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Posts for: Photographer Jim
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Aug 16, 2019 16:56:30   #
Linda S. wrote:
Hello again! According to the photography workshop recommendations, slot in filters don't cause vignetting and can be used on ultra-wide lenses.

I am bringing a Canon 5D4 and 5D2 (backup). The lenses are Rokinon 14mm, Canon 50mm, possibly Canon's 70-200 (but it is the 2.8 version, very heavy) and Canon 24-105. I plan on taking photos of the Northern Lights (if lucky), the ice caves (inside glaciers!!), waterfalls, street shots, and landscapes (in general e.g. the black beach as one example).

I know about ND filters and circular filters but have absolutely no knowledge about slot-in versus screw-on filters. If you use either type (or both), I would be very interested in hearing your comments. There are several brands.

Here is the link to the recommendations from the photo workshop: iceland-photo-tours dot com/articles/camera-and-gear-reviews/camera-gear-recommendations-for-photography-in-iceland

And here is a page that lists the "best"... https://camerajabber.com/best-filter-systems-2018/

Thank you in advance.
Hello again! According to the photography workshop... (show quote)


I too use both filter systems: circular screw-in for ND and circular polarizer, and slot in for my GND filters.

My screw-in filters are all mounted using Zume magnetic mounts. Each of my lens has a magnetic mount which I leave on permanently. Very convenient for easy and quick on and off (just remember to take a bit of care so as not to knock them off the lens accidentally. I carry a 3, 6, and 8 ⅔ stop filters.

For GND filters I use the Lee slot in holder recommended to you. All of my lens are Canon 72mm size, so I have the 100mm size holder and filters. They are generally sufficient for avoiding vignetting on all but my widest wife angle (16mm). The Lee holder is a good one. I found that I seldom used it with more than a single filter. The Lee holder allows you to take off and shorten the stack of filter slots if you want too. I shortened mine to a single slot. This eliminates even more of the vignetting possibilities. I also have the folder fitted with the Zume magnetic mount for convenience. I carry a 1, 2, and 3 stop GND filter.

Lee brand filters are very good, although I have both HiTech and a Cokin filter whose performance I have been satisfied with.

This setup has been quite adequate for nearly all situations where I need GND or ND filters.
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Aug 10, 2019 18:16:20   #
🍿 anyone else want some?
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Aug 10, 2019 18:16:20   #
🍿 anyone else want some?
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Aug 9, 2019 13:54:34   #
NatureRocks wrote:
....When images are cooked, however, that should be make explicit, so the viewer recognizes the nature of the process giving forth the final image. ....


This has always been a bit of a contentious point with me. Some of my images are pretty minimally processed; others are “cooked” to what many might consider extreme. Viewer are free to take or leave, like or detest, buy or not buy the images I create. But, I truly believe that as the creator of the image I have no obligation whatsoever to label, reveal, or explain the process used to make the image as a condition for offering it for viewing. (I might choose to have that conversation with persons who are interested, and would never be dishonest about the extent to which I have manipulated an image, but I don’t feel any necessity to make that info explicit unsolicited).
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Jul 18, 2019 15:18:08   #
Go to My Profile. Scroll down to General Account Information. Enter the info you want in Signature box. Click Update Signature.
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Jun 23, 2019 10:57:24   #
I sign in the white margin below my print with a pen with archival ink. When I make the print, the title and copyright info are also printed in that margin where it will be hidden by matting. Matted and framed pieces also get signed on the mat in the traditional spot just below the right corner of the image.

For what it’s worth, when I was first starting out I had some pieces accepted into a gallery. One early print I brought had my computer generated signature in the bottom corner. The gallery owner said that I should not do that on future pieces. “We sell art here, not posters”. A bit harsh maybe, but an attitude I found echoed in most other galleries and better shows. If you sign your work (which better places actually expect) sign by hand.
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Jun 4, 2019 17:46:11   #
Around Sedona (south of town) it’s a bit of a cliche shot, but shooting Cathedral Rock from Red Rock Crossing is one of those shots many photographers have on their bucket list. You can get a good shoot from the Crescent Moon Picnic Area, but it’s much more fun to wade out into the nearby creek and set up you tripod on one of the slick rock bars in the middle of the creek. You’ll be shooting east so best time of day will be late afternoon just about sundown. Watch your timing so you can get back to your car and exit before they lock the gates to the park.
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May 26, 2019 16:34:38   #
Sorry, double post
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May 26, 2019 16:34:38   #
For grad ND filters I use the larger Cokin Pro Z size in Lee filter holder. The filters themselves are Cokin and HiTech brands. For solid ND filters, I have a set of round, higher end Hoya filters.

All of my round filters and the Lee square filter holder are fitted with Xume magnetic mounts. This allows me to quickly mount or I mount filters without having to screw anything on, making the process very easy.
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May 1, 2019 11:28:22   #
Sorry, double post.
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May 1, 2019 11:28:22   #
macthemac wrote:
I have already used search to find a travel tripod. I am going to Glacier NP and plan to do lots of panorama possibly as much as 180degrees. Reviews indicate that the integral bubble level on the MeFoto is uselss with a camera mounted on the ball head. To avoid getting a jagged edge on the bottom of each pan do i need to buy a bubble level for the hot shoe?


You’re correct in that the tripod can be level but the camera on top of the ballhead may not be. Using a level in the hot shoe can be an effective way to get the best edges requiring the least amount of cropping once stitched. Most are pretty inexpensive. For a few bucks ($6-8 on Amazon) they can be helpful.
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Apr 27, 2019 12:00:22   #
Weddingguy wrote:
The purpose of bracket is to keep the source of light higher than the lens resulting in shadows falling more down and behind the subject than beside it. They work . . . with two caveats . . .

1) it does not change the harsh quality of the light from the flash . . .
2) it creates a very uncomfortable, unbalanced combination of camera/flash because of the weight of the flash being so far away from the camera. This is especially tiring when carried for hours at an event.

I have used several different models, all of which basically accomplish the same thing. I stopped using them about 10 years ago when I discovered the Lite-Scoops from Lite Genius. They keep the light source higher than the lens in both portrait and landscape modes . . keeps the flash in the hot shoe, so stays better balanced . . weighs about 60 grams . . improves the spectral highlights and softens shadows . . does not require a flash cord . . and costs about the same as a good bracket.

How's that for a rambling commercial???

Of course that is just my humble opinion.
The purpose of bracket is to keep the source of li... (show quote)


The OP is asking about L brackets, not flash brackets.
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Apr 27, 2019 11:07:36   #
I have an RRS L bracket on each of my camera bodies. I keep them mounted all of the time, as I shoot off of a tripod nearly 99% of the time. I find them invaluable. They allow me to switch back and forth between landscape and portrait orientation effortlessly, and without the risk of throwing my tripod dangerously off balance because I have the camera cocked over to one side rather than centered over the ball-head. I’ll never own a camera body without an L bracket.

The RRS brackets are a bit expensive, but their quality justifies their cost. Made to fit specific camera bodies, all ports, card slots, battery doors, are easily accessible without having to remove the bracket.
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Apr 26, 2019 12:18:14   #
LITTLEBIT wrote:
I agree wholeheartedly with you. Pictures being messed with making them look Surreal or like they've been painted instead of photographed. If you want a painting, take up painting. And I don't believe you were referring to the elimination of wires, trash, poles, etc. in a photo that interfere with nature in its God given state. But in the distortion given to a photo to make it look like a painting instead of a photograph.


A great many of my images are manipulated to have the look and feeling of an oil, watercolor, or illustration. Some have been amongst my best sellers. I understand not everyone may like my images, but my question is the same as I posed a few pages back. What justification is there for telling another photographer that the shouldn’t make images of this style.

Just to be clear, I have painted. Did so all through high school, college, and a good part of my life when I was without toddlers (four year olds and tubes of paint mix way too well). Many of those skills carry over to the editing/creating work I do on my Wacom tablet.

Truth of the matter is that despite having experience painting, I could not paint with the detail, textures, etc. that I am able to produce through processing and manipulation of a camera image. What is the justification for saying I should go do something else (paint) instead? I understand that different people have differing preferences for what images they enjoy looking at the most. However, for as long as I have been doing this, I have yet to have anyone provide a single VALID REASON for why I should limit my creative approach.

Ten Dead Soldiers


Along the Backroads

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Apr 23, 2019 20:35:30   #
The sand dunes just south of Florence Oregon (half way between Newport and Coos Bay offers some interesting landscape photography. Good access at Jesse Honeyman Memorial State Park.
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