I don't know how familiar you are with flash photography, but a DSLR has a fastest flash sync of ~1/250 sec which is slow for a high magnification lens. The flash is timed by the camera to fire while the shutter is completely open.

However, if the user sets the camera such that the exposure with ambient light is very low but, with the same setting, the exposure for the flash is good, you will have a decent flash photo. This requires using a strong flash, one with a high guide number as the GN is an indication of illuminating power. This works because the duration of the flash is usually of microseconds.

If you click "Quote Reply" under the post you are responding to as I did here, we can tell who you are addressing.

Not unique to Sony. Most cameras can do that.

The Canon PowerShot G5 X Mark II has pop-up one.

I don't have one for 2 reasons, 100mm (35 equiv) isn't enough for me, it has no viewfinder.

There are 2 types of mega-zoom, small cameras, the bridge and the portable. They can come with either of 2 sensor sizes, 1/2.3" or 1". The 1/2.3" allows for longer (higher magnification, more "reach") lenses, the 1" performs with less noise so is better in low light. Which is best for you depends on what you value most, portability, reach, price, or low light performance.

The Sony models are the most expensive, feature for feature. They are often spoken of as the best, but with menus less intuitive than others. I am not familiar with the Kodak offerings, the least expensive. I own 2 of the portable Panasonic Lumix and think they give the best bang for the buck. However, I do own a Canon bridge camera, the SX50 HS and think it is great.

I avoid models without a viewfinder.

You can compare different models here:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/products/Point-Shoot-Digital-Cameras/ci/8612/N/4288586279?filters=fct_camera-type_4056%3Aadvanced-compacts%7Csuperzoom-bridge

I, too, own an SX50 HS and can attest to its performance. It has a 50X lens (24-1200mm, (35 equiv)), pop-up flash and is quite portable. I took a great shot of the total eclipse from my home back in '17. I will keep it 'till it no longer works!

It is rumored that Canon will start to allow 3rd parties to sell lenses that are R mount compatible.

https://www.digitalcameraworld.com/news/canon-to-open-rf-mount-by-end-of-2023-will-finally-catch-up-with-sony-report?utm_term=D1539057-26CC-48AC-94C1-46B249136C8F&utm_campaign=75AC6D4F-39F0-41CB-A47C-7C5D939AC64B&utm_medium=email&utm_content=059A03B7-612C-419A-82DF-56232F6B5980&utm_source=SmartBrie

You need to click "Quote Reply" under the post you are responding to as I did here so we can tell who it is.

As for a larger screen, check here for monitors you can mount on your hot shoe:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?q=%20camera%20screen&sts=ma

If you click "Quote Reply" under the post you are responding to as I did here, we can tell which one it is.

I have a Canon EF 70-300 and a Sigma 18-300. The Sigma is on the camera most all the time. I had an old Sigma 18-250 but when I upgraded to an 80D it wasn't compatible, so I had to replace it.

As an alternate, while MPB and KEH are both good, so is B&H which also sells used as well as new. If you use their credit card (Payboo), they pay the sales tax.

I found Q to be my choice with my 80D, but no so on my R7.

Other brands like Tamron and Sigma have regular and high end models. The higher models are top notch, the regular are good. So far none have fully automated RF lenses for Canon's mirrorless cameras, but EF types with Canon's EF-RF adapters work fine.

If you use "quote reply" as I did here, we can tell who you are thanking.

Let's try this. Understand crop factor. As shown in previous posts, different size sensors "see" different portions of the image the lens can project to it. The smaller the sensor, the less of the total image it sees. This has the same effect as if you used a longer lens, or it makes it looked like the image was cropped. How much bigger the subject looks is the crop factor. We compare the standard 35mm "full frame" sensor size to that of the sensor in use. The Sony has a factor of 1.5 while the ZS50 has a crop factor of 5.5.

Now what a lens IS, vs how it appears, are different ways of expressing focal lengths. What it IS is the actual focal length. How much it appears to affect the field of view is the EFFECTIVE focal length. The actual focal length of the zoom is 18-135mm, but on a camera with a crop factor of 1.5 it has an EFFECTIVE focal length of 18*1.5 X 135*1.5 or 27 X 202.5mm.

The ZS50 rating of 24-720 is the EFFECTIVE focal length, not the actual which is 4.3-129mm. 4.3 X 1.5 is actually 23.65, quite a bit lower than 27.

The reason for the need of an adapter is the fact that the distance needed from the rear of the lens mount to the sensor is different for lenses designed for DSLRs vs those for mirrorless. This is probably due to the fact that there is no mirror, so the camera's lens mount is closer to the sensor.