should have been in focus.