Thanks for the cautionary info. However, I don't have a clue how to test the flash's trigger voltage. The 20D manual only mentions not to exceed 250 volt flash when the flash unit is connected via the external PC terminal. The 6D manual simply states "do not attach a high voltage flash unit....", whatever that means- 250volts or what? I also checked the flash owner's manual, but the specifications section did not cover any electrical/voltage nomenclature.

Hopefully, someone here will know what the Vivitar's trigger voltage output is. While the test flash did not appear to harm my cameras, I will refrain from additional testing until I find out the answers.

Bill

I find it interesting to hear from those of you who have managed to adapt old equipment to modern cameras. My last post concerned an old tripod, which returned some interesting posts.

So, here's another. I dug into my old camera bag which contains a pair of film Konica slrs. There I found a Vivitar model 5200 Zoom Thyristor (wow! Star Wars). I believe I bought it in the early '80s. For curiosity sake, I put some batteries in it and pushed the test button - it worked. Next, I connected it to the hot shoe on my Canon 20D and 6D. The shutter release flashed the unit in both cases. I have not yet tested it by taking an actual shot. The Konicas had a fixed shutter speed for flash - 1/125 sec. (nice & simple) but my Canons are somewhat different. The 20D flash instructions don't appear to be too complicated, but the 6D is more involved (variables). I'll need to do some brushing up with the owner's manual.

This flash is in mint condition with no surface scratches. The zoom feature has 3 settings: 35mm, 50mm, & 85mm. It also has an iso setting, but at the moment I don't know how far that will take you since I took out the batteries (I can't tell you how many battery operated devices, flashlights, etc that have been ruined by leaking batteries).

I have two questions re the above: 1) anyone have one of these and are using it? 2) Do you think the flash will work reasonably well on my Dslrs? I use the flash feature very little, mostly family and visitor shapshots. So, I'm hesitant to invest in a Canon Speedlite which will get very little use.

Bill

Margo, no, your's is much prettier than mine, which is all black. I thought mine was heavy at 6 lbs.

Here is a quick point n shoot pic of my Tiltall.

May I suggest a Really Right Stuff tripod and ball head? You might get the package for under $3k :roll:

Bill

From discussions here, plus a search on Ebay, suggests more than one manufacturer used the term Tiltall.

This discussion begs the question: How much must one spend on a modern light weight carbon fiber tripod that would equal the sturdiness of the Tiltall? Literature that came with mine does not specify an equipment weight capacity, but it handled my Canon 6D and 70-200 l series with no problem.

Seems most current carbon fiber tripods are priced at $300 and up.

Bill

Mercer,

The only name on mine is Tiltall. The manufacturer's plate says" Tiltall/Manufactured by the Uniphot Corp, Woodside, NJ". However, on the owner's certificate/card it says "Star D Manufacturing Corp, Woodside, NJ". The tripod specs says it weighs 6lb. but with the carrying bag I got a weight of just under 8lbs.

There is no model # on the tripod, but the instruction card shows "Cat. No. Leo1". I don't know if there were other models.

Bill

Kauai is a must go island, my favorite. Why? It's the most tropical (and oldest) of the major islands. It looks like folks imagine a nice tropical island should look like. First of all, it does not exude over development. There are plenty of hotels, but they are not stuck up in the air. The Island has (or had) a building height limited to the height of a palm tree - I presume the height would be a mature tree.

Must see, IMHO: Waimea Canyon, described by Mark Twain as the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific". Simply awesome. If you are into hiking, some great trails leading to unbelievable photo ops.

Second, take a sunset catamaran cruise to the Ne Pali coast. This is where the introductory scene in Jurassic Park was taken. Cruise includes all you can eat and drink (yea, alcohol as well). Scenery of volcanic formations here are just unreal. The only other way to see this coast as a tourist is by helo, which is much more expensive.

With more time, you should venture up to the north part of the Island (Princeville area) and view Honalei Bay and environs. This area supposedly provided inspiration for Peter, Paul, and Mary to compose "Puff the Magic Dragon".

I could go on about Kauai, but the above should provide a good start. Kauai has been the site for scenes of many movies. There is a reason for that - see above. By the way, the island's correct pronunciation is "cow' a ee" not "Ka wa i" as so many do.

Have a great trip and post those super shots when you return.

Bill

tripod I purchased from one of the big camera stores in NYC, circa 1980. This thing is like new with original carrying bag. The product is a Tiltall, made in the U.S. While it's quite solid, the weight, 8 lbs, is unreal compared to today's tripods. Go on a long photo op hike with one of these and you can skip going to the gym that day.

Anyone have/had one of these? If so, do you still use it?

Bill

Jo Anne,

I'll give you my "layman's" opinion while you wait for the techies here to reply.

Read and write transfer data speeds with the Class 10 Sandisks are, generally, faster than the lower class cards. You can purchase Class 10 cards with transfer rates in the 10-20mb/sec rate all the way up to (well, as fast as I have observed) 95 mb/sec. The higher the transfer rate, the more expensive the card. That 95 mb/sec will run close to $100.00. You didn't say what the rate is on the cards you purchased.

Anyway, if, in fact, you never plan on triggering the camera shutter more than once for a given composition, the write transfer speed is not important. However, should you run into a photo op requiring rapid multiple shutter releases (i.e, sports event, bird flying), write speed comes into play. A card with a slower write speed might not be able to keep up with your camera's shutter releases, meaning the camera will have to wait until the card catches up, meaning you would miss some of the "action".

I believe your advice that a class 10 was a necessity probably was in regard to rapid multiple exposures.

Hope this will help while we wait for the techies. But I would not say you wasted your money on the class 10 cards. Who knows what the future brings?

Bill

I read somewhere, probably not here, that the Tamron SP 90mm Macro f/2.8 was/is a very good lens and somewhat more economical (read cheaper) that the equivalent major manufacturer's model.

However, I'm not clear as to significant differences between two versions currently being offered for sale:

The less expensive model's nomenclature is "Tamron SP Macro 90mm f/2.8 DI" and priced below $400.00.

The more expensive model has "VC USD" added and is priced in the mid $700.00 range.

What is the "VC USD" and is it worth twice the price of the other model?

In case anyone is interested, I would be using it with a Canon 20D and a 6D.

Bill

I bought a new monopod about a year ago with intentions on taking it with me on a flight to Arizona in Jan. The monopod's collapsed length is about 22", so it was going to be somewhat iffy to fit in my camera bag. I checked various camera forums to find out what experiences travelers have had re TSA agents.

From all the posts, it appeared it would be a crap shoot as to whether the monopod would be allowed as a carry on (as stated in a post above). And there is no way I was going to check any of my camera equipment. The monopod is a carbon fiber model and a bit more pricey that the $39.95 disposals. Fortunately, in my case, we were invited by friends who live close by during the warmer six months and winter in Arizona for the cold months. They always drive to Arizona, so they took my monopod with them. I packaged the pod in a section of pc pipe with end caps with the intention of mailing it home at the end of our stay. Then I started thinking "will the Postal Service be receptive to shipping an item that looks like a pipe bomb." I decided to let our friends bring it back with them in the spring.

My apologies for making my post a bit long.

Bill

I have been using PSE since vs 3. But I, too, don't jump at buying every vs. Adobe issues a new vs just about once a year. So, I created my own rule: I buy every other vs. I'm on the "odd" cycle with vs11, so I'll most likely get vs13. An exception would be if reports indicate the next version (even numbered vs in my case) has significantly improved/many new features. So far, that has not happened.

This is my way of saving a few bucks.

Bill

This discussion on darkroom vs digital editing reminded me of a device categorized as "a dark room in a box" that I purchased and used briefly in the early 1980s. My memory may be off, but I think it was made by Vivitar. I was so excited to develop my first print - an 8X10 color pic of one of my prized possessions, a 1947 Wurlitzer jukebox. By sheer luck, my first (and only) effort was successful. But I never developed a serious interest in continuing with this method (too much hassle for my liking), as I did not like the smell of the chemicals, plus there was chemical storage and eventually chemical disposal. If memory serves me, the chemicals had a shelf life.

When digital imaging era arrived, I never looked back.

One curiosity question: is there any aspect of traditional dark room image development that is superior to digital image processing? By the way, I thought Adobe's Lightroom naming was clever. It could have been a boring "Digital Darkroom Elements".

Bill