boy am I going to be the outlier. I have a v600 and it is good for prints at 600 dpi but the resolution numbers it quotes for negatives and slides aren’t accurate. I believe the reason is they are interleaving but I am not sure but I do know talking to a professional scanning company I trust that is so. Also your negatives and slides should be at 4000 dpi minimally. I spent years scanning everything with the flatbed scanner using silver light. There were at least 2 things I learned - cull cull cull oh those are 3 things. I scanned everything and the flatbed scanners are not fast especially you using some of the advanced features like dust removal (don’t it makes your images soft). So I am in a current project where I am culling thousands of negatives and slides. When I am done I will either decide to have the scanning company do the scans or do it myself using a copy stand, mirrorless camera, macro lens and light source. So much faster, just make sure they are clean as possible. Good luck

One of the challenges with scanners is focus. The scanner lens is normally focused on the top surface of the glass bed, for sharp images of prints. But if you put slides in mounts in a slide holder, or negatives in a film holder of some sort, that raises them above the glass. Some scanners compensate for this, and some don't. A few, like the Epson V850, have two lenses, one for larger media placed on the glass, and one for smaller media in holders.

If you put a piece of film directly onto the scanner glass bed, experiment with whether it should be emulsion UP, or emulsion DOWN, for the sharpest focus. Do the same with slides and negatives in film holders. You can always flip the image in software, if needed to make it "right-reading."

Unfortunately, placing a negative on scanner glass "base side down, emulsion up" may lead to the appearance of Newton's rings. There is little that can be done to minimize that, short of using a film holder.

There are a few "height adjustable" film holders available on Amazon and from other dealers. These enable you to adjust the height of the holder ever so slightly, in an effort to achieve better focus.

I find the exact opposite to be true. I can scan a whole uncut 36 exposure roll in five minutes with the camera setup. If the film is in strips of six frames, add a few minutes.

With Negative Lab Pro 3.x, a plug-in for Lightroom Classic, I can have all the negatives' initial conversions done in another 10-15 minutes or so. Then they are ready for cull editing and fine tuning (cropping and spotting, masking, etc.) in LrC. I've done thousands of them this way.

I cut my teeth copying film to film in the 1980s for slide shows. Then I ran a high volume digital scan lab in the early 2000s, scanning several million portraits each Fall on nine long roll Kodak Bremson HR500 scanners (on three shifts, with three operators per shift, each running three scanners). So I'm very sensitive to anything that slows me down. The V600 was slow as molasses. It was fine for 120/220, but camera scanning is still faster.

In which case, mounting them on card stock and photographing them with a macro lens using a high CRI video light panel* works great. 25 years ago, when we did optical printing in the lab, all cut negatives were mounted on peg-registered cards with apertures in them that corresponded to various sizes of negatives and the printer lens decks needed to print them. While they are no longer made, you can design your own, print outlines of the format size on them with a laser or inkjet, then cut out the center of each format with a single-edge razor or X-Acto knife. We used a mylar tape to attach the negative to the side of the card facing the light source, and the emulsion side of the film facing the lens.

*Light source must be diffused with milk Plexiglass or Perspex.

Those with Epson V-800 and V850 scanners can get holders for film up to 4x5, sold on the Internet (Amazon).