How did you do that on your 7D? My 7D manual and the pdf manual on the Canon web site don't show how to do that.

In most cases, the voltages on flashes from film camera days are not compatible with new digital cameras. Check carefully.

Sorry about that previous post. My long, winded attorney called just as I started and I hit send by mistake.

ETTR does not call for overexposing shots. No one is suggesting you put your histogram against the right side.

To understand ETTR you need to realize that your 'digital' camera is really just a digital storage device. The part that captures the image, the sensor, is analogue. The sensor captures the information using stops, the first stop is located on the far right of your histogram. 1/2 of all the information the sensor is capable of collecting is in that first stop. Going right to left each stop captures 1/2 the information of the previous stop.

You can prove this to yourself. Take a picture of your 18% gray card with the meter centered. If your camera is operating properly, your histogram will have a narrow peak located where? The center of the histogram. If the 18% value is in the middle, by exposing to the left you are giving up a lot of the sensor's capability and capturing information in the sensor's performance area where the SNR is very poor.

ETTR was first proposed by a software developer who thought he knew a little bit about getting the best from pictures. He wrote a program called Image Pro for processing digital pictures. Unfortunately that name was already taken so he changed the name to Photoshop.

ETTR

Please explain how that saves 3K.

Read this -

http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2015/03/just-the-lenses-the-great-200mm-shoot-out

That one stop is twice the light. In dark settings, where you can't use flash, fast lenses make a big difference. Having the right equipment to do the job certainly will make you a better photographer.

You tried to use autofocus to do video with a dslr. This is something most dslr's do poorly if at all. A couple of Canon's models with dual pixel technology do pretty good. There is a reason Adorama and B&H sell all those add on accessories to make a dslr function well as a video camera.

Since most people have no way to view 4K, how can they tell it rocks?

Bill's right. If you are doing in camera jpegs, picture styles are your quick and dirty answer. You can customize the ones in the camera or make up some of your own and save them in camera. Additionally, if you are shooting in raw, Canon provides you the software to create and save your own picture styles and use in DPP when doing your raw conversion. Besides the picture styles in your camera and DPP, Canon has more on their website that can be downloaded. You probably aren't the first person to want this look, so somebody probably has already made this picture style. Canon's DPP program is as good as any for doing initial editing and raw conversion. If you need to do more than it can do, you'll need to look for a good pixel level editor.

Sounds like a lot of hassle just to save a half pound of weight.

Reading more, I see what the trade off is. Using the GH4 you get the continuous video, but give up half the still picture resolution. Always sometihing.

Interesting work around. It doesn't really take a still picture, it just marks the video frame being exposed when you press the shutter button.

Okay. The on-line manual says nothing about regular video.

I wonder why the operating instructions say this -

Creative Video Mode (P64)
Records a motion picture with the aperture value and the shutter speed you specify. In this recording mode, all the motion picture functions become available. For example, you can record motion pictures in 4K (motion pictures with their size set to [4K] or [C4K] in [Rec Quality]).
* You cannot take still pictures.