yes...you have to keep your focus button pressed for it to track the bird. As soon as you let off - it will not focus again.
http://appleinsider.com/articles/14/06/27/apple-announces-it-will-no-longer-develop-aperture-or-iphoto-os-x-yosemite-photos-app-to-serve-as-replacement
Very nice - thanks for taking the time to write this up.
I usually get in a hurry and pop one out when needed, this will really help me by making a template to refer to.
Thanks again!
Set your camera on manual, ISO 100, shutter speed at 125th of a second, and aperture at f8. Then just wait, ignore your light meter, and focus on the moon. Use your most powerful lens.. But any will do, and don't forget the tripod :)
I think if you exposed for the moon properly(you are way over exposed) this would go away.
but don't forget, as long as you don't hit the focus button... You are in manual focus. No need to switch off auto focus. Another advantage of BBF, how quick you can alternate between manual and auto focus without dropping camera from your eye :)
mldavis2 wrote:
As an alternate suggestion, there are times when manual focus is better. I use the BBF on my Canon to approximate focal distance when shooting wildlife, then switch AF off and work with manual focus almost exclusively. Often when shooting moving targets (birds in dense foliage is a prime example), the AF is always hunting due to intervening branches fooling the AF as the camera tracks the target.
Another reason for MF is when trying to control DOF in a landscape for example. The "proper" focal point is about 1/3 distant from close objects to distant objects (assuming you want maximum focal depth sharpness), and the AF will not know that.
Manual focusing is a declining skill these days of fast AF cameras, and is well worth practicing instead of relying on the camera's point-n-shoot capabilities.
As an alternate suggestion, there are times when m... (
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I have never found a reason to go back, since I started using back button focus. I can see why they don't put that on a point shoot camera, but I wonder why in the world it doesn't come as a default on DSLR's?
Try camera on manual-on tripod-with remote if you have one..or set the self timer:
ISO 100 aperture /4 shutter 1/1000
As the eclipse covers more, you will have to slow down the shutter...to 1/500, 1/125, 1/60, 1/30...then in total eclipse you'll have to play in the 1 second to 2min range to find the best exposure --depending on how dark it is.
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html
Good place to learn off camera lighting
cheap triggers for off camera flash
TTL remotes http://www.hkyongnuo.com/e-detaily.php?ID=195
non TTL http://www.hkyongnuo.com/e-detaily.php?ID=338
E wrote:
.....when would i use the custom white balance in my camera and how?-my problem seems to be -getting correct white balnce when using my speedlight.
The only time I use the custom white balance is when I shoot JPG. It's also the only time I set camera styles...landscape, portrait etc...
If the picture is important (portrait) I always shoot RAW with a color checker passport in one of the photos. If it isn't so important ( I don't plan to do PP )...I shoot both RAW+JPG, then I'll set camera with a grey card and picture style.
Indoors, flash and mixed lighting is always a challenge. If the background is not important, (And your flash has HSS) speed up your shutter to darken it down-even go black. And don't forget if you have a white wall or ceiling nearby, you can turn that small flash into a huge lightbox.
I agree with rpavich, ambient light outdoors is not always that easy to overcome.Many times the shutter sync limitation is a problem.
I generally use ambient as my key, and my flash becomes the fill (cuts down the harsh shadows & puts a sparkle in the eyes). But if your subject is standing under a tree-with dappled light on their face, you want to at least match the 'key'.
mrtobin wrote:
Of course the ambient light will add to the overall exposure, but this will be read with the main light reading. I don't factor in the other lights except to measure the ratio of the different lights. If a persons face is lit on one side with the main light and the other side will not be then the fill just adds light to an otherwise "dark side".
One other thing ,for the op. Some times you will want the background light to be two, maybe three stops brighter than the main light, if you want a total white background.
But hey, that's just how I do it your mileage may vary:)
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Thanks mrtobin, Straightforward simple approach. I'm off to run some tests :)
mrtobin wrote:
I am probably am going to regret responding but here goes.
I just set my exposure to the main light. The fill, hair, back, and kicker lights do not factor into the exposure. you can use your exposure meter to measure the ratios between say, main light and fill light. But the exposure is based on the main light. I'm sure many others will disagree with me:)
So for an example, if you meter your main light and f8.0 is indicated then adjust the fill light until f4.0 or 5.6 is indicated this will be a 2:1 or3:1 ratio. But you set your camera to expose for f8. do not add 8+5.6=13.6.
So in short just set your exposure to your main light and use your meter to make sure the main light is the main light. The main light is the stronger, brighter light.
I am probably am going to regret responding but he... (
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Sometimes this works for me also....but problems come in because light is cumulative. I'm outdoors a lot so working with ambient. Equal amounts of light from ambient and flash will add one stop to your exposure.
Indoors, I think as long as your other lights don't "spill over" onto your main...your ok?
i.e...if my main light was on subject left, and fill was front ...I would protect those highlites on subject left and re-meter after adding fill.
An example;
If I set the fill flash to readout 1 stop lower than the ambient light (approx 33% fill light) and the total exposure will be about ½ stop higher than the ambient light exposure.
On your second question; Im not familiar with the Gossen, I use a sekonic meter, where it will measure ratios.
Maybe you should just set your main (/8.0) - then set your fill(reading from subject to Fill light)...Then take a reading from subject to camera for the average. (Let the meter do the math).
If I set my main light to /8.0, Instead of setting up fill for 1 ½ stops below, I would be looking at a percentage, like 30% fill, then I finish off by taking a reading to the camera. Pretty fast with not much fiddling afterwards.
Yes the /stop lets more light in..shutter speed can be increased to stop blur=Faster lens;
BTW, here is your old post, if you were looking to read over it again.
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-165495-1.html