Hello - I'm from the UK and new to this site. I really enjoy reading the topics. I'm not an expert photographer and tend to leave my camera on AF, although I'm trying to learn how to use it on Manual. Got a Nikon Coolpix 520 - this is very useful for quick shots and the zoom is great. Only disadvantage is it takes about 190 shots per charge. I recently was given as a present a Nikon D-3300 which I love and have just purchased a Nikkor Lens 18.300 VR F6.5 which will be main lens as I do a bit of travel photography. I keep reading about lens hood and filters. Is a lens hood really necessary? With regards to filters, I only need one to protect the lens from dust, scratches etc.
On another note, I'm going to Costa Rica in December. I know it is extremely humid. Any tips for protecting my camera from the humidity - am planning to take both.
Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Thank you.

John, when the software for your scanner is installed, you will have a choice of using a template or putting your negatives directly on the glass place, using the "floppy frame" to tell the computer what area to scan. This is a necessary step, as the scanner has two lenses: it uses one for negatives in their holders, the other one for negatives on the plate.

As to the resolution to use: you need to do some math. I generally scan so that my final image is at 300ppi. If I want to print a photo that is 8x10inches, I want the pixel dimensions to be 2400x3000.
For a 35mm negative, which is about 1.4 inches on the long side, take the long dimension, which is 3000 pixels, divide by 1.4 = 2142.... You don't need to be that exact, but for 35 mm negatives I set the scanner resolution at 2100 or 2400 (the smaller if it's a very good negative, not needing a lot of "fixing", the larger if I need to fix a lot of dust, scratches, etc. so I have a few more pixels to work with).
There also are settings to take care of dust, or you can do some colour correction, etc. while you're scanning.
One final thing: Negatives and photos are calling to dust in the air: "come live with me!!!"
For convenience sake, I have two antistatic cloths right with the scanner. One I use to wipe off the inside of the lid and the glass plate before each and every scan, the other one I use to gently wipe of the negatives on both sides. For dusting slides, because of the card or plastic frame they're in, I turn away from the scanner and use a bulb blower to remove as much dust as possible.
Be patient, not only for doing all this, but also for waiting the scanner to do its work! "Slow as molasses in February" kind of describes it for high resolution, but the effort is worth it in the end!

Unfortunately the V700 has now been discontinued, I don't know what I'd replace mine with if it ever broke.
Esther

This will no doubt be a very elementary subject for most of you, but I'm just learning and need a little help with details. I'll be asking a lot of questions in the future so please bear with me if you don't mind.
How is the numbering, used to identify a sensor's size, interpreted? For example: 1/2.3" (6.17 x 4.55 mm), 2/3" (8.80 x 6.60 mm), 1" (12.80 x 9.60 mm) etc. etc. I can see that the measurements in brackets, in millimeters, is the actual length by width size of the sensor. But how do you read, and interpret, 1/2.3", 2/3", 1" etc., and how do those numbers equate to anything?
Also, it would appear that the bigger the sensor, the better the photo. So, based on that premise, would that be a major factor to consider when purchasing a camera? If you purchase a camera that is going to max out your camera budget, should you opt for the one with the biggest sensor? And are there combinations of features, that you can apply to a camera, that would compensate for a lack of sensor size, and even create a camera that would produce higher quality photos, using a smaller sensor?

Any details would help.......Thanks.....Dave

Paste this- A6300 (& A6000) My set up -into search above and you will find a previous post of mine.
I have the A6300 and have now used the memories as follows

Memory 1 Shutter Priority,
Drive Mode - Contin. Shoot Low
Focus Mode - AF-A
Focus Area - Flexable Spot

Memory Shutter Priority,
Drive Mode - Contin. Shoot High
Focus Mode - AF-C
Focus Area - Wide
No time to explain why at the moment but if anyone would like to know, post and I will get back later today.

Not to belabor the point but I've shot for decades without a hood but with good quality lenses. Here is what Ken Rockwell has to say about hoods:

"I've never unwrapped mine. Hoods are an obsolete throwback to simpler times.

Flare: There is no problem with flare. Modern lenses have this fixed. If the sun is shining directly on my lens I'll use my hand to shield it. This works better than any hood, and is easier than hauling around the hood. I prefer this over hauling around and attaching a big hood every time I shoot.

For infra-red the hood will help, since lenses aren't free from IR flare.

Water Spray: In the old days we used hoods to protect against rain and sea spray. They work for that.

Physical Damage Hazard: The hood can make it more likely you'll damage your lens. In the old days of manual metal lenses, we worried about marring the paint on the front of the lens barrel. A filter or hood would prevent that. Today the most delicate part of the 18-200mm is the zoom assembly. The front of the lens is only very delicately attached to the rest of the lens. Knock the front of the lens too hard and you can destroy the whole thing. You could crack a zoom cam or pinion which then knocks the lens out of alignment and requires expensive repairs. Having a big hood sticking out only makes it more likely you could knock and damage your zoom."