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Aug 29, 2019 09:41:41   #
I cut the holes so that they are on the bottom when mounted to the Canon lens. Left is the 70-200 f/2.8 and the right is 135mm f/2.0

ollie wrote:
I don't use the filter with a lens hood. I wouldn't be able to adjust it if I did


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Aug 28, 2019 19:19:22   #
bleirer wrote:
I did not know that. I assumed same focal length would give similar results.


This gives some more information that explains lens design differences, that can lead to a mixed bag of results with different lenses. Not all focal lengths are created equal...

https://www.edmundoptics.com/resources/application-notes/imaging/sensor-relative-illumination-roll-off-and-vignetting/
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Aug 28, 2019 16:08:54   #
imagemeister wrote:
The safe approach is to use a step up adapter ring with a larger THIN CPL...and they ARE available.
.


Exactly... so not to catch the corner depth of the filter.

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Aug 28, 2019 09:46:41   #
bleirer wrote:
Not trying to argue, but I just now tried it on a blue sky, shooting Canon full frame with an RF24-105 at 24, 77mm thread, with a 77mm Nikon CP, no sign of vignetting even at full mag. I must be missing something?


All lenses are different, the Canon 35mm, 50mm, 135mm primes, 16-35, or 24-70 all have no issues. The RF may not also...

It will happen at the wide end, wide open in low light if it does.

I do 99% of my work with polarize filters...
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Aug 28, 2019 07:47:24   #
bleirer wrote:
The OP stated he removed the UV filter, so wasn't stacking, which made me think there might be another cause.i don't know Nikon. Is that a lens that might have some vignetting?


You will need to use an adapter and go at least two sizes bigger for a filter. The same thin will happen even on a Canon 70-200 at 70mm when you use the 77mm screw in filter... you are basically shading the corners, and not getting a negative affect from the filter.

The wider the lens. the larger the CPL will need to be. A Canon 11-24mm requires a 186mm filter for an example on the extreme.

Stacking filters will amplify the problem.
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Aug 27, 2019 18:56:03   #
I left a message for the Band "Lords of 52nd street" (ex Billy Joel) via face book with a screen shot of the original post.

It will be interesting If I get a reply... I would think the Band would step in and repair the damage.
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Aug 27, 2019 03:36:52   #
And it goes on and on...

This is an advertisement on a news media board for a photo posted for sale by a promotional company. It was submitted by ether the photographer, or band and looks to be part of an agreement for the submission.

... the legal fees would exceed the value of a print of this unknown local band in less than one hour of consultation.
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Aug 26, 2019 19:05:23   #
This whole thing is odd ...

The link supplied to the photo is to a news company called "News Times.com". The advertising tab is open to a running add for the parent company "My Capture inc." They are a promotional company.

You must have submitted the photo into a contest type, promotional contract, or the band did so with or without you knowing.
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Aug 26, 2019 12:13:55   #
I do not see anything on your bio to indicate you are a professional? Is this a one time thing on a single image?

Can you post the image with the watermark for an opinion on the value?
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Aug 26, 2019 08:13:27   #
Is this a major Band, big money?

You seem to know who is selling... so how much money, and who is publishing it?

If your name is on it, your exposure will be worth overlooking it, and not being a source of grief will be a gain, rather than a detriment to future clients.

Value more what you can produce now, not what you have done in the past. It's easy to make a few calls, but making friends has far greater value than making enemies.
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Aug 24, 2019 15:29:04   #
late_show wrote:
I am getting a one-time, probably 10-minute access to standing in the 4th turn at the most famous race track on earth. I need a panoramic shot. I plan to take many photos from a tripod with the camera on its side and panning from left to right, using a timer delay for each shot to avoid movement. I have a Nikon D7500 with 3 lenses: Nikkor 35mm f/1.8 G, Nikkor 18-55mm 3.5-5.6 G, & Nikkor 70-300mm 4.5-6.3G. I'm really wishing I had a wide angle lens right now.

My goal is to get a great photo of this track, including its famous scoring column, which will be about 5/8 mi. away from me. I will PhotoShop out the infield area and replace it with a softball field. I will put home plate and a batter's box onto the asphalt in front of me, onto which I will also place the softball players from my daughter's team (cut out from green screen photo shoots). The resulting photo will be used for their team banner for the upcoming season. (Our team has a special connection to this famous track.)

What should I do to guarantee excellent photos that I can stitch together?
1. I assume that I want the aperture to remain constant. What f-stop do you suggest?
2. How far out should I make my focal point? I would like the track in front of me to be in focus because the players will be placed there. I could always take a separate photo of the distant scoring column and place it if I needed to.
3. Do I keep my ISO constant and make my only variable be the shutter speed?
4. Should I attempt to take HDR photos and stitch them together?
5. What other advice do you have for me?

Thank you SOOO much for your help!!! I have attached last year's banner to get your attention.
I am getting a one-time, probably 10-minute access... (show quote)


Here is something to help get the best image possible...

https://www.reallyrightstuff.com/eliminate-parallax
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Aug 22, 2019 06:29:02   #
Your color grading and shadow detail are absolutely superb. Great Work!

(Too bad your post was hijacked with what looks like cell phone images)
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Aug 21, 2019 06:45:55   #
Try a combination,

Use a mask and gradient from corner to corner with the two stacked images when editing... use the "blend if" shadow slider (lower slider to the right) to hide the shadows.
I do this often to add color contrast and realism to blend warm highlights, cool shadows, across the image from the light source. A flat color cast look of warm orange or yellow is not all that appealing. Color contrast can add a sense of direction and realism to the edited result.
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Aug 21, 2019 06:37:02   #
ISO 500, and a shutter speed at 3200...?

As for me... f5, ISO 200, and the shutter could go as low as 100 or even lower than that (with image stabilization). all depends on what I need for motion blur. There are good charts that

At f 20 your actually reducing sharpness and 3200 is overkill. ISO 500 in sun is a waste of shadow detail.

Recomendations:

Quote

"For jets, aperture priority works best. f/5.6 to f/8 and let the camera deal with shutter speed. For propeller planes, use shutter priority with a speed of 1/25 second to 1/125 second so the props blur and the aircraft look like they're really flying, not hanging from a string."

https://www.nikonusa.com/en/learn-and-explore/a/tips-and-techniques/taking-great-photographs-at-airshows.html
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Aug 20, 2019 08:49:26   #
TriX wrote:
👍👍 my reaction as well. Too many contradictory and simply wrong statements to know where to begin...


Showing teeth as usual...

Fun to engage, and hopefully get the real information out. The comments never stop amazing me...
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