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Jun 12, 2021 09:58:05   #
Did you lose the full resolution version of this sunset pic? Nice pic but you apparently resized it to fit some file size parameter.

Original picture, full resolution?

Thanks, Alan

BTW: there are ways of reducing file size w/o losing apparent quality
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Jun 11, 2021 22:35:23   #
Handsome kitty!
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Jun 11, 2021 12:10:40   #
It happened to my mentor. He had a top brand 2 1/4 x 2 1/4. He was on the road with the camera in bag safely packed in the trunk.

For some reason, he needed something in the trunk and the camera bag was in the way so he put it on the top of the car. He found that thing and in his hurry left the camera bag on top of the car. Eventually it dawned to him what he did with the camera bag - he was not as lucky. He was so upset he never replaced the camera and got out of photography altogether.

Sad. decades later on a visit I tried to interest him in my Nikon DSLR and he was adamant that he wasn't interested. Mustive been a real shock to him to carry that loss around as long as he did.

What happened to him stuck with me. I NEVER put anything on top of my car and do a mental check list when I stop for any reason and am about to leave
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Jun 9, 2021 16:12:41   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
Al, consider a mirrorless body for your FD lenses. I inherited an AE-1 from a family member after not using my 1980s Canon T50 since sometime in the late 90s. This led to an investigation of 'what was the pro model in the 70s?' and getting an F-1 (new) and more FD lenses. Then an T90 for more of the automation. I was testing EOS film bodies at the same time that let me seamlessly share my EF lenses. When it got down to image to image compares at a per frame cost in film, I was getting much better results from the AF lenses / bodies than I could do with the FD lenses.

I ended up selling all the manual focus bodies and got to within a few mouse clicks of selling the FD lenses too. But, while I had been investigating FD candidate lenses, I was finding lots of examples of these lenses on mirrorless digital bodies. I decided to try a used a7II, a Sony full-frame 24MP mirrorless body. The FD to E mount adapter can be as cheap as $20.

The results have been amazing. It still takes some work to manually focus, but the "focus aid" of the mirror electronic view finder lets me "see" what / where I'm focusing better than any SLR / DSLR ever could. These FD lenses are just as good as anything AF and modern, but only when they're actually in focus. And, you can get them in focus when you can actually see the details.
Al, consider a mirrorless body for your FD lenses.... (show quote)


i might be getting in touch with you for more details. I have a HUGE collection of FD lens. I'd like nothing better than to bring my FD collection out from the closet to reuse them. Intriguing idea. Thanks
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Jun 9, 2021 07:49:44   #
medphotog wrote:
I "sealed the deal" with my AE-1 in the middle of an orthopedic case (I think it was a knee). The doc had one stolen and both his wife and parents bought him a replacement. He mentioned having 2 and was wondering what to do with the extra and I raised my hand. IIRC I paid $125. Now, back to the match needle... who remembers the Polaroid Swinger camera? You squeezed the sides of the shutter and it either sais yes or no for you shot. I never "technically" owned one. There was one in the department where I worked. After I got there I wanted to replace some of the equipment. It seemed Uncle Sam wasn't going to let me purchase "new" equipment at the time but I could purchase "replacement" equipment and seeing the Swinger was still on the inventory it got turned in for a Nikon F3T. (Supply folks weren't happy, but I followed the rules. Anyone that has dealt with the screwy rules they have for photographic purchasing with the government will understand. It's probably not as bad now, and it's certainly easier in the digital world)
I "sealed the deal" with my AE-1 in the ... (show quote)


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Jun 9, 2021 07:47:29   #
I think the underdog of match the needle was the Canon AV-1. It was an aperture priority camera. The trick was to match the needle to the shutter speed you wanted by moving the aperture ring on the lens. A very intuitive and easy procedure.

I got it for my daughter when she took the photography class in HS. later when she went to cell phone photography she gave it me 'cause it was spending most of its time in her closet.

I have to get back to using it with my FD lens collection. I'm all taken up with the the T90 these days.

Al
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Jun 8, 2021 18:44:31   #
BebuLamar wrote:
Now that you remind me of the AE1 that one doesn't have match needle.


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Jun 8, 2021 12:11:34   #
Ysarex wrote:
Minolta SRT
Pentax K1000
Canon Ftb
Retina Reflex III


Add to that from the fine Canon "A" series the AT1.

It is totally dependent on the battery unlike the Pentax K1000 which will operate without the match the needle exposure indicator, but it will take the picture.

All you need to know on the K1000 is typical settings for your film and set the aperture / shutter for the desired results - OR you can use an external light meter.
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May 26, 2021 11:36:01   #
katatl wrote:
The last time I was in Paris a few years ago I watched from my apartment window onto a side street in a relatively non touristy area as two male "tourists" got mugged as they walked down the street with cameras on their shoulders and shopping bags in their hands. The two crooks got their shopping bags and cameras. Unfortunately for the crooks, it was a sting as the tourists were cops who, after a couple of gun shots, ended up apprehending both of the bad guys. The lesson to me was, when you're finished using your camera put it back into a cross body bag and if you can, have you purchases sent to your hotel.
The last time I was in Paris a few years ago I wat... (show quote)


OH! I like these kind of "endings." Thanks. You made my day

Alan
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May 26, 2021 11:33:26   #
rcarol wrote:
There are camera straps that have a metal cable embedded in the core of the strap. Look for one of these.


That's a good idea. Any suggestions especially from BnH, Amazon etc. I generally carry my camera around using my right hand.

Again, suggestions appreciated, Alan
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May 25, 2021 13:47:20   #
I agree 100%
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May 25, 2021 13:42:36   #
TMcL wrote:
Thanks. I will look into it.


Dunno know if this product will work on photo paper. It is originally meant to work with film. BTW, I have found that Kodak engineers are some of the most enthusiastic support folks if you can get by the front desk.
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May 25, 2021 13:34:53   #
quixdraw wrote:
Before you do anything else, gently clean the exterior glass and get the best digital shots you can of the photos in place! CYA!




Another approach might be to scan the picture on a high quality scanner - have a friend scan it if you don't have one and are disinclined to get one. That might do the trick. Taking a picture of it might result in unwanted reflections or distortions.

I think a scanner might work better
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May 25, 2021 13:32:56   #
TMcL wrote:
This is a bit of a Hail Mary solution. If it fails, I’ve also lost the original!!


Well, experiment with a photo that if you lose it no harm done. Here's the way I would do it.

1) Take a photo that was stuck to glass and soak it along with the glass. Use room temp water. DON'T FORCE THE NEXT STEP

2) Work the photo off the glass.

3) Dry it on a drum drier - see this eBay example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224457460811?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200818141841%26meid%3D210c5f8ce7c54d4bbb473ecc721a9ab4%26pid%3D101111%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D254844255516%26itm%3D224457460811%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2563228%26algv%3DDefaultOrganicWithAblationExplorer&_trksid=p2563228.c101111.m2109

If this is a one of rescue, sell the drier on eBay when you are through with it.

Photo paper is wet during part of the process. If you don't force it, it might work. If a small spot does tear off, you might "heal" the scanned image and no one but the most astute observer will notice the spot.

Good Luck, Alan
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May 22, 2021 16:25:34   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
As DSLRs increase in MegaPixels (MP), larger high quality prints can be made from the larger and larger files created by these cameras. However, these larger files make it more difficult for the photographer to electronically share their images due to these ever larger file sizes. Big is good, but bigger is not always better when working with digital images. This post explains the process of resizing digital images specifically for online display and file sharing.

The documented limit to a single attachment in UHH is 20MB (MegaByte). The high-quality JPEG files created by sensors such as the Nikon D850 now exceed the UHH limit where the photographer will need to use software tools to resize their image under the 20MB size limit. Sharing these images via email to family and friends requires even more action to create files that can be sent using popular email systems such as GMail, YahooMail, etc.

Consider the pixel / megapixel dimensions of a few popular models based on a 3x2 aspect ratio:

Nikon

D850 - 8,256 × 5,504 (45.4 MP)
D7200 - 6000 × 4000 (24 MP)

Canon

5DIV - 6720 × 4480 (30.1 MP)
80D - 6000 × 4000 (24 MP)

This post was developed with input from several UHH experts. The topic is organized with background on the pixel resolution of digital images and high-resolution wide-angle displays. We've collected instructions for popular photo-editing software to demonstrate how to resize digital images for electronic sharing. Special thank you's to members jerryc41, Gene51, Bob Yankle, TheDmann and Rongnongno for help in pulling this together.

Display resolution of your monitor

Many of us are now using "Full High-Definition" monitors. These "FHD1080" screens display at 1920x1080-pixels based on a 16x9 ratio. An image cropped to exactly 1920x1080px will exactly fill the dimensions of the FHD1080 screen when viewed at 100%. Your 1920x1080 image on your 16x9 screen will display "full screen" at a 100% zoom.

But, what about your 3x2 images? The 3x2 image is the traditional ratio of a frame of 35mm film in landscape orientation. As shown for the DSRL models above, 3x2 is the native ratio of images coming from the sensors in these cameras.

The screen resolution determines how the digital image is displayed. The FHD1080 screen will automatically scale a "large" image to fit the shorter side of the display. If you maintain the 3x2 ratio and use editing software to resize the long-side of your image to 2048-pixels, the "long-size" is wider than the width of the FHD1080 monitor (2048px > 1920px). The "short-side" is also greater than the height of the FHD1080 screen, (1365px > 1080px).

Your 3x2 image, when resized to 2048x1365, will be dynamically resized to 1620x1080 when displayed on your FHD1080. Your 3x2 image "fills" the vertical dimension with some unused margins on the left and right sides (1620px < 1920px). At this point the image is slightly less than 100% as the shorter-side (1365-pixels) has been resized to fit the screen height of 1080px. Clicking on the image to zoom to 100% will "expand" the image to fill the left and right margins of the 1920px display, using a 100% crop of size 1920x1080 from within the larger image having dimensions of 2048x1365.

The example below shows a 3x2 image on the left and a 16x9 crop of the same image on the right, both shown on a 1920x1080 Full High-Definition monitor.

Dynamic Resize Example
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4661/40102332972_4ecc5371e6_b.jpg

Sharing Images on photo sites such as Facebook, UHH, Flickr, etc

When you've completed your edits on an image from your Nikon D7200 and now want to share the image, this is where resizing the image comes into play. How you resize the image depends on the intended use. You can crop the image to 1920x1080 for use on "modern" FHD1080 displays (modern as in circa 2018). When you select a crop using a 16x9 ratio, your crop will maintain the width of your original 3x2 image, but the top and bottom will be cropped from the landscape-oriented image. See the portions of the image “lost” from above and below the cat in the examples above.

An easier approach is to simply maintain the original 3x2 ratio and specify a length on the long-side that matches (or slightly exceeds) the FHD1080 display that uses 1920-pixels on the long-side. The left version of the cat with the "margins" shows a 3x2 image that nearly fills the FHD1080 screen using an image sized 2048px on the long-side. Although you've "oversized" the image, the 2048-pixel long-side is much closer to the screen dimensions for people viewing your image than attempting to send them a file with dimensions 6000x4000-pixels. Unless zooming into a crop of the image, the 6000x4000 image displays like the cat above on the left exactly the same as a file at 2048x1365.

Digital images on image-sharing sites are intended for full-screen display on high-resolution monitors. This usage applies equally to UHH attachments as well as high-resolution uploads to Facebook, Flickr, 500px and similar social media and image sharing sites. Facebook now supports a maximum of 2048-pixels on the long-side. Using 2048-pixels on the long-side allows some "zoom" into the details when viewed at 100% on an FHD1080 monitor. Using 2048px creates a file around 1MB to 3MB when saved to disk, depending on the source camera, whether the image is cropped from the original, and assuming 100% JPEG quality.

Resizing your display files to a standard 2048-pixels on the long-side is intended for general use and for all crop ratios, 4x3, 1x1, 16:9, and so forth.

Sharing images via email

Continuing to use the 2048-pixel length on the long-side, one can begin to adjust the JPEG quality. The goal is to lower the JPEG quality to reduce the file size as an attachment without lowering the quality of the image when viewed by the email recipients. Your friends / family using FHD1080 displays should receive an image that fills (or nearly fills) their screen when viewed.

Sharing a single image as a 1.5MB attachment should not cause undo delay for the email sender nor receiver. But, if you have multiple files to share, you should lower the JPEG quality to reduce the file size. Differences in the quality values from 99% to 80% typically cannot be seen by the human eye when displayed full-screen on an FHD1080 screen. The lower the quality value, the more compression is applied to the JPEG image creating a much smaller file. Below 80% one can begin to see degradation of the image when viewed full-screen on an FHD1080 display.

Creating images for other digital uses

Website design seeks to maximize the viewing experience for the site. Larger images render slower. The page / site Design Lead will specify the exact dimensions and quality settings for images on their site.

If you're interested in image-size recommendations for popular social media sites, visit Always Up-to-date Guide to Social Media Sizes using the link below in the section "Reference Links".

Is 80% Quality the best for all software?

The How-To samples, below, specify a common 80% quality. However, the compression engine specific to each software may differ from the results of others. Consider adjusting the quality value if your results differ when viewed full-screen on your display screen. Consider 5% changes in the JPEG Quality such as 85% or 90% or 95% until you determine the value best for your needs. You might also continue to lower the quality below 80%, again, as needed.

Impact of changes to JPEG Quality
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4619/39255604075_7e96086455_c.jpg

What are DPI / PPI?

Q: Does DPI / PPI affect the image display?
ANS: No

DPI - Dots Per Inch
PPI - Pixels Per Inch

A digital image has only a pixel dimension. The image file may report a DPI value of 72 / 96 / 250 / 300 / etc when the file properties are viewed from the operating system. The DPI value has no impact on how the file is displayed electronically. In the ReSize dialog of many softwares, the DPI does impact the image dimensions when resampling the image. However, for a given pixel size, changing the DPI / PPI value has no effect on the display of the image nor the file size when creating a JPEG. Note the pixel dimensions and DPI values for the files below.

DPI Examples
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4623/26265169038_64a77a2422_b.jpg

Images that appear larger when zoomed to 100% simply have a pixel dimension that exceeds the size of the display. This zoom effect is the result of the pixel dimensions, not the number of pixels per inch. Take an image with dimension 5760x3840-pixels, say a JPEG straight from a 22MP camera. If you zoom the original image to 100% on your FHD1080 display, you're simply viewing an 1920x1080 crop of the entire 5760x3840 image. The DPI value has no impact on the image as displayed. DPI values of 1, 10, 72, 96, 300, etc all display exactly the same. The DPI / PPI value has no effect on the display of the image nor the file size when created as a JPEG as long as you don't resample the image.

Why recommend 2048px for 1920px wide screens?

Simplicity. The 2048px image will fill / nearly fill today's popular screen sizes, regardless of device type, including phones, HD TVs, tablets, Macs and PCs. The idea is to pick an easy standard to create a single image file with the widest possible display-uses on current equipment. The 2048 recommendation is based to Facebook's current maximum size. Whether you use Facebook or not, the 2048 recommendation is useful as a general practice for current technology.

Although this write-up considers "Full High-Definition" to be 1920x1080, the vendors use a range of screen sizes covering similar sizes from 1920x1050 to 2560x1600. Using 2048-pixels as a general-purpose size, you've covered all expected display-uses on current technology.

More details are provided below in topic Why 2048 is the recommended size? in the section "Reference Links".

Where are the file dimensions specified in my software?

Below are resize steps for popular edit programs to specify the long-side of the image and the JPEG image quality.

1. Lightroom

The Export Dialog controls the image parameters, where highlighted.

Lightroom Classic Export
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4631/28354473929_699e57fd45_c.jpg

2. PhotoShop / PhotoShop Elements

Depending on the version of PhotoShop, you use either menu commands = File / Export / Save for Web or simply File / Save for Web. This approach is different than the Resize command.

Save For Web
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4628/26261343488_2b5b57896a_z.jpg

3. On1

Use the Resize module and Filter>Export to specify the pixel dimensions and JPEG quality.

On1 Resize and Export
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4608/39240621925_dd67d8d135_b.jpg

4. Infraview

Infraview Resize
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4676/40141084461_01b8dd0fe9_b.jpg


Reference Links

FAQ: What is PPI, DPI, XMP, EXIF, Etc.? A Brief Primer on Digital Photos

https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-286738-1.html

Resize vs Resample

https://www.photoshopessentials.com/essentials/resizing-vs-resampling/

JPEG quality

https://sirv.com/help/resources/jpeg-quality-comparison/

Always Up-to-date Guide to Social Media Sizes

https://sproutsocial.com/insights/social-media-image-sizes-guide/

Why 2048 is the recommended size?

https://photographylife.com/how-to-properly-resize-images-for-facebook
As DSLRs increase in MegaPixels (MP), larger high ... (show quote)


Then there is FastStone where you can tweak the compression to as much as 10% without an appreciable loss of quality. First you decide what pixal size you want and then you tweak with the compression. As long as you are working with JPGs.

Nice exhaustive presentation.
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